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Old 07-27-2019, 11:02 PM   #101 (permalink)
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All buttoned up and clamped:















Yay! My measurements were right, the bumper cover slipped right over everything with no interference or touching:

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Old 07-27-2019, 11:05 PM   #102 (permalink)
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I was not looking forward to how time consuming the wastegate tube was going to be, but I ended up spending about 9 hours messing with this stupid thing. It was also my first attempt at pie cuts:















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Old 07-27-2019, 11:09 PM   #103 (permalink)
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I was actually quite proud of the piece of pipe that transitioned to the downpipe, as I made that tubing notch with a handheld angle grinder!!



Here it is, all welded up to fit:











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Old 07-27-2019, 11:22 PM   #104 (permalink)
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After the wastegate tube was installed, it was time for more back breaking and time consuming nonsense, the rest of the exhaust:



I started by welding another V-Band flange on to the downpipe and the other half on the flexpipe that leads to the rest of the exhaust. I did this so that I wouldn't ruin my downpipe if I ever had to replace the flex pipe in the future:



Disconnected the downpipe from the flexpipe and began to finish the rest of the piping. Straight stainless section with a stainless resonator in between:











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Old 07-27-2019, 11:26 PM   #105 (permalink)
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From here, it was a LOT of trial and error trying to determine where I wanted this pipe to exit. I ended up on relying on NASA's regulations to a T again to come to the conclusion for me "The exhaust exit must extend past the vehicle's front seats, must not exit under the car and must not point towards the ground". This was the natural path since I didn't want to make the piping go over the rear lower control arms:











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Old 07-27-2019, 11:35 PM   #106 (permalink)
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And then, a final little aluminum trim piece to finish off the exhaust exit:





This pipe is disturbingly quiet at idle, and it made me reconsider the design at first because I didn't know how it was going to perform off idle. That was, until I took my first test drive haha.

It is perfect being quiet at idle, totally inconspicuous, but then off idle and getting on it, it has a deep non-raspy sound that is exactly the non-fart can sound I was hoping for. A long resonator chamber without a fart can makes a huge difference in achieving a deep sound on Honda's, I don't know why people don't do this more often!

A brief video of my first extended test drive after getting the car running:


Being throttle conservative in not knowing how my base tune was going to respond in boost. I took some datalogs on my way to work, and tweaked the A/F at my desk, then uploaded the changes on my way home. Once I dialed in the A/F to nearer my 13.5 to 14:1 target for general cruising and 12.5-13.5 under boost and higher in RPM, this thing boogies on just wastegate spring pressure!

The gate spring is 7.5PSI, and with the pressure drop across the intercooler I end up with 6PSI at the intake manifold. I CANNOT wait to get this car to the dyno so I can find out how much power it actually makes! On gate pressure, it has to be making close to 275 at least. I destroyed a stock looking SRT8 Jeep from stoplight to stoplight, was a blast! He took off like a bat out of hell, but I caught and passed him with relative ease.

Electronic boost control will be setup for the tuner to take advantage of at the dyno, I am going to tell him/her to see what it takes to get to 350WHP, turning up the boost and playing with timing incrementally.

Before the dyno though, I am going to finish the installation of my oil cooler to help out with oil temps. I have a pretty cool idea for where to mount the cooler, I have not seen anyone mount in this location before so I'm excited to share that!
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Old 07-28-2019, 12:09 PM   #107 (permalink)
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planning on putting some flex pipe on that wastegate?


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Old 07-28-2019, 12:52 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Quote:
It was also my first attempt at pie cuts:
they look ok..

exhaust sounds good .
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Old 07-28-2019, 02:18 PM   #109 (permalink)
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planning on putting some flex pipe on that wastegate?
I wanted to ! I really did! But I couldn't find anything in 1.5" nearby when I was crafting, but I will at some point and just make a cut and weld it in.... it was a bastard to get everything to line up stress free without the flex!
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Old 07-28-2019, 03:35 PM   #110 (permalink)
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I think MAYBE a slip joint would help it and allow it to flex, like the ones they make for cat deletes. use some springs to keep it pulled tight


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Old 07-28-2019, 08:51 PM   #111 (permalink)
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I think MAYBE a slip joint would help it and allow it to flex, like the ones they make for cat deletes. use some springs to keep it pulled tight
Ooo that's a decent idea, I might be able to build something like that... I will experiment!
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Old 07-28-2019, 09:10 PM   #112 (permalink)
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Some pictures of the car once I finished getting most things fully buttoned up:







When I was looking into mounting gauges and blocking off the HVAC panel hole in the dash, I came across a seller on eBay who goes by GregParts. He has a business 3D printing some really slick pieces for Honda's, and certain parts that are hard to find on older Hondas. Very professionally done, and perfect fit and finish. They mount in exactly the factory locations with no modifications needed. You can definitely tell he takes the time to get the details correct. Check out his other stuff here: https://www.ebay.com/sch/gregparts-l...p2047675.l2562

He even 3D prints an entire center console for the 88-91 CRX! Check out his stuff, good prices on his offerings as well.

I only have two stickers on the car, I put his to help out his small business:









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Old 07-30-2019, 10:13 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Got the oil cooler setup today, going to install it Thursday/Friday.

Also about to order some more track day goodies:

https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Br...o=140-10736-DR

https://konigwheels.com/wheels/main-...eels/backbone/

https://www.toyotires.com/tire/patte...xoCygEQAvD_BwE

K1 - Street </br>EG / EK / DC2

Along with

- A rear sway bar, mount and end link kit
- rear slotted rotors and ceramic pads on stock rear calipers
- rear strut tower brace

After these are installed, setup and alignment done, the car is getting dyno'd.

The combination of everything should be where I set my goal 3 years ago. The car will be used for HPDE events as well as participation in NASA's new TREC endurance series. I'm really looking forward to getting 1 or 2 runs in before winter at VIR. None of the events I plan on participating in for at least the next 2 years require a roll cage at all.

I do plan on installing at least a bucket seat and 5 point harness some time next year to take advantage of the tires and suspension being installed, but it will not be needed for the time being.

I'm looking forward to semi-regular attendance at track days! I have nowhere near the means to seriously compete, but I do plan on having as much fun as possible with the car as is.
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Old 08-01-2019, 11:25 PM   #114 (permalink)
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Started installing the oil cooler. Tested the thermostatic oil control valve in the sandwich plate adapter before installing to make sure things opened and closed properly.

This valve is pretty cool, at temps below 170F the valve is closed which basically exposes a bypass hole allowing something like half the oil to flow through the cooler and the other half straight to the engine.

After 175ishF, the valve starts to crack open and the bypass closes entirely and all oil from the oil pump is forced through the cooler, then through the filter and finally the rest of the engine. The thermostat does work:

Closed, bypass hole open:



Open, bypass hole closed:





Once I got that tested, I installed it on the car. I am running two sandwich plates on this car, one for the turbo and gauge oil pressure takeoff's and the other is the cooler plate. There doesn't seem to be an issue running two plates as long as you install things correctly and apply a bit of loctite to the threaded adapters when you tighten them down so they can't loosen up.

Ran the lines that came with the kit to determine the best routing path, then removed the front bumper and started fitting things. This was also the proper time to install my brake duct work (Shop Vac Hose) since the bumper was going to be off for the install.

I used zip ties to join the hose to the fog light duct things, then wrapped the joint ( lol) with 3M aluminum duct work tape. Also used the same tape to determine where the oil cooler was going to best mount. I settled on mounting it to the bumper cover rather than anywhere else. I thought of doing a hood mount and building a small scoop, but that would be subaru poser-ish of me so no.








Building brackets:

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Old 08-01-2019, 11:30 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Cut the hole, and installed some rubber edging/seal material (same as I used on the sunroof) to fill the gaps between the bumper cover and the cooler:







I mounted it at an angle in the bumper for two reasons, 1) when the car is running forward, air is still being pushed straight into the cooler and 2) the winglet on the front splitter when mounted kind of dams air up right in front of the cooler so it can pour into the opening easier.

From the front looking straight you almost can't even tell it's there, especially once the winglet is installed. Very low key:



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Old 08-01-2019, 11:31 PM   #116 (permalink)
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Couple pictures of the 2nd sandwich plate and the cooler lines running to it:






All other track minded parts I posted links to above have also been ordered. I didn't end up going with the Toyo Proxes R888R's, and instead went with a set of Federal 595RS-R's. I compared the specs, and they were very close. Since I'm not seriously competing and I don't have my Toyo HPDE discount through NASA yet, instead of $560 for a set of tires I was able to get the Federal's for $360. I will report on their abilities when I get them put on the new rims.

I found them through Googling, where people were mentioning that the cheapest set of road race spec tires that would get you out on the track for the cheapest price and allow you to perform decent were the Federals. I've never used these tires before, so I'm excited to try them out!
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Old 08-02-2019, 06:45 AM   #117 (permalink)
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So on the oil cooler plate if it fails. Does it fail and all oil goes to the cooler, or will it just circulate back through the engine like in stock form?

Do you have a link to the one you purchased I have no need for one more curious and looking to learn more.
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Old 08-02-2019, 12:08 PM   #118 (permalink)
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So on the oil cooler plate if it fails. Does it fail and all oil goes to the cooler, or will it just circulate back through the engine like in stock form?

Do you have a link to the one you purchased I have no need for one more curious and looking to learn more.
It is a generic kit, and that thermostat sandwich plate works on a ton of different engines across many year make models.

Looking at it, I suppose if it failed it's position would be anyone's guess! It does have a stop when oil is cold, so it can't 100% shut of oil flowing through the cooler below 170 degrees.

If it failed in either position, oil would always be allowed to flow no matter what based on its design, either through the cooler or bypass. I suppose the only way to really tell if it failed would be to use an oil temp gauge and monitor how it indicated temperature over time in different conditions, and depending on how your oil temp reacted in certain conditions would tell you which way it failed.

Here is the link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/GPLUS-16-RO...=1704936391013
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Old 08-03-2019, 12:58 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Update on the cooler, this little guy is awesome. Was a pain in the ass to get the line routing the way I wanted it, but the performance in the end speaks for itself.

Before the cooler, my cruising oil pressure was around 50PSI at roughly 3000RPM with engine hot and ambient temps around 90F. Now under the same heat conditions and running length of time, I gained about 15 PSI to make cruise closer to 60-65PSI, and idle pressures also saw a nice increase, up from about 12PSI at idle to 20-25 PSI.

The cooler did exactly what I hoped it would, to help overall temps but to help keep the oil from thinning out too much with added heat. Should be useful under track conditions!



The passenger fender well behind the bumper cover is a busy place at the moment:



Also managed to get the brake cooling ducts ran. The duct on the driver side was tricky to make work as the harmonic balancer was in the way to get the best angle. Passenger side routed perfect. Can't wait to get the big brake kit installed as well!



Oh yeah, going to get some gas in the car the Goodyear blimp was out flying around too!





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Old 08-10-2019, 10:51 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Had to take a trip for work and couldn't get around to working on the car for a few days. Can you guess where I went?



All of the parts ordered had come in, and so this weekend I took the time to install everything:




Wheels and Tires - Went to the tire shop and got them mounted and balanced. Konig Backbone 16 x 7" wheels, Federal 595 RSR 205/45/16 tires. Will report on the handling capabilities once I get everything aligned properly.




Rear sway bar - This kit installed rather easily. Hardly anything needed to be modified, and was straightforward to install. Had to go to the hardware store and get some fasteners for the end links, but other than that it all went together pretty simply. Also went ahead and installed the new rear rotors and pads as well.








Shocks - K-Tuned K1's, these things seem like nice replacements for the factory versions. I haven't driven the car yet with them installed, as I still need to set ride height. The manufacturer says preload was set, but I have yet to inspect this. Will check tomorrow when setting ride height. Maxing them out at their tallest height setting is about 1 inch shorter than factory versions, but the spring tension on the newer ones makes up for the travel distance. At max length, it is basically at factory ride height. I will be lowering the car down about an inch with these new wheels and tires.

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