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Old 07-29-2016, 08:29 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Decided to do a rebuild... aftermarket bearings/plastigauge question

New to the forums, and well decided to ask a question since I cant find the answer here on the forums or on google..


I have a 00 civic ex manual (D16y7 block, D16y8 head. Mini me) and since ALL the gaskets on the engine were bad, well except for the head gasket, I decided to purchase the rebuilt kit from kragen.

The kit came with aftermarket bearings called "sealed power" and well since there not OEM I cant color match and need a bit of help. Ive been reading this post:

"Diy main bearings rod bearings"

(mains for this exaple only no rods)
My block has stamped "BBBBB"
And on the crank "44434"

So the questions........

So... OEM main bearings would be Brown(x4) and Green(x1).. Right? If so what gets me soo confused is how to get the exact measurments when using aftermarket bearings found on "Step Five" in the post above^^..

Lastly I know this one might be an even dumber question when using green plastigauge(.001 to .003 inch clearence and .025 to .076 Millimeter other side) were should i be hitting? Im aware that bearing 1,5 differ from 2,3,4 but ive never used plastigague before since I would color match in the past....

Help will be highly apreciated!
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:54 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Aftermarket bearings come in STD size only, no color matching or sizing of STD when dealing aftermarket. Then numbers on the crank and block are for the main bearings. The rod bearings are usually stamped on the rod end.

The 1 & 5 main are different sizes than 2-3-4 but both have a service limit of .002.

Maybe I am not understanding what you want/need...
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Old 07-29-2016, 10:05 AM   #3 (permalink)
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You're looking for a clearance of about .0015 using plastiguage. The bearing colors, numbers, and letters are only for using oem bearings that come in different thicknesses.
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Old 07-29-2016, 03:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisfrom1986 View Post
You're looking for a clearance of about .0015 using plastiguage. The bearing colors, numbers, and letters are only for using oem bearings that come in different thicknesses.
Oh ok, so .0015 for main and for rods?

@BeerDrinkin I wanted to see if i could kinda match up the standard bearings(rods too) close to the oem.. Standard bearings supposed to be the same in thickness and size, but according to kragen, a few come very slighly larfer or thinner... Dont know if its true.

Also wanted to know the clearence I should be looking for when using plastigauge, for mains, but for rods as well
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Old 07-29-2016, 05:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Google it and find what other people used and how it worked out for them.
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:43 AM   #6 (permalink)
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As long as you arent too tight, it will "work", and run.

Plastigauge and make sure nothing is too tight, make sure nothing binds when its assembled, use a lot of assembly lube and you shouldnt have any problems.
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Old 07-30-2016, 08:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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As long as you arent too tight, it will "work", and run.

Plastigauge and make sure nothing is too tight, make sure nothing binds when its assembled, use a lot of assembly lube and you shouldnt have any problems.
Well got my block and head back from the machine shop, the machineshop decked the block, pressure tested the block and honed the cylinders(told me to get standard size rings). The head was resurfaced and pressure tested.

As I started the rebuild, I started installing the pistons with the new rings(Endyn) and noticed that the pistons are hard to move, although I can push them down or up by hand I takes a bit moreee force.(ring gap is within spec)

So I finished the build, all my rods/mains came within spec according to plastigauge, and torqued everything within spec aswell... Although the crank does spin without any resistance, those pistons rings sure make it hard to spin the crank by hand... Now the question is whats the BEST way to break in an engine?
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Did you check the ring end gap and file them as needed? Did you lubricate the cylinder walls?
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Old 07-31-2016, 01:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Did you check the ring end gap and file them as needed? Did you lubricate the cylinder walls?
Yeah I lubed the walls... But... Correct me if im wrong (im at work and just remembered...) you check the ring end gab near the bottom of the cylinder right?.... If so well I have to re-check again, since I checked near the top of the cylinder.... Man it sucks working all night.... Cant do **** right during the day..
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Old 07-31-2016, 02:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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most just slide them the depth of the piston in from the top and measure there. lube on the crank and rod bearings should help it rotate smooth. did you mismatch caps?


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Old 07-31-2016, 05:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slo_eg8 View Post
most just slide them the depth of the piston in from the top and measure there. lube on the crank and rod bearings should help it rotate smooth. did you mismatch caps?
Nope caps aren't mismatched.
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