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Accusump install

6K views 21 replies 9 participants last post by  rabid 
#1 ·
After ruining 2 cranks, I installed an oil accumulator from accusump. This the the 3 quart high pressure model. I used a b series vtec kit to get this sandwich adapter. It has a -8 o-ring boss port on the filtered side of the oil flow. I got that elbow, which wasn't cheap, a -8an hose and connector kit, a stainless 1/2" ball valve, and 1/2" npt coupler. It's mounted to some holes I found in the back because I didn't want to drill new ones. I planned all this while building a new block for my engine. I can now prime the engine with oil pressure before I start it and hopefully those left hand sweepers can't starve my engine ever again!

20170204_124034 by rabidflickr, on Flickr

20170130_194909 by rabidflickr, on Flickr

Bonus build picture
20170129_164216 by rabidflickr, on Flickr
 
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#10 · (Edited)
G-forces driving the oil away from the pickup tube
Really? Driving too hard before the oil had warmed up would be my first guess, to be honest. (Unless I've missed that it's not a road car?)

Sorry - that sounds a bit accusatory.
If the car's in normal use, I'd see the gadget as being a solution to a problem that shouldn't have been there in the first place. The standard oil pump with the correct oil and filter should be more than up to the job. Perhaps the pick-up tube is deformed or blocked.

What's the car, and what's the engine?
 
#7 ·
I've had one of those sitting on the shelf for years. Needs to find its way into the Tape-R this year.

As an also, many track safety organizations do not like fluids flowing through the cabin. If you haven't planned for one yet, I would recommend building a bulk head over the sump and connections.
 
#13 ·
Ya, I doubt any of the races I go to will care. Maybe an NHRA track might. I wouldn't need it for drag racing anyways. I could disconnect it and hide the line under the carpet, that is, if I ever have a reason to drag race.

What oil pan you running?
Y8

What are you using for valving? The auto systems sound like the hot set-up, but in our race car, it seems to be another thing to break. The manual versions sound more robust, but rely on us remembering to do the right things at the right times.
It's just a 1/2" ball valve. I'm in the testing stages. I open it before I start the engine. I get 20 psi on my gauge which is plumbed into the turbo line coming off the stock pressure sensor port. I do plan to put a servo on the ball valve for easier access. I might even write code into my ecu to control that. First I need to actually race with it decide how I want it to operate.
 
#21 ·
Do you think its the cold starts that ruin the crank, or cornering starvation? Seems like the ball valve is a bit unnecessary, but the idea to prevent dry starts is fanstastic.

I dont see many accusumps on Honda's. Good job.
 
#22 ·
This block and crank went through 5 seasons of racing. I think I replaced the rod bearings twice just to keep them fresh. The mains were used when I started the build. I started putting on stickier tires over time too. The first time last year that the rod bearing went was at a track day. I was fighting to keep oil level up and keep my oil catch drained. After a long day of tracking, it let go. I swapped in a new crank and rod and bearings and it only lasted a month and died at an autocross. There was a nasty long left-hander where I could reach for the limit of my A7s for a good 4 seconds. I did about 12 runs on that. At the end of the day, it was ticking.

I do my best to get the oil at least warm to were the pressure drops before I push it. It idles at 85psi if the oil is cold. I really don't think cold starting is the issue.

The valve lets me prevent dry starts but I also don't want all three quarts dumping into my engine either. That's were I need to figure this out. At high rpm it's making over 80 psi hot and down to 10 psi idle. So at idle the pressure in the accusump pushes it all in. I really only want the valve open while cranking and while racing.
 
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