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Old 10-31-2016, 05:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Y7 head rebuild

I am looking for a spring/retainer set but I am having no luck finding any for the Y7. I can't even track down OEM..I have only searched online. will the vtec head internals fit in the y7, if so then I have some options.

I am not interested in swapping to vtec, thanks.
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Old 10-31-2016, 06:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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they say the skunk2 valves will work at first I thought they would, the head diameter matches but they appear to be too long based on the service manual stem height. ugh
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Old 10-31-2016, 08:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Springs across the y engines will work (y8, y5, y7).

I'm using the Isky springs in my y7. Isky doesn't even list a digit after the y in their catalog.
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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OK, thats good to know. Can I assume the valves will work as well? I am looking into Ferrea or skunk2 to but the lengths on the "standard" valves are longer by 1mm, is that enough make a difference?
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Old 11-01-2016, 05:38 AM   #5 (permalink)
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ok so here is my build for the head

Ferrea 6000 Valves
Ferrea Racing Engine Valve Spring - S10029
Ferrea Racing Valve Spring Retainer - E11010
Ferrea valve seals VS1002/VS1003
ARP head stud
AEM tru-time cam gear

I am leaving the CAM for now, I can change that later easily enough.
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Old 11-01-2016, 03:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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do some reading on the aem cam gears.
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slo_eg8 View Post
do some reading on the aem cam gears.
Haha, you're probably right. I know what they do with timing but not sure if I need it or not. I figured get it while I have access to swap it and figure out what the fuck it does later.

I can leave it set to factory and advance or retard later right?
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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not what I meant at all
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Old 11-01-2016, 05:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I read a few posts about fitment issues, that what you mean? is that everyone's experience I assumed just a few out of the rest had troubles. I am not at that stage anyway.

I am trying to figure out how to get these valve seals off, looks like I will have to get the tool. pliers are not cutting it.
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Old 11-02-2016, 01:10 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Have you looked into putting a vtec head on?
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:15 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Have you looked into putting a vtec head on?
yeah, maybe later on down the road but for now I just want to stick with what I got. Refresh and improve on it a bit.
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Old 11-03-2016, 12:08 AM   #12 (permalink)
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My thinking is a vtec head would out perform a non vtec head with all those bells and whistles is all. I dunno, just a thought.
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Old 11-04-2016, 04:30 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by all_rice View Post
My thinking is a vtec head would out perform a non vtec head with all those bells and whistles is all. I dunno, just a thought.
probably, I wanted to do the head rebuild myself for education purposes and something about not having vtec is appealing to me. I can still make plenty of power without it, lots of builds not running vtec. I am in no rush, I decided to pull the motor so working on getting a cherry picker at the moment. something I have always wanted to do! haha
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Old 11-04-2016, 06:56 AM   #14 (permalink)
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if you want to learn how to do it yourself, why not a vtec head? having a SPARE head to work with is FAR more intelligent than using your only head, unless it is okay the car has downtime.

if yous tick with d16y7 head, order for it, as there is plenty of d16y7 aftermarket stuff for the head/springs/valves

no need to go massive on springs. realize having too stiff of a spring robs horsepwoer and increases cam lobe wear and tear. And also forces you to use a more expensive oil to compensate for the additional wear and tear.

Dont go willy nilly buying stuff. Get a background, read reviews, find out how they are using their parts, etc...
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Old 11-04-2016, 05:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
if you want to learn how to do it yourself, why not a vtec head? having a SPARE head to work with is FAR more intelligent than using your only head, unless it is okay the car has downtime.

if yous tick with d16y7 head, order for it, as there is plenty of d16y7 aftermarket stuff for the head/springs/valves

no need to go massive on springs. realize having too stiff of a spring robs horsepwoer and increases cam lobe wear and tear. And also forces you to use a more expensive oil to compensate for the additional wear and tear.

Dont go willy nilly buying stuff. Get a background, read reviews, find out how they are using their parts, etc...
Good advice, it is a project car so plenty of downtime. I am not against getting a second engine to mess around with, if the opportunity strikes then I am game.

I am replacing they valves, got quote 250 by the machine shop to get the head cleaned, pressure checked and a valve job.

I was thinking about leaving the stock springs? think they are ok, they are nearing 20 years old. The car ran like a champ driving it home from NY to DE aside from random misfire due to the manifold crack.
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