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Discussion Starter #1
The car was running ok, but after about an hour it would slip out of gear and wouldn't go over 20mph. After checking the codes and having a good once-over, our mechanic friend advised us to replace the camshaft sensor, the crankshaft sensor, water pump, oil pump and the whole timing setup. The timing was way off when we opened it up. We put the car up on jackstands. We have now installed all of the new parts (checking and rechecking the timing after every single part went on) and put the car back together. Now she won't start. Checked compression. Compression is good. We've got spark. We just can't figure out why she's no longer getting fuel.
 

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That seems a bit excessive...

Any codes? Did you use OEM sensors? Honda’s (D17’s especially) do not cooperate with aftermarket sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yeah. He said it was a code he'd never seen. P1361. So we Google it and got 2 different answers. One said camshaft sensor the other said crankshaft sensor. He recommended all of it because the car has over 100k miles on it AND because we just bought it and didn't have a maintenance record on it. I'm assuming they were OEM parts. We usually get everything from Auto Zone.
 

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crank sensor might not be plugged in, or it is not sitting all the way in its spot. it goes into the oil pump and must sit all the way down. road sludge and grime collects there and can make it sit out of spec to read the crank gear
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Turned out we bent 4 intake valves by not setting the compression before we took off the old timing. Problem solved. Just gotta wait now.
 

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Turned out we bent 4 intake valves by not setting the compression before we took off the old timing. Problem solved. Just gotta wait now.
That is a very odd statement. Sounds more like someone who was in charge of assembly incorrectly timed the engine during reassembly, and tapped a few valves with a few pistons when they went to start it :)
 

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Turned out we bent 4 intake valves by not setting the compression before we took off the old timing. Problem solved. Just gotta wait now.
your first post says you checked compression and it was good. 4 bent valves would not allow that statement to stand correct.

What is the ACTUAL current status? compression, spark, fuel pressure, etc...?


Seems there is a lot going on.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
At first there was compression and no fuel. After trying to start it multiple times on the wrong stroke, we bent the valves. Hence, no compression. Figured out the fuel issue too. It sat for 4 days with the front end on jackstands.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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doesn't the fuel pump prime before you attempt to crank it? what does it sitting have to do with a pump, pushing fuel to the rail? or is it carbed?
 
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Discussion Starter #10
doesn't the fuel pump prime before you attempt to crank it? what does it sitting have to do with a pump, pushing fuel to the rail? or is it carbed?
Honestly, idk. We'll probably have to replace the fuel pump too. But no, not carbed
 

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Fuel pump primes during key on, gauges lit.

If you have a green key icon blinking, the IMMO is blocking fuel pump running.

If it even so much as farts during multiple attempts at starting, the IMMO system is happy and the car is genuinely trying to start.

you really need to check valve lash adjustment and mechanical timing again if it is abrely farting trying to start though.



Cam sensor going bad will not effect ability to start, but teh crank sensor going bad certainly can.
 
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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Try a different key, assuming you have more than one, see what happens
 

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key the ignition on, wait for the check engine light to disappear. Does the green key light go away also?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you guys for all of your help. All of your advice was spot on. I've now had this car about a month and she's now running better than when I got it. Sensors were definitely bad, timing was off, burnt oil was in the oil pan and in the oil pick up, all 16 valves were bent, 2 motor mounts were bad, cv axle was barely hanging on, and the ball joint on the passengerside was shot. After 6 days of tearing everything down and replacing what was bad, she really purrs!!
 

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D17 engines really do run well. Partly due to the more modern fuel injectors, and partly due to teh aggressive ignition versus the old D15/D16 systems.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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I hated the d17 until I bought my wife an 03 lx that I had been maintaining since 60,000. Its still going strong today, after a valve job and headgasket at 193,000, its got 273,000 on it now and still purrs right along. Its just all about taking proper care of it, oil and filter every 5,000, valve lash adjustment every 60,000, plugs every 80,000 or so, dont cheap out, stick with laser platinum ngks. Keeping the ground system in good repair is a must as well.
 
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