Passenger axle on crx broke - D-series.org

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Old 06-29-2018, 08:42 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Passenger axle on crx broke

What would have caused a new axle on a shake down run break? Also which axle on a crx is the main drive?
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Old 06-29-2018, 09:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Which part of the axle broke.

Does shake down mean slicks, anti-lag launch.

Are the motor mounts and suspension components tight?
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Old 06-29-2018, 09:33 AM   #3 (permalink)
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No slicks, motor mounts don’t seem to be as tight as they can be, it broke the joint closest to the transmission. This is a dirt track car, and I just got the chassis and seat squared away for shake downs which is just runs looking for broke shit
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Old 06-29-2018, 09:35 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Also, once it broke I couldn’t drive at all, which is why I was wondering why I couldn’t still move on the driver side axle
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Old 06-29-2018, 09:59 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Because you have an open dif, and that is how they function.
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Old 06-29-2018, 12:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I figured it was open, that makes sense why just the right side is the drive side
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Old 06-29-2018, 12:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The wheel bearing on that side is pretty wobbly, do you think it could have caused it to bind up?
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Old 06-29-2018, 03:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The right side isnt the drive side. Open diff means it spins the axle which has the least resistance, or in easy terms, least traction.


This is why you want to lightly use the brake when in low traction conditions, as it keeps the power somewhat even, especially in icy conditions
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Old 06-29-2018, 04:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I just checked out your showcase thread.

There's not alot of metal left on the car to keep everything from twisting in every direction, combined with a wheel bearing that could be seizing up...

I'd start with a wheel bearing and then some bracing.

Did it snap or did the axle pop out of the cup.
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Old 06-29-2018, 08:38 PM   #10 (permalink)
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It didn’t snap shaft, but hard to tell how it malfunctioned, but certainly at the cup
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Old 06-29-2018, 08:50 PM   #11 (permalink)
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There’s not a whole heck of a lot that can go wrong with CV axles.

I’m thinking that maybe one of the CV joints slipped apart. I’d start by jacking the car up and pushing/pulling on the hub/knuckle to see if there’s unusual movement.

Check the driver and passenger mounts to see if the engine is shifting left/right.

Of course a seized wheel bearing would cause a major issue but you’d probably notice if a wheel wasn’t spinning...and usually bearings don’t just lock up like that.
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Old 06-30-2018, 03:40 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I got the axle out, I’ll put new wheel bearing and axle in when I get off work and try again. I’ll call these situations space shuttle disappointments...I check and double check and triple check and when it’s time for launch you’re thinking nothing can go wrong.......
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Old 06-30-2018, 08:56 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Do you have the old axle that gave up originally?

Compare sizes/lengths.

autozone and oreillys in past have given me axles that were for another chassis.


EF, EG, and EK all use different axle lengths, even if its under an inch difference in some cases.

Ive had an axle that was 1/8 inch shorter cause problems at stock ride height and occasionally pull out, but after lowering same vehicle, had far less incidents
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Old 06-30-2018, 10:33 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I don’t have the other axle, it was a skinny hf axle though. I’ll have the electronics bay seller send out another shaft, and just do more testing before going balls out I guess
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Old 08-10-2018, 06:37 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Chinese parts are always questionable in the "metal" that they use.
You might consider buying a high quality axle, like Honda OEM or Raxles that will last much longer if it's more than just a dd.
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