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Old 07-26-2016, 05:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Swap nightmare. Need advice

Bought a z6 motor that was taken apart to do an OEM rebuild

Cracked the head on my D15 so now the build had to be rushed because its my daily.

Went to install APR studs in Z6 block and one of the head stud holes is stripped out. Used a helicoil and it worked. Then I noticed the stud was taller in the corner with the vtec solenoid (should've been a clue) Used washer to fill the gap. (I know not the right way to do it.

Finally got the motor in and the Z6 dizzy doesn't fit. Only the top mount lines up.

So I look at the head casting and realize it's a freaking y8 head.

people say use B7 dizzy. Nope. Only 2 side mounts live up.

Z6 timing belt doesn't fit with the Y8 cam gear without it being really tight also had to swap the tensioner with a smaller one. Buy a y8 timing belt and it way to long.

So now my mechanical timing is a mess. tried using the z6 cam gear and it seems to be alot closer which makes no sense to me at all. .

I cannot get the timing right for the life of me. car runs like crap. I found someone selling a z6 shortblock with a rod threw it for $50.

I don't know if I should buy that head and have everything match or keep trying to mess with the z6/y8

I need some opinion because I am at a loss.
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You should be using matching cam gears and dizzys. I thought the B7 dizzy was supposed to mount to everything except a z6 head. I've had my old b7 dizzy on a y8 motor. The only difference between the z6 and the others is the stupid mount. The internals are the same. As far as the belt, it might have been milled a whole bunch. Or maybe you just need a new tensioner. First try matching dizzys to cam gears.
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:51 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I can get the ignition timed with the Z6 dizzy with one bolt in.

Everything on the block is brand new including the tensioner. the Y8 belt is like inches to long.

I'm more concerned with the mechanical timing. Everything fits great with the z6 belt and cam gear.

I have no idea what plastics I have to set the cam timing since everything seems to be mismatched. I assume it's the y8 plastics.
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Old 07-26-2016, 06:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Y8 arp bolt set has 1 bolt that is suppose to be shorter than the others, this is why you had one too long.

This should help clear up and timing issues you are having:

https://www.d-series.org/forums/gener...ification.html

EDIT: You will need a Y8 dizzy, it is the Z6 is special one to use that mounting style.
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Old 07-26-2016, 06:12 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BeerDrinkin View Post
Y8 arp bolt set has 1 bolt that is suppose to be shorter than the others, this is why you had one too long.

This should help clear up and timing issues you are having:

https://www.d-series.org/forums/gener...ification.html

EDIT: You will need a Y8 dizzy, it is the only one to use that mounting style.
according to that post the z6 tensioner and belt should be the same. the belt fits fine on the z6 gear but I have to force it on the y8 gear.
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Old 07-26-2016, 06:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The gears should be the same size, is the 4.5* of timing difference between the 2 making it harder to slide the belt on?
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Old 07-26-2016, 07:02 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerDrinkin View Post
The gears should be the same size, is the 4.5* of timing difference between the 2 making it harder to slide the belt on?
it maybe. the waterpump wide slides on and it gets tighter towards the front. I had to swap the tensioner for a smaller one even to get that to work.

Someone gave me a z6 adjustable camgear today for free but it's missing the woodruff key. Any idea if its the same size as the crank pulley one?

I may give that a shot before I spend the money on a new head
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Old 07-26-2016, 04:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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go to Honda and buy the key?
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Old 07-26-2016, 04:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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studs follow the block, and yes the z6 has one weird length stud
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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what the hell.

take a second and breathe.

you obviously have parts that are mis-labeled or whatnot.

ARP studs on an OEM rebuild? waste of money.

cracked the 1.5 head? slap the y8 head on the 1.5 block and drive it so you can take a chill pill on the 1.6 block and have it done correctly dude.

time is NOT something that can be short on a block build, whether its just a refresh or a full build
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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If you can get the z6 head for $50 or less honestly save yourself the headache and just buy it. Offer less who cares.
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Old 07-26-2016, 11:15 PM   #12 (permalink)
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y8 cam centerline is 2mm taller than z6, you bought a y8 timing belt which is correct, but now you need to find the correct tensioner to fit the block, i think a d15b might be correct.

I would suggest putting the stock y8 cam gear back on and setting the timing one tooth advanced. As far as the distributor goes, if you can get the timing correct with one bolt in it will be fine like that.

Im having a hard time understanding what you have exactly at your disposal and what parts your putting together?
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Old 07-27-2016, 06:42 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I got it all sorted out now. my parts were all messed up because I trusted the guy I bought the motor from. The dizzy doesn't fit because the guys had a z6 cam cap on the y8 head so the mounting holes were off.

I'm picking up the z6 head today so everything will finally match. Just gotta swap the heads.

It got confusing because I was rushing so lesson learned there
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Old 07-27-2016, 09:27 AM   #14 (permalink)
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haste makes waste. automotive world gets hit hard with the speed mentality quite often.

Alwyas think through a few steps, and in general read any documentation beforehand on any process and you should be good
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Old 07-28-2016, 04:44 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Went to meet the guy yesterday for the z6 head and it was yet again a y8 head. I switched the rocker assembly over. Found out we were doing the valves wrong so we did them right and she runs great now.

Just need to run the wires for vtec. Anyone have any suggestion on where and how to run the wires through the firewall? I tried a few times and can't get them through.

Thank you guys for all your help
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Old 07-28-2016, 10:21 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Theres always a boot that blocks a few holes in your firewall. Have you checked even behind and under the intake manifold? Typically on either side though
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Old 07-28-2016, 10:47 AM   #17 (permalink)
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If your car doesn't have AC then it will have a delete plug in place of the lines going through the firewall.
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Old 07-28-2016, 10:51 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I guess using the oem location where all the wiring goes through the firewall makes too much sense right?
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Old 07-28-2016, 01:58 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I guess using the oem location where all the wiring goes through the firewall makes too much sense right?






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Old 07-28-2016, 03:57 PM   #20 (permalink)
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yeah I tried where the factory harness goes but I could't get it threw. I pulled the AC when I put the motor in because it was't working so I'm just going to use that hole
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