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Old 07-09-2010, 12:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Attempting Clutch Replacement - What Else To Replace

My 2000 Si is in need of a clutch, it has 124,000 miles. I'm going to order an Exedy replacement clutch, resurface the flywheel, axle seals, RMS.

Is there anything else I should be checking / replacing while I'm in there? Do I need a torque wrench? Any special tools I need? RTV?

Thanks for the help.
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Old 07-09-2010, 12:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Well of course your going to be needing a tq wrench. How else are you gonna tq everything to spec?

As for things you might need? I wouldnt think so. Besides new MTF fluids since the clutch kit should come with the needed bearings. Not sure if it comes with a pilot bearing though but you'll need that as well. Other then that, you seem to have all the things to you need.
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Old 07-09-2010, 12:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Nah, Just impact the bell housing bolts, the clutch hold down bolts are light torque like 18-24lbs or something like that. Dont quote me on it, but its not much. If your doing the axle seals while your there good, form sir. Other wise it should be pretty straight forward.
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Old 07-09-2010, 12:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammo115 View Post
Well of course your going to be needing a tq wrench. How else are you gonna tq everything to spec?

As for things you might need? I wouldnt think so. Besides new MTF fluids since the clutch kit should come with the needed bearings. Not sure if it comes with a pilot bearing though but you'll need that as well. Other then that, you seem to have all the things to you need.
Most new clutch kits come with a pilot bearing. And yes DO torque the clutch hold down bolt to spec, but the bell housing bolts make them PFT!!
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Old 07-09-2010, 12:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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always use a torque wrench. always.

make sure to apply lube to the throw out bearing too.
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Old 07-09-2010, 12:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The clutch kit will come with everything...and like Levi said, lube up the TOB, the trans housing shaft, and the pivot release arm.
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Old 07-09-2010, 12:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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might as well do the rear main seal and get the flywheel resurfaced. this is just me though
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Old 07-09-2010, 01:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yes grease up the throw out bearing
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Old 07-09-2010, 01:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greasemonkey89 View Post
might as well do the rear main seal and get the flywheel resurfaced. this is just me though


I said that in my first post Jose, lol.

Alright so I need lube, is white lithium grease okay? I'll buy / borrow a torque wrench. Lube TOB and pivot arm. Anything else?
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Old 07-09-2010, 01:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Lithuim grease is fine. Thats what I used.
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Old 07-09-2010, 01:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khnemu View Post


I said that in my first post Jose, lol.

Alright so I need lube, is white lithium grease okay? I'll buy / borrow a torque wrench. Lube TOB and pivot arm. Anything else?
oh my bad reading owns me carry on
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Torquing to spec is a good idea on things that are going to be spinning several thousand rpm.

Tranny bolts? Mount bolts? Don't bother.
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Lube TOB and pivot arm. Anything else?
dont forget to lube the shaft. ....
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:34 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammo115 View Post
dont forget to lube the shaft. ....
That's a given.
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I would definatly do the rear main while you got the trans dropped, seems like every honda ive worked on has a leaking rear main. Lube anything that moves, you will need a 12mm 12 point for the pressure plate bolts and a 17mm 12 point to remove the flywheel to put the new pilot bearing in. Those are also the only 2 parts you NEED to tourque to spec. Make sure you use the clutch disk allignment tool.
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Old 07-10-2010, 12:13 AM   #16 (permalink)
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<<<<< Doesn't torque anything to do with clutch/flywheel/transmission.

Impact set on 3 for flywheel, set on 1.5 for PP bolts.

I know my impact very well.
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Old 07-10-2010, 08:57 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Just because a rear main seal is leaking and you replace it doesn't mean that the leak will stop. I've seen bad rear main seals wear a good groove into the crank that even a new seal couldn't 100% seal up. Out comes a speedi-sleeve.
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Old 07-11-2010, 01:01 PM   #18 (permalink)
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to be on safe side, i would recommend using loctite on flywheel bolts, they are only like 4 bucks for small tube,

MEDIUM STRENGTH will do it,

unless u gonna swap flywheel in and out every few thousand miles u dont need it haha, but sounds like just one time replacement thing. extra insurance wont hurt and factory bolts have loctite in them i believe...
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Old 07-11-2010, 02:01 PM   #19 (permalink)
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always used a brand new oem throwout bearing, the first couple clutchs i did i used the one suppplied with the clutch and started making noise.
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Old 07-11-2010, 08:33 PM   #20 (permalink)
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always resurface the flywheel or it will chatter like a bitch. replace the rear seal. and might as well do the oilpan gasket while you're at it. do it now and it will save you a massive headache later. clean everything and lube the T.O.B and fork assembley. will keep things smooth. i didn't resurface the flywheel and it chattered so bad that it was almost undriveable. caused the throwout bearing to go out in 6 months. had to drop the tranny again. was a total bitch.
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