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Old 06-07-2015, 03:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Gear Alignment between mainshaft and countershaft

P4A-A000 JDM - trying to figure out what I did wrong.

After rebuild and mock assembly, I was not able to switch into 5th/reverse and tranny had no neutral (stuck in 5th). The gears looked misaligned also. I ensured the ISB was fully seated and that the countershaft snap lock ring was engaged as some other threads suggested. So I tore down the tranny again and re-pressed everything on the mainshaft.

Does the gear alignment shown in all the pictures normal? No matter how I line them up next to each other, it seems that some of the gears stick off the edges a bit. I'm not sure if any gears will hit the other gears next to them or not.

Also, I had measured the clearances between gears, but this was before I tore it down again.
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Old 06-07-2015, 05:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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there is another thread where the tranny guru mentioned spacing. give it a quick search in the trans area
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Old 06-07-2015, 07:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by slo_eg8 View Post
there is another thread where the tranny guru mentioned spacing. give it a quick search in the trans area
Thanks Slo_eg8. I will search for it. If it helps, I measured the shim requirements using both the case gap method and the method in the helms. Both indicate that I need a smaller shim than the tranny had originally. I need to change from the original 65mm shim (which was either 1.14mm or 1.26mm - not sure as I have parts from 3 trannys and mixed up the shims) to a .99mm. Is it normal for this to change this much if I only changed the bearings. I'm thinking I might have done something wrong.

Thanks. I'll go search for the spacing thread.
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Old 06-07-2015, 07:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I meant about the gears lining up, but Im sure bone has mentioned it before, if not, he will mention it eventually.
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Old 06-07-2015, 08:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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If the ISB is fully seated and the snap ring in in place on the top CSB, the gears are where they are supposed to be, as long as none of them were changed out (i.e. using 3rd for 4th without modifying the CS 3rd).
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Old 06-07-2015, 09:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks. The snap ring looked like it was on from the part I could see. However, I could not see the back half to know if it is fully and properly on. I'm going to try putting it all back together again.
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Aquafina View Post
If the ISB is fully seated and the snap ring in in place on the top CSB, the gears are where they are supposed to be, as long as none of them were changed out (i.e. using 3rd for 4th without modifying the CS 3rd).
Thanks Aquafina. I found that the countershaft bearing snap ring was not seating fully. To seat it I did the following.

1. Put away the harbor freight snap ring plyers
2. turn the tranny on its side where the countershaft was leaning backwards with gravity assist
3. Spread the snap ring open and hold
4. Tap the case with a rubber hammer, spin the input shaft back and forth, and finally gently pry the countershaft backwards with a screwdriver against the end of the countershaft locknut and the case.

Finally the countershaft pooped into place and I can see now how much closer the ends of the snap ring are.

The first picture is with it not properly seated. The second picture is after it is seated properly.

Now I'm going to put the 3 detent spring/balls back in and see if will test shift properly.
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:33 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ok. After test shifting, I noticed the following

* Gear shifting works, however, it was a bit difficult to get into 5th reverse. A small thud from a small rubber hammer puts it in reverse. After the first couple of shifts, it is a bit easier to get into them, but not as smooth as the other gears

* The diff output shaft turns even in neutral; however, if I hold the diff still with a tool, then the mainshaft will spin without moving the diff

* It seems a bit noisy. However, I may just need to re-oil everything



Does this all sound normal? Is it just a bit hard to shift manually using a tool (a small punch) shoved through the shift shaft?

Pictures of the forks are attached below.
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Last edited by ryanman0; 06-07-2015 at 10:52 PM.
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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They work better with two quarts of oil/fluid in them....
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by transzex View Post
They work better with two quarts of oil/fluid in them....


Ok. Thanks Bone. The more I shift this thing, the easier it gets to shift. I'm just trying to double check everything since the only other tranny build I did started grinding 3rd after a few thousand miles. I was still able to drive it for until it hit 50 thousand miles by letting the RPMs drop a lot between 2nd 3rd shift (not racing, just a ride to work). However after that the grinding got so bad I was skipping the gear all together. Once I took that tranny apart, the gear was very loose. From reading threads on here, I suspect it was either cheap aftermarket synchros that I bought or something I did wrong. Anyway I'm trying to avoid all that this time. I'll try putting it all together after my .99x65 mainshaft shim arrives.

And thanks for all the info you post. I've probably read the equivalent of a book on here with all the info you and Aquafina posted. I would never have been able to do this without this info.

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Old 06-16-2015, 11:29 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Bench-shifting into reverse will always be more difficult...and "noisy". What has helped me in the pass it spinning the input shaft while shifting it.
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Old 06-23-2015, 09:06 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Ok. I installed the transmission today. Wish me luck. So far, so good. I'm still working on the rear suspension and brakes, so I couldn't drive it. However, the front wheels were off the ground, so I was able to shift through all the gears by letting the wheels spin in the air. It seemed to shift into all the gears fine. Reverse and Neural all seem to work. No leaks or grinding.

My clutch slave cylinder popped apart while reinstalling and flew everywhere so I got one from Autozone for $15 of so.

Oh yeah. I learned the hard way to make sure the motor isn't raised too high by the engine hoist before trying to install the tranny. Otherwise, there is no room. This took me a while to figure out. Also, I think I used a bit too much hondabond.
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:25 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Isn't great that you can just pick-up one of these things and move them around with one hand! LOL!

Nice paintwork! Next, paint that ugly yellow'd lower radiator hose bracket.
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Old 06-29-2015, 09:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Isn't great that you can just pick-up one of these things and move them around with one hand! LOL!

Nice paintwork! Next, paint that ugly yellow'd lower radiator hose bracket.
Yeah. Not sure if paint would stick to the plastic.
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Old 06-29-2015, 09:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Ok. I have put about 180 miles on the rebuilt JDM tranny. It shifts very, very smooth. No noises or grinds as of yet. Shifting it into reverse sometimes feels a bit different. But that might be because I'm used to my old tranny which was a bit more worn out when I rebuilt it.

I finally got to replace the noisy used throwout bearing which I had used last time.

So far, so good.
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Old 06-29-2015, 09:21 PM   #16 (permalink)
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No, but you can dye it, which the boiling will also strength it if it is a new piece. Underhood temps have already hardened it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAI959jdDL0
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Old 07-02-2015, 10:30 AM   #17 (permalink)
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No, but you can dye it, which the boiling will also strength it if it is a new piece. Underhood temps have already hardened it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAI959jdDL0

Thanks. I'll check it out!
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