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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I'm having an issue with my d16y8 (2000 civic ex). just finished putting my engine back together with a different head. used OEM head gasket and cleaned the surfaces of the head and block with a 3m bristle disc. the engine started up but I'm having no compression on cylinder 2. other cylinders were c1-180 c3-210 c4-210. I know that's a bit of a discrepancy but I rebuilt the block myself awhile ago with a ball hone (new rings and bearings as well). I put some compressed air into cylinder 2 with it at TDC but it doesn't seem to be leaking anywhere. I haven't adjusted the valves yet but they don't seem to be too tight or loose. I will have a go at adjusting them but I feel like that's not the issue. (I could be 100% wrong).

any insight into what my issue could be? the reason I replaced the head was because on my old head two of the rockers were too tight/loose and damaged the top of the valve stems. money is tight right now so I can't really get another head gasket and try to fix my other head. the engine was also pressurizing the coolant slightly from what I presumed was a bad head gasket. (I used a cheap one last time I had it apart.)

Thanks for the help. here's a picture of the damaged valve.
137945
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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How do you know air isn't leaking out of cyl#2 when you air it up?

How did you confirm 0 PSI compression on #2?

If it really is 0, it's going somewhere...

Also, good rule of thumb, anytime you take a cylinder head off and put it back on, ALWAYS readjust valve lash once the head gets torqued down.

Never assume lash is correct without measuring. The aluminum warping during torquing will cause lash adjustments to change ever so slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply.

for the leak test I hooked up my air compressor at 100 psi to cylinder #2 at tdc. the gauge on the air compressor was not going down nor could I hear air escaping anywhere (intake, exhaust, oil dipstick, radiator cap bubbles)

I did a compression test and that's how I got 0 psi on that cylinder. tried to adjust the valves on that cylinder but no change. same with putting some oil in the cylinder. You're right about doing a valve adjustment. I just wanted to try and start the car after I got it put back together and it sounded like it was down a hole just from cranking it. manually turning the engine over with the valve cover off I could see all the rocker assembly moving as it should. also reset mechanical timing a few times.

I went ahead and pulled the head. managed to get the intake off first which is always a plus. head gasket looks new still. inspected the valve springs on that cylinder and they looked fine. same with the underside of the head. block looks good too, she spins over real nice as well. the only thing I saw was the threads on cylinder 2 were kind of chewed up.

I'm pretty stumped on what it is or what I should do. (neither head or the block has been professionally gone through/leveled) compression was normal before rebuilding. Snapped some pictures:
IMG_0710.JPG IMG_0712.JPG IMG_0713.JPG IMG_0714.JPG IMG_0715.JPG IMG_0716.JPG IMG_0718.JPG IMG_0720.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
turns out one of the exhaust valves on cylinder 2 was bent. hard to tell from the pictures but when I removed the valve it was for sure bent. I'm not sure why the leak down didn't show anything.

I ended up replacing the valves on my head that were damaged with ones from the extra head. (that's when I noticed the bent valve). reused the head gasket for now, I'll definitely order another OEM when I can. did a proper valve adjustment. It's running good now, no ticking from the head.

Thanks for the help.
 

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did you lap the valves? there is zero point in changing the valve and then running the head without actually making it SEAL to the head.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yea I did a quick lap with some grinding compound. I'm probably going to get the spare head fixed up and put it back on once I get another head gasket. I'm just glad it's drivable again.

Put my Konig wheels that were on my Miata on the Civic for the heck of it. thanks for the help guys.
bentvalve.jpg wheels.jpg
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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The leak down didnt show anything cause you forgot to pull the Schrader valve out of the compression attachment likely, ive seen 30 year mechanics scratching their heads when their new compression tester set is different, as I myself have as well. Lol.
 
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