Suja one SONEM ef/ed cable to hydro bracket (56k die slowly) - D-series.org

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Old 11-25-2011, 11:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Suja one SONEM ef/ed cable to hydro bracket (56k die slowly)

So i decided upon the sonem ef cable to hydro bracket kit from suja one. Since when i put the 6 puck action clutch in my crx, i also swapped to a hydro tranny vs cable. Then the clutch cable kept giving me issues like stretching, binding, breaking the mounts and the cable itself. The cable stretched so much that the clutch disengaged barely half an inch from the floor.

I mainly didnt like the alternatives to converting to hydro. Such as the hasport remote master/slave setup since the idea is to get rid of the cable in the first place, not patch it up. The kit ended up costing me 180$ shipped to my doorstep, and it took them about 3 weeks to get it shipped out to me after a couple weeks of delays, since i guess they had to make one and didnt have it in stock. They replied quickly to emails and kept me informed so im happy with the service overall.

Now as for the part review. It came shipped in a USPS flatrate box inside a black bag (like from k-mart) and then covered in newspaper and then packing peanuts. Packaging seemed to be good enough, as the part wasnt damaged or marred in any way.



It also came with an instruction manual and my invoice.

The instruction manual is obviously for somone who has a little experience with fab work. Allthough its not blatantly vague on what to do. It mainly consists of a page of word instructions and then a couple stock pictures with circles mspainted on to them. However its easy enough to figure out what to do so its more than adequate.

The part itself looks like it was laser or waterjet cut out of a peice of 1/4 steel and then tig welded together (or tig/mig in some parts). The welding looks good, nice and clean. The design of the part is also good such as the little hole next to the master cylinder to allow access to the clutch assembly mounting bolt. The peice is also painted with a strong paint that doesnt flake off at the first scratch of a screwdriver.




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Old 11-25-2011, 11:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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So i bolted it all together and found that there were some parts that i needed that were not included in the kit, however they are not ground shatteringly expensive and can be bought at home depot. First thing was the bolt that goes through the brake pedal pivot point and sticks out was not long enough to engage all the threads, let alone put a lock washer on it. So i went and got a 3/8 grade 8 bolt with a nylock nut installed it, engages all the threads and i know it wont fall off.

As for where it bolts to on the clutch side, the bolt barely misses about 2 threads, and theres not much i can do about that other than grinding down the bracket itself or grinding the steel spacer sleeve down that the clutch pedal rides on, but then when i tighten the nut down, it will crush the pedal and make it hard to move.


Now, when you get the kit they tell you, that you have to weld in some washers on the end of the clutch pedal assembly where the hook is so that you can pin it to the master cylinder. This isnt difficult however the alignment is OFF if you simply weld the washers in! make sure you check the alignment first before cutting/welding anything in. For me the alignment was completely off and i needed to grind about 1/4 of an inch downwards into the pedal assembly in order to get the master cylinder rod to sit straight.


The master cylinder in the pictures is a stock MC from autozone for a 97 civic, it was 24.99 with a 1 year warranty. Now if you noticed the MC is flipped upside down, this is due to the space constraints in the crx's. if your not going to run the MC upside down your going to need to remove the drivers side air duct (or cut out a shitload from it). Flipping the cylinder poses other problems though, you have to get either a 90 degree fitting (AN/JIC) for the pressure line and a 90 degree barb for supply. Or a 45 degree banjo fitting (10mm) for pressure and a 90 degree barb for supply. As long as the supply reservoir is higher than the master cylinder you will have no issues just make sure to bleed the shit out of it. Also, do not use heater hose, fuel hose, fuel injection tubing or any other kind of hose that is not brake fluid rated. I know fuel hose seems like it would work but it wont, i promise you it will deteriorate and It WILL begin to "sweat" and leak in a very short period of time.

So other than the small problems ive had so far, im quite impressed with this little kit. The price may be a little steep but it does what it advertises. I give it a solid 4.5 out of 5 and thats being critical of the product.
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Last edited by cervan; 11-26-2011 at 12:01 AM.
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Heh. Didn't know if you flipped the MC that you didn't have to remove the duct.

In some ways, I wish I didn't dislike hydro clutches so much. It would be nice to get rid of that clutch cable that just hangs out in the middle of the bay.

lol.
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Old 11-26-2011, 09:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I love Suja1. They are about an hour from where I live, its where I dyno'd my car. Great people.

I am going to need one of these pretty soon.

Some of their work.
Suja 1 Motoring (Chicago) Rocks! - Honda-Tech
the owner of that crx dyno'd my car and was a little surprised my hmt z6 made more horsepower than his k-series, sense then he has tuned it and made a lot more than my z6.
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Old 11-26-2011, 09:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
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My buddy and I literally just finished installing the hush22 pedal assembly to convert to full hydro. I didn't even know there was another company that made them.
Looks good!
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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This product gets a thumbs up from us. We were the first to use one in a d series drag application and it definitely helped us get the car into the 10s.
It works well, with moderate to semi- heavy clutches as too heavy of a clutch helped bring on too much flex in the assembly. It looks like they have added reinforcement to the design now which is a plus.
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Wanted to update this a little bit, i was going to get a hose made up for the pressure to the slave, turns out that it was going to be 8$ a foot, plus 10$ for each end (needing 6 1/2 foot) means over 80$ out the door with a hose!. Thats expensive as fuuuucckk.

So im going to make my own hard line out of steel flare it, and then run to the stock rubber line. Only will cost me 5$ for a 52'' peice of hard line, plus it will give a better pedal feel, along with being stronger. Ill have pics up tommarow of what i did and how i did it.
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Old 12-13-2011, 11:12 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Interested to see how it all works out for ya.
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Old 12-13-2011, 11:34 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I like my homemade version of this , but its alot better then cables.
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Old 12-13-2011, 05:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BeerDrinkin View Post
Interested to see how it all works out for ya.
Ill keep you guys updated for sure.

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Originally Posted by Topher View Post
I like my homemade version of this , but its alot better then cables.
Do tell? any pics/thread?
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Old 12-14-2011, 06:01 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I have one or two in my build thread
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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UPDATE:

So i finally got around to figuring out how i was going to run the supply line. I was originally going to buy an 8mmx 1.0 right angle barbed fitting for the rubber supply line, however that turned out to be hard to find. So i was going to cut off the original fitting and braze on a right angle 1/8 npt right angle, but i didnt want to ever have a problem with it leaking and wouldnt trust the braze enough. So instead...




I decided that it would be better and easier to simply tap out the original casting in the master cylinder. it actually worked out for the best and now i can put whatever fitting ill ever need in there. I did it with the MC inside the car, and since its flipped upside down all of the shavings simply fell out instead of going inside ( i blew it out with air just in case some got inside).


I was wondering if i was going to have to drill a new hole in the firewall, but lo and behold there was a plug right above where the clutch cable used to come out of, and the line i have fits perfectly through it so win win.

However, while trying to drill out one of the spot welds on the stock fluid reservoir i accidentally punched through it, fuuuuuuuuuuckkkk.
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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ARG! Tiny pictures are pissing me off.



Good work sir.
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snm95ls View Post
ARG! Tiny pictures are pissing me off.



Good work sir.
click on them lol.
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cervan View Post
click on them lol.
All it does for me is redirect to your PB account where they are the same size, and clicking on them does nothing.
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:54 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snm95ls View Post
All it does for me is redirect to your PB account where they are the same size, and clicking on them does nothing.
after you get into pb, click on the picture again
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:01 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cervan View Post
after you get into pb, click on the picture again
Quote:
Originally Posted by snm95ls View Post
All it does for me is redirect to your PB account where they are the same size, and clicking on them does nothing.
Referring to clicking on them in PB.

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Old 12-25-2011, 04:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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One of my customers did the same thing worked out well for them



running the feed line though the cable hole is how I tell of my customers to do as well. Its perfect!





Good job on the install
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Old 01-17-2012, 09:18 PM   #19 (permalink)
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A few more pics, decided to cut the stock mounting bracket and make it fit on my crx. Drilled one hole on the firewall and bent the bracket, then cut the spot welds, rotated and re-welded the "cup" where i wanted it.




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Old 01-26-2012, 05:57 PM   #20 (permalink)
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cervan is the fucking MAN!!!!cervan is the fucking MAN!!!!cervan is the fucking MAN!!!!cervan is the fucking MAN!!!!cervan is the fucking MAN!!!!cervan is the fucking MAN!!!!cervan is the fucking MAN!!!!cervan is the fucking MAN!!!!cervan is the fucking MAN!!!!cervan is the fucking MAN!!!!cervan is the fucking MAN!!!!cervan is the fucking MAN!!!!cervan is the fucking MAN!!!!cervan is the fucking MAN!!!!
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Finally got it all put together and it looks really good. Im excited to actually drive the car with it.

Sorry for all the talking skip to the end if you want to see it in action.

All in all im very happy with the conversion, the only thing im sort of concerned about is the "sway" that the bracket has when i push the clutch in. You can kinda see it when i push the clutch in, it doesnt move a whole lot but it bothers me a little. Im going to see if i can tighten the 12mm down and try to hold it a little tighter other than that, no issues whatsoever.
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when the turbo spins, the bullshit ends
1990 crx - 12.2 @ 119mph Sold
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