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Old 06-07-2015, 10:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Possible to replace mounting stud?

For some reason, I only have 1 of the 2 mounting studs present on my jdm tranny. These are the 2 that go through the tranny mount.

I have some spare cases. Is it possible to somehow remove the stud from another case and screw it in here? I tried using vice grips and it wouldn't budge.

Should I just use a bolt instead. Anyone know what size bolt?
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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make sure threads inside are clean and junk-free.

Find another mounting bolt. Be sure to use a washer if bolt is close to bottoming out.

99% of the time on a honda, if the hole is the same size, its the same threading.

Or you can find another stud and use 2 nuts tightened against each other, and majority of time it pops the stud out without screwing the threads up, unlike vicegrips
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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96-00 only have the one stud in the rear. You can buy the stud from Honda, expect a week wait, why I bought 5.

Now if you use too long of a bolt it will punch a hole through the case...
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
make sure threads inside are clean and junk-free.

Find another mounting bolt. Be sure to use a washer if bolt is close to bottoming out.

99% of the time on a honda, if the hole is the same size, its the same threading.

Or you can find another stud and use 2 nuts tightened against each other, and majority of time it pops the stud out without screwing the threads up, unlike vicegrips


Thanks Matt. I'll try using the two nuts or finding another mounting bolt.

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Old 06-07-2015, 11:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by transzex View Post
96-00 only have the one stud in the rear. You can buy the stud from Honda, expect a week wait, why I bought 5.

Now if you use too long of a bolt it will punch a hole through the case...
Thanks Bone. I'll measure the depth and make sure I don't use too long of a bolt. I'll also see if I can find that part number for the stud.

Thanks,
Ryan
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I think the part number might be:


90380-SR3-000

Bolt, Stud (12X55.6)
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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if you got a local junkyard, hit that up for a bucket of engine/tranny/suspension bolts

You can never have enough bolts laying around.

quick and dirty hole depth finder is simply a screwdriver, finger on the shaft level, and make sure bolt is at least 1/4 inche shorter to account for debris in hole, and thermal expansion.

If you find you only have a very short bolt, a TINY bit of red threadlock will hold it fine, but be a pain to remove. you have been warned lol Anything more than a drop can yank threads out in aluminum
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
if you got a local junkyard, hit that up for a bucket of engine/tranny/suspension bolts

You can never have enough bolts laying around.

quick and dirty hole depth finder is simply a screwdriver, finger on the shaft level, and make sure bolt is at least 1/4 inche shorter to account for debris in hole, and thermal expansion.

If you find you only have a very short bolt, a TINY bit of red threadlock will hold it fine, but be a pain to remove. you have been warned lol Anything more than a drop can yank threads out in aluminum
The stud I installed was in a case that had been punched through, three drops of red threadlock means it is never coming back out or leaking.
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
if you got a local junkyard, hit that up for a bucket of engine/tranny/suspension bolts

You can never have enough bolts laying around.

quick and dirty hole depth finder is simply a screwdriver, finger on the shaft level, and make sure bolt is at least 1/4 inche shorter to account for debris in hole, and thermal expansion.

If you find you only have a very short bolt, a TINY bit of red threadlock will hold it fine, but be a pain to remove. you have been warned lol Anything more than a drop can yank threads out in aluminum


Thanks Matt!
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Old 06-08-2015, 12:44 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Ok. So I was able to extract the bolt from the doner tranny using 2 nuts. I extracted the stud that I had not yet chewed up with the vice grips. I measured the stud and the hole just to make sure. I had a little help from the impact. I put red locktight so they shouldn't be coming out.

Now I am off to bed since its almost 4AM and I have work tomorrow.

Thanks again for all the help Matt and Bone!
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Old 06-08-2015, 12:44 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks Bone!
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Old 06-08-2015, 07:06 AM   #13 (permalink)
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The double nut method is awesome, I use it when I do intake/exhaust studs.
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Old 06-08-2015, 11:30 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Rent a stud socket from your local parts store and you'll remove the stud without a problem and not damage it
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Funny enough, Honda did a writeup on how to do that because it is one if the most difficult things to do to...
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Old 06-08-2015, 03:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Rent a stud socket from your local parts store and you'll remove the stud without a problem and not damage it

Thanks for the tip!
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:25 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Used the double-nut technique many a time to remove bad studs for better ones. Only once did I come across a trans of mine that had a hole stripped so badly that a new stud would have been useless. In which case, time for a helicoil or better yet, a timesert.
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Old 06-17-2015, 01:47 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Interesting. Thanks for pointing that out. I just read about the timesert. I was not familiar with that product line for thread repair.
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Old 06-17-2015, 02:44 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The double nut method is awesome, I use it when I do intake/exhaust studs.
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