The stock OBD1 knock sensors are terrible wired in as part of normal ECU knock control strategy. Its why most tuners remove/disable them in the software before tuning, they are tempermental.
They'll cause the ECU to retard timing for the dumbest noises that can just be part of normal operation.
Just load up the Y7 basemap, run good quality 93, and adjust timing curves from there, checking plugs regularly. You wont have issues on 93 even at your comp ratio increase with stock Y7 curves.
For power gains beyond Y7 map, compare your map to other stock performance oriented Honda maps and their base timing curves, both in and out of VTEC, to give you ideas on what is relatively safe.
Check out the Y8 non VTEC and VTEC timing curves. Those are a great starting point for peak timing/RPM to blend into your Y7 non-VTEC map. You should be able to go 1-2 degrees higher than the stock Y8 curves without much fuss on 93.
You also shouldnt run into knock on 93 staying close to the Y8 peak timing/RPM realm, so long as your IATs are in check and you respect the curve, meaning dont throw 35 degrees at it at 1500rpm lol.
If you get it running good with Y8 realm levels, you can begin to look at B series timing curves. B series VTEC engine timing curves are more agressive, throwing more timing into the mix sooner and lower in the RPMs than our D series maps do.
The reason for this is architecture centric, D series use 75ishmm pistons, B series run 81ishmm pistons. Doesn't sound like a whole lot of difference, but the additional surface area of the piston allows for additional cylinder pressures to get the piston accelerating faster, and moving out of the way, in a shorter period of time. This trait helps prevent knock in comparison to the D architecture.
Compare B to D, and see where the timing begins to come in, comparatively speaking. Work your way up slowly, again keeping a close ear out, as well as reading plugs.
She should be a ripper, so long as you have a cam that can provide enough airflow.
