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Old 09-21-2016, 08:28 AM   #1 (permalink)
Zac
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Default d16z6 rebuild advice for Autocross and track.

I have a 93 civic si that I built for track days and autocross. Swapped in a rebuilt d16z6 thinking it would be better but something in the short block let go after 3 events.

The d16z6 that came with the car ran fine but burnt oil and had about 280,000km on it.

I want to rebuild the High mileage motor. So far I'm finding that oem bearings are best but what else should I upgrade to help with the abuse from racing?

Also is there a step by step guide I could follow when dissembling and rebuild?
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Zac View Post
I have a 93 civic si that I built for track days and autocross. Swapped in a rebuilt d16z6 thinking it would be better but something in the short block let go after 3 events.

The d16z6 that came with the car ran fine but burnt oil and had about 280,000km on it.

I want to rebuild the High mileage motor. So far I'm finding that oem bearings are best but what else should I upgrade to help with the abuse from racing?

Depends on the rules you have at your event, if you have to remain 100% stock or you can mix other parts in... But an all legal route you should be able to use a Y8 head gasket, new radiator and OEM fan or spal fan (no ebay junk). OEM oil pump.

Also is there a step by step guide I could follow when dissembling and rebuild?

FSM (factory service manual) will list everything to do and what clearances the bearings need to be and how to set the TB when installing and TQ sequence of the head and gasket.
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:55 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Agree with Beer ... figure out the rules of your class and go from there. OEM rebuild will most likely be the way to go if you just want something to beat on.

ARP hardware might be a good "peace of mind" type thing ... if that's allowed.

OEM will take some serious abuse in autocross ... track I can't comment on.
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Old 09-21-2016, 09:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
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My co driver is 6 feet tall and since we have a sunroof we had to remove the headliner and install a bucket seat so he could fit so we are already out of stock class.

Which radiator would you recommend and where can I get that Honda manual?
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Old 09-21-2016, 09:27 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The shop I go to installed a koyo knock off of some sort in mine. It worked great, they also used the same one in their 500whp drag car.

Look for one with welded end tanks, those plastic ends of the Honda radiators are known weak points.

Something like this. Not necessarily mishimoto though, just an example of what I was running. I think mine was half that price.


Also if you are out of the stock class ... how deep do you want to go? The rabbit hole is fun ... but it doesn't stop.
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Old 09-21-2016, 10:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Just want to spend the money now to have a reliable motor that will last a whole season. We are both relatively new to motorsports and just want to have some fun.
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Old 09-21-2016, 10:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Stock rebuild on the motor should do you perfect then. I think the upgraded radiator would be warranted. Extra cooling capacity for track days, and no plastic end tanks to break/leak.

When you start wanting to get more out of the car ... start from the ground up.

Tires, suspension/brakes, transmission, motor ... in that order (at least that's my suggestion). Figure out where you want the motor to be, then start down that upgrade path to make sure your car will keep the planned motor's power on the ground.

And as always ... if you want to make your car faster:

Step 1: Tighten the nut behind the wheel
Step 2: Repeat Step 1

Good luck with your racing.

Ninja edit: Cheaper alternative to the mishimoto I posted.
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Old 09-21-2016, 10:47 AM   #8 (permalink)
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CX racing makes a good radiator with welded aluminum tanks for less than $100 IIRC. ARP is a good thing to have on those rods and head if you are allowed to run them. Some classes that are stock will allow you to remove some glass and interior but I am not familiar with the rules as I don't race.

I will say this though, time behind the wheel and suspension will help alot more than a stronger engine.
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Just to give you guys an idea what type of abuse this engine needs to hold up too. I did overheat it that day due too the coolant temp sensor being loose but I guess the rad should still be upgraded.

Edit: posted a link to my rally cross video but apparently can't post links yet??
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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https://youtu.be/_wU0xwNiUxg

Last edited by slo_eg8; 09-21-2016 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 11-04-2016, 05:05 AM   #11 (permalink)
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a couple things. auto cross puts your oilling system to the test. pull your engine down and check #4 rod bearing see if that is there. also make sure you check the main bearing oil holes from the lower main cap assy. they have been known not to be machined right restricting oil flow to the crank on #4. if that is ok and #4 is wasted hard cornering will starve the pickup. at that point if you find that is a problem ck out a canton oil pan, shim your oil pump and it does not hurt to port it. I run a canton road race pan and a 3qt accuesump. I don't want to change an engine due to loss of oil pressure.
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