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Old 07-19-2013, 09:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default eBay rear lower control arms

Last time I was at the junkyard I saw a '95 Civic EX sedan that had an OEM rear sway bar. Considering that my car never came with any sway bars ('92 Civic CX), and after auto-crossing it for a full season to get a good feel for the stock setup, I felt like a small 13mm rear bar would compliment things quite nicely.

I had replaced my LCA's about 6 years ago with brand new OEM LCA's that have the little threaded hole for the stock sway bar attachment. Upon installation of the 13mm rear bar, I found that the threaded holes were completely rusted through. While attempting to thread in the bolt (insanely tight), the head snapped off leaving a portion of the threaded bolt jammed in there. An easy-out was out of the question, and I didn't want to drill it (too lazy) so I figured I'd just get an eBay replacement set of aluminum LCA's.

First of all, I just want to remind everyone that the stock Honda LCA's are usually rusted in there pretty DAMN BAD. Upon removal, the bolt that connects the LCA to the spindle was completely frozen. Impossible to get off.

After a while with a grinder and a dremel, I finally got it out. Take a look...




Notice the bolt stuck into the outer bushing hole. Here are some leftover parts, I ended up having to cut out the welded bolt on the spindle to get the rest of the bolt out (it was totally rusted into that nut as well)...





Anyway, you get the picture. I posted all of the above just to remind everyone that a simple rear LCA swap can end up being a HUGE pain in the ass.

Now, onto the new hardware. Here is the item I bought. Overall they look pretty solid. It's pretty heavy for aluminum, but lighter than the stock LCA's. The bushing design looks similar to OEM. Here it is...





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Last edited by mrtodd; 07-19-2013 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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After applying some white lithium grease to the bolts (so they don't rust as easily) I went ahead and installed everything. Both LCA's lined up well enough, so that's a good sign. Next, I noticed that the sway bar bolt holes had no threading in them. While attempting to put in the factory sway bar bolts into the LCA, I quickly realized that I needed not only a nut on the other side, but also longer bolts, and some spacers/washers to level out the sway bar attachments properly. I went to home depot and got some M10 x 1.25 bolts that were 80mm long. A bit overkill, but 60mm seemed a touch too short. I ended up stacking 6 washers on each bolt to get things to work. Here it is, installed...







Here's an upclose shot of the one of the new bolts. As you can see I put it facing in the opposite way of stock. I did this to keep the smooth portion of the bolt's shank in contact with the aluminum LCA - it will prevent the threads from 'biting' into the softer LCA material.





In this pic you can see how far the bolt sticks out on the other side, along with the stack of washers...





Last but not least, a view of the whole rear end...







After I finished the installation, I took my car up to a canyon drive and drove around like a total jackass. The rear end feels nice and solid (relatively) - most of which is due to the sway bar. When hitting bumps everything felt concise and controlled, no extra noise, just felt like it was supposed to. After my drive I took a peek at my custom sway bar bolts and the bushings in each LCA, and everything looked great.

In the end I think these LCA's were worth the money. Obviously time will tell how long the bushings last and also my sway bar bolts, but I don't think I will run into any problems. I figure if the bushings go out I may be able to install some ES bushings to replace them, as the bushings look very similar to OEM.

Anyway, that's it. Just wanted to share.
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Last edited by mrtodd; 07-21-2013 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:30 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I love my EMUSA LCA's, Poly bushings look great and not to cheap!
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Keep an eye on the bushings. I've heard they rarely last longer then 6-12 months before taking a shit. Just a heads up.
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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All the rear components I've taken out including lower control arms have not had a spec Of rust. You live in the north right?
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If you can, please measure the diameter of the bushings for the shock and one of the other bushings. If they use stock-sized bushings, these would be great if mixed with hardrace or pic bushings.
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I have heard horror stories about eGay LCA's and even Blox with the cheap rubber bushings.....Another reason why I went with the poly ones.
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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HiProfile - how accurate of a measurement do you need? All I've got is a measuring tape.

I am not holding my breath for those bushings to last, but they do look a bit better than the other LCA's I saw on eBay. Time will tell. If they do get torn, I'll post here.....if I remember
Hah.
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Old 07-21-2013, 04:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Don't put straps around em if you do any Dyno .pulls either. There's another guy on here who bent his doing that.
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Old 07-21-2013, 10:44 AM   #10 (permalink)
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when i bought my 89 civic sedan, guy i got it from bought some gold ebay control arms right before i got it and slapped on there just for looks. i drove it for literately 4 days, when i took the rear wheels out to inspect the rear brakes, it had already cracked. arms had roughly 500 miles on them.
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:12 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Don't put straps around em if you do any Dyno .pulls either. There's another guy on here who bent his doing that.

Really good to know. I'll be sure to avoid that when I get my car tuned.
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Old 07-21-2013, 03:57 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Jack up the back of your car and set the tires on stands of some sort so all the weight is on the suspension like it would be on the ground. Then go under there and loosen all the bolts u had out and then tighten them again. Doing this will help your bushings last.
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:58 AM   #13 (permalink)
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No offense, but I would trust any ebay stuff on my vehicles. Only thing I like to get from ebay is interior piece and exteriors pieces(fenders,bumpers etc. no after market lol) Any way I just wanted to say glad you are having luck with your items,and the aluminum finish really does look good on there lol.
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Old 07-24-2013, 12:04 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Just now finished inspecting, and loosening/tightened (while weighted) the LCA's bushings, like LTB recommended. The bushings look fantastic...as they should, as it's only been 5 days. So we can at least tell that they aren't total crap.

Now, are the bushings as good as OEM? I don't know. But so far it's looking good.

Speaking of which, I measured the bushing diameter and thickness, and they look almost identical to the OEM bushings on the OEM LCA's. My measurements weren't perfect, as I was using a measuring tape, but as far as I can tell it looks like they are the same. That being said, you may be able to replace the bushings with Energy Suspension units. Again, I'm not 100% sure on the measurements, as I didn't remove the eBay LCA's to measure compared to stock LCA's. But if they're not exactly the same dimensions, then they are pretty damn close.
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Last edited by mrtodd; 07-24-2013 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 07-24-2013, 12:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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All the rear components I've taken out including lower control arms have not had a spec Of rust. You live in the north right?

I live in SLC, UT.

Also, THIS is the item I got from eBay. Just so everyone knows.
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Last edited by mrtodd; 07-24-2013 at 12:17 PM.
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Old 07-24-2013, 12:48 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtodd View Post
Just now finished inspecting, and loosening/tightened (while weighted) the LCA's bushings, like LTB recommended. The bushings look fantastic...as they should, as it's only been 5 days. So we can at least tell that they aren't total crap.

Now, are the bushings as good as OEM? I don't know. But so far it's looking good.

Speaking of which, I measured the bushing diameter and thickness, and they look almost identical to the OEM bushings on the OEM LCA's. My measurements weren't perfect, as I was using a measuring tape, but as far as I can tell it looks like they are the same. That being said, you may be able to replace the bushings with Energy Suspension units. Again, I'm not 100% sure on the measurements, as I didn't remove the eBay LCA's to measure compared to stock LCA's. But if they're not exactly the same dimensions, then they are pretty damn close.
To measure the OD use a flexible tape like a taylor would, or use a piece of string wrapped around it and measure its length.
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Old 07-29-2013, 03:45 PM   #17 (permalink)
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If it's w/in a MM of stock via string measurement, it's probably the same size as stock. That would be a much cheaper option for that MFG than having them design their own bushing, after all that type is on several MILLION cars already.

I wouldn't expect ES bushings to work properly, since OEM arms have a wider (deeper?) tube that it fits in. Rubber bushings are a press-fit so it's just the diameter that matters, ES are 2-piece and are a slight friction fit.
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:23 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Everything still good with these?
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:58 AM   #19 (permalink)
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My brother is running a set of emusa (ebay) lower controls on his airlift civic and has no problem with them. Hes been running them for a while and auto crosses it. I bought blox ones for my hatch worst 100$ ever spent. The bushings on mine went bad in 5 months!
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:37 AM   #20 (permalink)
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6+ months of hard use on my $123 shipped PIC lower LCA's . I love em.
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