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Old 12-26-2017, 06:52 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Critique my build plans?

Hi all,

I'm building a d series Honda to compete in the Grass Roots Motorsports Challenge in October 2018.

Rules:
-3 parts to the competition. AutoX, 1/4 mile drag, and concours
-Entire car must be constructed or less than than $2018
-Tires and safety equipment do not come out of budget

Performance Targets:
-Weight under 1900 lbs wet
-200-225 hp
-12 seconds in the drag

Below is my build plan and budget with some specific questions at the bottom. Any suggestions or critique would be awesome!

Engine-$400
D15 or D16
Must be MPFI
Better rods are a plus

Transmission-$200
5 speed
-Close ratios/JDM gearing a plus
-Stock LSD not desirable

Car Shell-$500
-CRX, EF or EG hatch, EG coupe of necessary

Additional parts-
-Used OBX LSD $150
-Home Made Turbo $300
-Paint 200$

Questions-
-What specific engine should I be looking for? I see a lot of info on Y7/Y8, Mini-me, JDM D15b etc and I'm not sure which would be best for these performance targets. It may also depend more on condition than type.
-Should I be looking for OBD-0, OBD-1 or OBD-2? I believe the answer is OBD-1 and using Crome, but am not sure.
- What specific 5 speed should I be looking for? Again, the answer may be condition is more important than type.

Thanks!
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Old 12-26-2017, 09:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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d16a6/z6. obd1, ex/si transmission unless you get lucky and find a zc trans



where you located? I have a buddy here that does this with his Miata truck.

"Steve Swiger’s car started as a Mazda Miata, but now has a Radio Flyer kid’s wagon as the fan shroud/nose, complete with glued-on dead lizard. There’s still a Miata engine, with LED headlights on the frame rails where the nose used to be. No trunk, though — it was a tiny wood-framed pickup truck bed.

Swiger bought the Miata to scavenge some performance bits for his own Miata, but still had a “running, driving Miata” left with a wrecked rear end. So he and Rob Ebersol raced it last year to 12th place, then refined it for 2017.

“He kind of had the vision along with me to progressively turn it into a ’32 Ford pickup rat rod-ish thing,” Swiger said. “It’s a hoot! It’s significantly lighter than it was.”






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Last edited by slo_eg8; 12-26-2017 at 09:45 AM.
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Old 01-01-2018, 03:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slo_eg8 View Post
d16a6/z6. obd1, ex/si transmission unless you get lucky and find a zc trans
You da man! I did some research on d16a6/z6, as well as differences from the y8/obd2. Not sure if i'll be able to locate an a6/ac, but at least I know what i'm looking for, and the tradeoffs involved. Still reading about the transmissions...
Quote:
Originally Posted by slo_eg8 View Post
where you located? I have a buddy here that does this with his Miata truck.
Ha! Your buddy is baller-I think I saw him on the live stream this year. I'm located
in Fort Myers, but the build is taking place in a friend's house in Miami. We're looking for parts/shells in Tampa, if we're I'll buy you a round.
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Old 01-09-2018, 03:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If your planing on staying all motor the power goals are too high. Turbo is good stock rods should hold up your power goals.
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Old 03-03-2018, 08:25 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Update and Transmission question:

Update:
My partner in crime and I paid $450 a 91 civic HF with 110k miles, stock engine and transmission included. We're in business baby!

Question- Is it worth trying to use a hydro si transmission, or should i go with a cable si trans?

I read in SuperStreet magazine that the aluminum shift forks in a cable trans are weak, but but elsewhere on the forum i've read that you should stick with the transmission that matches the chassis...so a cable transmission for the 91 CRX.

It looks like LSDs will fit in either type.

Any thoughts?
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Old 03-03-2018, 09:14 AM   #6 (permalink)
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hydro so you don't have to worry about stretched cables.
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je pistons, eagle rods, y7 lsd trans w/4.3fd
koni yellow/gc coils
uber rare eg6 optional snowflakes

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Old 03-08-2018, 06:54 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danneskjold View Post
Update:
My partner in crime and I paid $450 a 91 civic HF with 110k miles, stock engine and transmission included. We're in business baby!

Question- Is it worth trying to use a hydro si transmission, or should i go with a cable si trans?

I read in SuperStreet magazine that the aluminum shift forks in a cable trans are weak, but but elsewhere on the forum i've read that you should stick with the transmission that matches the chassis...so a cable transmission for the 91 CRX.

It looks like LSDs will fit in either type.

Any thoughts?
Convert to hydro if it's in your budget ... because like Batman said ... no stretched cables.

I think the difference in the shift forks (trying to recall from several transmission discussions from years ago) the aluminum ones bend when they fail ... the steel ones break.

200hp and under you should be good with any D16 bottom end. That being said part of the weak point of the D15 bottom ends (yes the rods are pencil thin) is the rod bolts. When those stretch the forces applied to the rods is all cooky and the tiny rods in a D15 go poof. I had a turbo'd B7/Z6 mini me that I was not kind to that did fine daily driven and AutoXed for 20K+ miles ... I was making 180(ish)whp and about 150(ish) wtq. Does tuning come out of your budget? If it does make sure you leave enough wiggle room for a good tune (I personally liked my high (10.4:1) CR mini me with a small turbo, but the higher your static CR is the smaller the margin of error.
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Old 03-08-2018, 02:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
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In the weight department, you have the option of utterly demolishing the interior. leaving just 1 or 2 front seats, and leave the heater core hooked up.

dashboard stuff alone is worth 25-70 pounds or more, depending on how far you go.

Id leave JUST enough for gauge cluster, steering column support, and heatercore (and climate controls). Keep the heatercore so you can have it on full blast to help keep engine cool during runs.


gutting the back of the interior down to sheet metal nearly, and spray primer or something on it. a LOT of weight can be taken.

take the time with teh HF car and weld on extra metal around the seat anchor points. Honda used one less layer of steel in the HF crx's so I am SAFELY assuming the hatches got the same treatment


a cheap ebay-sourced fuel cell that can hold 4-6 gallons will be a big weight saver, and make it VERY simple to run new fuel lines. find a bigass sheet of palstic to smooth the bottom of the car and chop out the center of the rear bumper.

every little bit of cheap and/or free will help when you are limited on budget and power
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