EK Rear Disk Conversion: 6-Port to 4-Port Prop. Valve Issue!? - D-series.org

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Old 08-24-2015, 06:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default EK Rear Disk Conversion: 6-Port to 4-Port Prop. Valve Issue!?

Hi guys-

I am buttoning up the rear disk conversion on my '96 EX sedan (with factory ABS). My stock proportioning valve has 4 ports and the EM1 Si proportioning valve I need to be using has 6 ports. The castings for both proportioning valves look the same except my stocker only has 4 ports that are tapped (look at the pictures for more clarification).

I've searched everywhere but haven't been able to find any information on this particular issue.

I've thought about just plugging the two extra ports that I don't need on the EM1 valve but I can't find any M10x1.0 inverted flare plugs anywhere on the internet.

PLEASE HELP!
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Old 08-24-2015, 08:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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do you have 4 wheel ABS or just front ABS? 96 EX 4dr was not factory equipped with ABS. Coupe was. Must have been ordered new with that feature installed by dealer for whoever bought it new.

4dr LX could have ABs and rear drum...

check your vin

myhondapartsstore.com and see what your rear brakes are. and it tells you what motor

EX sedan should be rear disc to begin with. Just reuse that proportioning valve
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Old 08-24-2015, 08:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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My car had ABS rings and ABS sensors at all four corners.

My car is definitely an EX sedan with a D16Y8.

I didn't think any of the EK sedans had rear disc. I know some of the EJ sedans had rear disc however.

I know my stock prop valve isn't the correct one for my new four wheel disk setup since the rear wheels are easy to lock up and the rear brake are constantly dragging.
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Old 08-24-2015, 08:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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My master cylinder is also 15/16" which I thought was pretty odd.
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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you have a problem if your brakes are dragging. a prop valve has nothing to do with that.

Prop valve is simply a pressure thing. drums use more pressure. a prop valve doesnt cause dragging brakes.

and I see on that site a 96 ex 4dr does have drums from factory. Strange.
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I was able to resolve my issue by using a combination of brake fitting adapters and brake line plugs. I plugged the "extra" ports on the EM1 valve and everything appears to be running great. I'll list the part numbers for the fittings just in case someone else runs into this issue.

Edelmann 270300 Adapter x2
Edelmann 120300 Solid Plug x2
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Old 08-25-2015, 05:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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GOod job updating. We need more users to follow this style.

Glad its working for you.

Check back in a couple days or a week so we know the plugs are hodling up (brake line pressure can slowly rotate SOME plugs out)
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Old 08-25-2015, 06:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm happy to share my experiences about this issue. Hopefully, it helps someone out in the future.

I'll update the thread after I get the brakes bled tomorrow. Right now my brake pedal just feels like a huge sponge. My initial impression is that the rear brakes are no longer dragging.

I would share some photos but my post count is too low for that.
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Old 08-25-2015, 06:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The final setup:



My stock prop valve:



Si prop valve:

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Old 08-25-2015, 06:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Make sure you bleeed in the proper order. Honda isnt a furthest away-to-closest type of bleed
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Old 08-25-2015, 06:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks for the heads up. I'll crack open the service manual.
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Old 08-26-2015, 05:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I was able to bleed the brakes today using the proper Honda order. I got a ton of air out of the rear right wheel.

The front brakes now lock up before the rear brakes when using plenty of pedal pressure. The rear brake dragging has been reduced greatly but is still present. I completely disconnected the parking brake cable at the handle in order to eliminate maladjustment as a cause of the dragging. Next, I will try lubricating the caliper slide pins to eliminate the the rest of the dragging. If that doesn't solve the issue then I guess its time to buy some fancy new calipers.
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Old 08-26-2015, 05:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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have a friend apply and disengage the ebrake a few times. you should be watching the caliper. make sure it is actually returning FULLY to the "nuetral" location.

VERY common for these old gals to get locked up, even if just partially.

Also keep in mind, it might pay to remove the pads, and grease or at least clean where the pads themselves move on the bracket.
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Old 08-26-2015, 05:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
have a friend apply and disengage the ebrake a few times. you should be watching the caliper. make sure it is actually returning FULLY to the "nuetral" location.

VERY common for these old gals to get locked up, even if just partially.

Also keep in mind, it might pay to remove the pads, and grease or at least clean where the pads themselves move on the bracket.
Those are all good suggestions. Thank you!
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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So both rear brakes were dragging but for two different reasons.

Rear Right: The upper caliper pin was rusted in the closed position. This caused the pads to constantly be squeezing the rotor. I was unable to remove the rusted pin so I purchased a new caliper bracket, pins, and boots.

Rear Left: It appears that a really old brake shim had at some point rusted and fused to the caliper bracket. This caused the pad to become wedged into the caliper bracket and unable to slide. I sanded down the old, rusted shim.

The problem has been solved! The rear right pad has a strange wear pattern due to it making contact with the rotor at a weird angle, however.

Last edited by jryKC; 08-27-2015 at 07:11 PM.
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:36 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Things liek that is why I have gotten into the good habit of tearing the brakes apart at least once every 3 months or so to check on things. every other time, the pins get regreased and if rear drums (liek I currently do) I take the drum off, clean all brake dust out, regrease rubbing spots, and re-adjust the drums manually.


Its extra time, but once you have done it half a million times it goes by pretty fast.
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:53 PM   #17 (permalink)
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The 4 port valve is for abs systems and is only a splice joint/bypass. I don't think it is a valve as the abs pump does what the valve does. I could be wrong.

The 6 port is the valve for cars that don't have abs systems. It's controls the byass for the front and rear calipers.

For the rears dragging the Pistons can be stuck causing them not to release. Common problem on Hondas.with the proper tool try turning in the caliper piston to see if you can get them in.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:01 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I bought my rear disk setup off of Craigslist. They are off of a '95 EX Sedan with ABS. I should of done a little investigating before I just threw them on my car.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:04 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The 6 port is the valve for cars that don't have abs systems. It's controls the byass for the front and rear calipers.
The '99-'00 Civic Si has a 6-port valve. As far as I remember they all came with ABS.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:09 PM   #20 (permalink)
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now that you've done that, time to throw it away for this
https://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-f...e-upgrade.html
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