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Old 05-29-2019, 06:44 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Got a few more parts in....
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Old 05-29-2019, 06:48 PM   #22 (permalink)
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And a few more... running out of funds so have to go low a bit on the injectors, 1000cc. Still looking for ecu for tuning and a wideband.... Dont have an FPR, is it totally necessary? Cam gear? Atleast for now??

Also looking for help on brake swap.... I have the GSR front and rear set ups. Also have the Booster and Master Cylinder..... Do I need to do anything to the lines inside the engine bay for them to work??
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Last edited by slo_eg8; 05-30-2019 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 06-05-2019, 03:21 PM   #23 (permalink)
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**BUMP** for help.
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Old 06-06-2019, 07:19 AM   #24 (permalink)
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oem fpr and cam gear will work ..
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:26 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Ok. Got a lot of work done over the past month.
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:32 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Some more done. Where ever you are, you probably heard me cream when I broke the bolt to the coolant neck in the head!!! What a bitch to get it out!
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:39 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Almost there.... need a few things. Bong for oil pan. Ecu or chipped ecu. Geez, I had to notch some of the block to make the turbo fit, since Im going to try and keep my AC. Thats why its facing the pass side.
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:47 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Now a few questions:

Since I dont have a tunable ecu, will it start with the stock one??

Do I try and start with the 1000cc injectors or with the stock ones?

I dont have a wideband O2 yet, will that be a problem?

Do I need a boost controller?

Do I need to get a dump tube made for the wastegate or can I just leave it as is with nothing on it? What happens?

I have a gsr booster and master cylinder. Do I have to get work done to the lines?

Do I need a sandwich plate for the oil pressure, oil feed line, etc or should I just use a standard t adapter that came with the kit?

Can anyone thing of anything that I am missing?????

Thanks all for checking it out. Appreciate any and all help and feedback.
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Old 07-12-2019, 10:35 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hot94hatch View Post
Now a few questions:

Since I dont have a tunable ecu, will it start with the stock one?? yes but I wouldn't drive it like that

Do I try and start with the 1000cc injectors or with the stock ones? stock tune, think about it for a minute.

I dont have a wideband O2 yet, will that be a problem? no. you wont be tuning so no need to figure out afrs

Do I need a boost controller? do you want to run spring pressure or more boost on the fly?

Do I need to get a dump tube made for the wastegate or can I just leave it as is with nothing on it? What happens? I always thought of it like an exhaust valve, no header and you burn the valve.....but if you don't, youre just going to dump hot gas and soot at whatevers in the way

I have a gsr booster and master cylinder. Do I have to get work done to the lines? shouldn't, but a google search wouldn't kill you

Do I need a sandwich plate for the oil pressure, oil feed line, etc or should I just use a standard t adapter that came with the kit? whatever floats your goat

Can anyone thing of anything that I am missing????? more time doing research and reading. look up builds similar to yours and use your noodle

Thanks all for checking it out. Appreciate any and all help and feedback.
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Old 07-13-2019, 12:53 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Sorry, late to this thread but when you asked where to get tuned and I noticed your location, I had to chime in.

Dude, you're 30ish minutes from Xenocron's shop. Lucky.... lol. They are on the other side of the river in Suffern.

I would definitely go there for getting tuned, they are competent with almost all tuning solutions. If you've never been to their website, I suggest you head there and see what they offer for ECU tuning solutions. The support you get from them is fantastic, it's why I always find myself on their website haha.

Xenocron is probably going to be the best nearby place to get a decent chunk of the more expensive go-fast parts for your build, considering your location. They don't sell crap parts either, they only offer the best brands at really good prices. They have some really neat one-off things for Honda's on their webstore that I haven't seen anywhere else. Sometimes when I'm bored, I browse the site just to drool over cool parts haha.
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Old 07-13-2019, 12:59 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hot94hatch View Post
Some more done. Where ever you are, you probably heard me >cream< when I broke the bolt to the coolant neck in the head!!! What a bitch to get it out!
Scream or cream? Either one could potentially fit that situation depending on if anger turns you on lol...
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Old 07-13-2019, 01:58 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Your build is very similar to mine, engine wise that is. I can chime in on a few items:


Quote:
Originally Posted by hot94hatch View Post
Now a few questions:

Since I dont have a tunable ecu, will it start with the stock one??
Yes. It will idle and run just fine with the stock ECU. Do NOT attempt to build boost. Stock ECU has no provisions for what to do if it sees manifold pressure rise above atmospheric air pressure. Before hooking up the boost tube to the intake manifold, you must get tuned first.


Do I try and start with the 1000cc injectors or with the stock ones?
Stock ones if you are going to start the engine with the stock ECU. You have no way of telling the ECU you just installed larger injectors otherwise, and it will flood the piss out of your engine. 240cc vs 1000cc injectors. The stock ECU would try and turn the 1000cc's on in the same way as the 240's, using the same amount of control on time, whereas the 1000's need much less on time to deliver the same amount of fuel as a stock injector.


I dont have a wideband O2 yet, will that be a problem?
Since you seem like you are going to use stock engine management just to get the engine running, then no. It will be much more important to have around the time you get tuned, and for your usage/reference after the tune.


Do I need a boost controller?
Only if you plan on running higher boost pressures than the wastegate is already set at. Tune on the wastegate first, see where your power is at, then if you want more throw one on there. If you get tuned at Xenocron, they have them in their store so you could grab one and throw it on there at the dyno.


Do I need to get a dump tube made for the wastegate or can I just leave it as is with nothing on it? What happens?
Since you are not going to be boosting yet, you don't need one. The wastegate will stay closed until it sees a pressure rise in the intake manifold that matches the spring rating, then will start to crack open. As long as you are not boosting yet, leaving it open is fine as the valve will stay closed. I do suggest you get one before going to the dyno.


I have a gsr booster and master cylinder. Do I have to get work done to the lines?
You may need to bend and maneuver them a bit if the master cylinders are different, but you shouldn't need to do anything terribly special. Chassis brake line to flex hose mounting locations should be in the right places. I installed a 4 bolt Integra Type R brake setup on another civic, and the components were literally plug and play, nothing special needed.


Do I need a sandwich plate for the oil pressure, oil feed line, etc or should I just use a standard t adapter that came with the kit?
Be careful with the brass T fittings. These usually utilize the stock oil pressure light switch location, and usually extend out and away from the block for clearance reasons. If there is too much weight or force on that brass fitting, it can snap. I don't know how rigid your turbo oil supply line is, but keep that in mind if you do use it when you route the line. Keep as little pressure off the fitting as possible. I have personal experience with this, I used to have a 1990 Prelude SI that I rebuilt the engine in and I decided to install an oil pressure gauge at the same time. I bought a gauge with an electric sending unit. The T fitting that came with the kit extended the stock oil light switch and the gauge sending unit about 1.5" away from the block. I even remember asking myself when I installed it "Is that going to be alright? That sender is awfully heavy for it to be away from the block that far on a tiny brass tube like that." Sure enough, my first pull in the car the 1-2 upshift made the engine rock fast and hard enough that it snapped that tube and oil pissed out absolutely everywhere. After that, I built a remote line for it to mount the sender against the firewall. From then on, sandwich plates or remote line period.


Can anyone thing of anything that I am missing?????
You can run the car with the boost tube off of the throttle body when using the stock ECU. Just install another piece of tube and a cheap air filter element from a parts store to the throttle body to keep intake air clean if you do need to drive it. You can also cap the end of the boost tube with a PVC cap/piece of pipe from a hardware store, and clamp it using clamps and another silicone coupling. Doing this, the turbo will attempt to build boost in all of the tubing and the intercooler under higher engine loads. Just warning you that once the turbo spools to the point of trying to building boost, the engine will fall on its face due to the turbo technically acting like an exhaust restriction. The engine will literally struggle to breathe at a certain point. As long as you stay out of heavy throttle, you "can" drive like this if needed for short trips. Doing this also lets you test out your blow off valve to make sure it works properly.

Thanks all for checking it out. Appreciate any and all help and feedback.
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Old 07-20-2019, 12:33 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Thanks @drtalon123 !!!!!! Really appreciate the help. I reached out to Xenocron and spoke with Chris, good guy. He recommended I socketchip my stock p28 ecu for now ( since I cant buy a full computer yet ) and its pretty cheap. They can then build a basemap for me and get it up and going. Then I can get it to them so they can tune. Also recommended me to an awesome shop that does nice fab work for my oil pan bung to be welded. Its in verplank, ny so also 25 mins away from me. They did both my oil pans and I am going to take them my valve cover for the catch can fittings to be added. ( they make their own there custom! ).
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Old 07-20-2019, 12:37 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Which gauges are most important to get? I have a boost gauge. Probably get a wideband O2, is the stock oil pressure switch/gauge good enough to trust? Temp gauge?
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Old 07-22-2019, 07:10 PM   #35 (permalink)
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What solutions do you guys have if the downpipe is hitting the oil pan??Click image for larger version

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Old 07-22-2019, 09:41 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hot94hatch View Post
I reached out to Xenocron and spoke with Chris, good guy.
He is a good guy.

One of my largest purchases from Xenocron I made when I was living in Canada a few years ago. Chris red flagged me due to the purchase amount and me being cross border. He sent me an email asking if I was a real person haha and a ton of other verification questions.

I ended up sending him a picture of me, outside my house with house number in background, the street sign of my street, me in the garage taking a selfie with the car, and a few other credit card related numbers

They do take care of you as long as you are real!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hot94hatch View Post
Which gauges are most important to get? I have a boost gauge. Probably get a wideband O2, is the stock oil pressure switch/gauge good enough to trust? Temp gauge?
I run two, oil pressure and boost.

If your cluster temp gauge is working, just use that.

I like seeing real oil pressure values, so I almost always like an oil pressure gauge. Definitely use the two in tandem, keep the stock oil pressure switch so it operates the cluster light, but also work a real pressure gauge in there if you can (the electric sending unit gauges, not the ones that pipe oil into the cabin).

Make sure you are getting an A/F gauge that works with your wideband controller. You need a wideband controller and a sensor as well, otherwise the gauge by itself is useless.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hot94hatch View Post
What solutions do you guys have if the downpipe is hitting the oil pan??Attachment 126393 This is pretty much whats holding me up now from closing up.
I responded to your other post on this as well. If it was me, I would have the DP modified for proper clearance.

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Old 07-24-2019, 05:20 PM   #37 (permalink)
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If I order a new wideband, it comes with gauges, controller and everything needed right? I was thinking of the aem uego 30-4110??? Good choice??
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Old 07-31-2019, 02:23 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hot94hatch View Post

While installing one of the pistons, one of the rings must've slipped out of the compressor and when I was knocking it down, it chipped one of the rings. Luckily I noticed it before I closed it up. Had to order a whole new set from speedfactory, now I have spares.
That's why I don't use those cheap ratchet compressors. Go with something like Wiseco piston ring compressors and you will never have any issues. Plus, you don't even need a stinkin' hammer/mallet.
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Old 07-31-2019, 02:25 AM   #39 (permalink)
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yes, go with the AEM UEGO kit. I have that on my setup as well and works fine. Innovate wideband have been known to have more issues so I would stay away from that.
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Old 08-01-2019, 12:54 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Got my PLX wideband. Thanks to @Crip Tofer for the suggestion and possible idea to be stolen on the mounting of the gauges &#x1f642;.

Update on the DownPipe.... Took it to the guys at STS AutoDesign. Totally had forgotten to measure up with the AC bracket and AC Compressor ( since the plan for this is to have AC ). It was not going to fit the way it was made. They are going to fix it up. I will post pics of the work when its done.
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