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Old 10-05-2015, 05:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default EF shocks on EG

Been a while since I posted on here.

Would it be beneficial to use EF/ED shocks on an EG with EG lowering springs?
My thinking is EF/ED shocks are shorter than EG shocks and I am wanting to lower my 94 civic a little.
I am was thinking stock replacement EF/ED shocks with a 2" EG lowering spring (haven't picked one out yet but not one with high spring rates)
Does that sound retarded?

Or even full stock replacement EF shocks and springs but I don't know if the ride height would be even front to back with EF springs on an EG.

This is just for a daily beater.
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Old 10-05-2015, 05:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I am not seeing a reason for NOT using shocks that are designed for you car if you are just lowering slightly for daily driving.
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Old 10-05-2015, 06:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Does all the EF hardware bolt securely to the EF shocks?

I am assuming you woukd do this with aftermarket shocks, not stock shocks, and when lowering you want stiffer springs, not springs off a lighter car.
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Old 10-05-2015, 06:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Spend $80 on those strut top risers from ebay.

THen you dont need to worry about the strut body's being shorter.

Even on stock struts and lowering springs you will still have decent strut life.
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Old 10-05-2015, 09:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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To use the different shocks you will needs the correct forks, which are longer and therefore not any lower that if using correct parts.

Info via Lee Grimes @ KONI-NA
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Old 10-06-2015, 02:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Everything I have read say the EF shock forks are shorter. I already have a pair of them.
I still need to buy new shocks.
A 2-2.5 inch drop on stock EF OEM replacement shocks with EG lowering springs or coils might keep the suspension travel for my EG so then I wouldn't have to spend more on modified top hats is my thinking.

Just reading my last sentence does that make sense?
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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the struts ARE shorter. he is saying the FORKS (bottom adapters) that you NEED are longer.

making the overall package the SAME


Buy struts for your car.
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Ahh, that makes sense.
Thanks the replies.
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Old 10-06-2015, 02:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by transzex View Post
To use the different shocks you will needs the correct forks, which are longer and therefore not any lower that if using correct parts.
I was looking into this and found some more info on "why". The EF shock base is actually ~0.15" wider than the EG/DC shock base. Another thing to point out is the "correct shocks" from the aftermarket can actually be less optimal. 2/3 of the way down in the link below, front suspension section, "AGXs were longer than my stock EF shocks, shorter than my stock DA shocks, and 1/2" longer than my EF Koni Yellows."

EF Hybrid Suspension

Then you'll find the next link on that same page detailing how to mod the EG forks for EF shocks (unfortunately not too helpful for EG owners):

More Shock Travel



Here's what I recommend instead: mod the shock to ride lower in the original EG fork. I did this with my EF's Illuminas & ran it on 2 different cars. The link below is missing pics, but the basic principal is that the brake line bracket sets the height in the fork and you change that. You raise that bracket, dimple the shock for the fork bolt, then bolt it together. I gained ~1" of shock travel & never had it rub the axle.

[FAQ] How-To: Extended Shock Travel (56k... Better get some coffee) - Honda-Tech

I've also made my own tophats - both methods work. For mild drops I'd recommend the fork mod only. You don't need to shorten the rears til you are very low. When you do go low, it's not a bad idea to do both mods for the front.



EDIT: I found the original pics on my PC. These 3 show before, after, and with the bracket removed.





In reality you just have to get that bracket detached, not fixed in place farther up. The clamping force of the fork is what keeps the fork in place, the bracket just makes setting height & angle easy. The easy way is to cut the bracket down one side (make it a c-ring), then use a hose clamp to clamp it in place.
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I will be rereading this when I get home.
But awesome info, thanks
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Old 10-06-2015, 05:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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From reading those posts the shock forks are the same length between EF and ED civics.
And like you mentioned aftermarket shocks can be differing lengths compared to there OEM counterpart.
Probably thinking about this too much for a rusty daily beater. Ha
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Old 10-07-2015, 10:02 AM   #12 (permalink)
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If its a rusty beater, the best suspension solution for you is to find some SUB 100k oem struts. they will stil be better than half the aftermarket struts IF they havent seen lowering springs.
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Old 10-07-2015, 12:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
If its a rusty beater, the best suspension solution for you is to find some SUB 100k oem struts. they will stil be better than half the aftermarket struts IF they havent seen lowering springs.
That's like finding a 90-93 USDM GSR trans with less than 100k. For my teg I tried just that, but finally settled for the Koni SR.T "orange" shocks. I have 2 cars with decent OEM shocks, and these are noticeably firmer on a heavier chassis. I got them for $350 new. I'm not sure if I'd shell out $500+ for adjustable shocks again.
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Old 10-08-2015, 04:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The Koni str.t shocks are on sale for $68 a piece right now. I think I might just spring for those and then save more for some decent springs/coilovers.
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Old 10-08-2015, 04:47 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Those are the orange ones right?

See if you can find a good deal on Koni Yellows. Those are the ones you want.

the Oranges are a middle ground between the yellows and oem if I remember correctly.

yellows plus ebaich/ground control coilover sleeves with a 2-300 rear rate and 3-400 front rate (depending on preference) is a GREAT combo
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Old 10-08-2015, 05:05 PM   #16 (permalink)
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The yellows are $118 a piece which is more than I want to spend.
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Old 10-09-2015, 08:07 AM   #17 (permalink)
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IMO a street car with Eibach Sportlines & Oranges is a perfect combo for the price. With gripy tires and an ITR rear sway this thing turns like a kart. The only caveat is I got Civic-spec springs for the Integra (softer in front, harder in rear), so I had to pull the front shocks OUT of the forks ~3/16" to keep the skunk2 UCA from hitting.

My area is HARD on winter cars, and the oranges are already rusting after 2 partial winters. I drove a different car half the time. I'd cry if I spent a lot on yellows and they were already rusty. I also scored the Sportlines for under $100 in an opened box. The yellows were also more than $118 back then.
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Old 10-09-2015, 09:21 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Orange and yellows have the same compression dampening, just via different means. With street yellows you get rebound adjustment.

-Lee Grimes

I almost tested the EG STR.T's on my white EF sedan, but didn't have the needed forks.
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Old 10-09-2015, 11:49 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Wow, thanks for that info. Now I'm glad I didn't spend the extra cash as it's not a racecar.
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Old 10-11-2015, 06:23 PM   #20 (permalink)
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The inside diameter of the forks, where the shock slips in, is different. I had this issue on a car I previously owned.

https://www.d-series.org/forums/suspe...ifference.html
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