I had to fab up a crank trigger wheel and a bracket to hold the VR sensor. All I can say is that was an experience I don't wanna experience again, lol.
But anyways as for the civic swap this has became kinda of another experience as that just not as intense. I have just wasted time on it do to this tranny. I also was looking where the main harness wires in to the cabin harness, where it plugs in by the transmission pcm, its missing some wires on the main harbess side. I guessing the missing wires are for the rear power windows and locks. So, the HX main harness wouldn't work anyway if I ever want my locks/Windows to work.
Sorry for the long message brotha but let me know if you wanna chime in on this thing I call a swap hahahah. Thanks for your time and for reading my worthless message lol
As for my original intentions, I did have any but asking for the easiest possible way to get this swap done and car on the road. I was intending todo anything that was faster and easiest also cheapest too. I know I really didn't want to rewire anything because that is the hardest thing I really hate to do. I would do everything else to avoid that, even with me paying a little bit of money to not do it, haha.
I have done it once before and it sucked badly with it taking months to finish doing it without wiring diagrams do to them not being available because it was a JDM engine that wasn't as a common swap as honda swaps. I wired an engine harness for my toyota tercel for an engine from a toyota Sierra and using Ford EDIS ignition and a megasquirt II v3.0 standaline ecu. It was turboed and I had to wire it all up and program a base map from scratch since there was none available for this setup. For that whole swap took me 6 months day and night to get it running.
With me having to do all this stuff all over again I am loosing big time. Means I wasted my time on all the original work I did with main harness and all. So, this swapped sucks times one hundred. with as much time I have put into this swap I could have a y8 with manual transmission and have a fun car... but nope my luck (always bad) had to show its face and screw me over. I thought since buying a whole car to use it would be a pretty straightforward swap and wouldn't have been as messed up as it just startes to be when this happens. Regardless me only spending $550 and driving 2 hours towing it back for the donor HX Civic coupe.
I posted on my showcase thread of this if you wanted to read that post.
As for the rep I gave ya I don't remember exactly what I said or gave ya. What did I give ya and say? Sorry for this late reply. I just now seen this message. I will explain what I meant if I knew what I gave ya and all.
I have took off the cable from lever on transmission and cable and shifter works as it should. I try to shift the transmission lever manually by hand and doesn't budge at all. With it not able to move an inch and car still rolling even though its in park, I believe the transmission is a goner since these transmissions arn't so good in the first place with them knowen to go out and be POS's.
I'm thinking if transmission is locked up and gone I'm going to have to swap it out with the y7 transmission. If I do this I will have to put back LX main harness and use the y7 engine harness. Doing this I am going to have to use y7 ecu, lose the vtec-e and lean-burn function. With loosing the vtec-e i'm loosing valves which in return it becomes a slower engine than the y7, correct? Since I will be loosing the CVT tranny, lean-burn and vtec-e I loose my benefits I wanted in the first place, mpg and vtec (little bit more power).
Well, after I installed all coolant/vacuum lines along with the CV axles and shifter cable the transmission won't shift out of park. The car also rolls with engine off and transmission stuck in park. I have to use the parking brake just so the car won't roll down ny driveway, hahaha..
Not sure what you mean? If you were just removing the dash harness and that's all, then it would have been faster than what you did regardless = dash harness being easier to remove.
Also your original intentions were multiple times harder than what you ended up doing. Tracing wire, basically unwrapping at least one whole complete harness in general and so-on is tedious and gets messy/confusing.
You're also lucky the main harness wasn't set behind the garbage the EG main harness goes behind. Heater core was removed and then the sound deadening. After the main harness is removed, my whole front interior was literally bare.
Maybe your tone don't show through the rep comment, but there was no "Thanks" so I'm drawing a blank. But whatever the case is, I'm happy you were able to figure it out. I'm hard on people because I want them to think for themselves. You didn't even end up wasting money like you originally anticipated. Congrats.