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Old 09-08-2015, 06:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Hey, decided I'd come check out D-series.org in my search for a rebuilt transmission and find out that I need 65 posts to see the classifieds! Dang!

I've used another Honda forum for quite awhile and I have 2 4th Gen Hondas. I have a Hatch and a CRX. The hatch has a B16 and a Garrett .57 trim turbo, basically a money dump. The CRX is mint and staying as factory as possible, which is why I'm looking for a newish trans! It has a mid-high RPM grind in 3rd and it makes it annoying to drive. It likes to be around 1500~ RPM to shift, anything above 2000 and it grinds. So I have to slow shift into third and it isn't fun around town waiting on the RPM to drop to shift.

So I guess I'll look around the site and make some progressive posts!
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:15 AM   #2 (permalink)
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There are classifieds here?
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:49 AM   #3 (permalink)
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welcome to d-so.


if that's the only reason youre here, the door is over there. -->

craiglist. local pick and pull.


if youre going to be a member of this community, your user name has gotten batman's attention. its like youre summoning him. do not post whore
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Old 09-08-2015, 09:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Whoshot View Post
There are classifieds here?
"For Sale Section
To prevent scamming on this website - all users are required to have 65 posts and be registered for 90 days, before they can sell, buy, or trade ANYTHING on our website."

I assume so, it is in the rules haha.

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welcome to d-so.


if that's the only reason youre here, the door is over there. -->

craiglist. local pick and pull.


if youre going to be a member of this community, your user name has gotten batman's attention. its like youre summoning him. do not post whore
I wouldn't say it is the only reason I am here. I've used this site a ton in the past, just never became a member. I usually just search through here, find relevant information, and go on about my way.

As for the craigslist/local pick and pull, those are avenues I am exploring also. I just thought my current search for a d-series transmission would be a good reason to finally become a member on this website.

The batman comment is pretty funny. Freeman is my last name and the user name is a running joke. I don't plan on post whoring, but I'll be posting on topic I have input on. I won't be on every build thread going "Nice build" "clean car" etc etc.



To add to 'why I'm here', the mini-me in my CRX has P29 pistons and a Y8 head on a A6 block. It was rebuilt and assembled about 6 months ago. I'm converting it to OBD1 right now. I really never messed with mini-mes in the past or the stock D15B1 (iirc) in my Hatch.

I plan on keeping it as close to stock as possible. I'll be staying D-series (and NA for that matter) as long as I have this car. It has a working R134A AC system, so she's a keeper!
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Old 09-08-2015, 09:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The point is, there are rules, one of them is the first rule of fight club........

Not only did that get ignored, I know its a rule of the road not really listed, but you then made a point to bring it up first.

We are protective of not the parts, but the sellers and purchasers, if it isnt cool kick rocks, or you could provide some insight and not posts whoring yourself, and we will get to know you and bam....you get classified, and never seen again.

You arent the worst offender today, the crx guy is, but the alert is on today so bare with him, us, whatever.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:08 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The point is, there are rules, one of them is the first rule of fight club........

Not only did that get ignored, I know its a rule of the road not really listed, but you then made a point to bring it up first.

We are protective of not the parts, but the sellers and purchasers, if it isnt cool kick rocks, or you could provide some insight and not posts whoring yourself, and we will get to know you and bam....you get classified, and never seen again.

You arent the worst offender today, the crx guy is, but the alert is on today so bare with him, us, whatever.
I do apologize. I don't mean to step on toes, I was just being honest. I'll be more observant as time goes on. I do plan on being a positive member of the community.

I have no problem spending some time, helping others, finding cool threads, asking questions, etc. I'll eventually get to browse for the trans I'm looking for. It isn't a pressing issue, I just thought this would be THE forum to find a d-series trans. So I thought it was about time to be a member here.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:18 AM   #7 (permalink)
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if it makes you feel better, there arnt any trans for sale......but maybe if you check out our site sponsors? someone who "lurked" for so long and you haven't thought about checking sponsors is fishy
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:19 AM   #8 (permalink)
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There are some transmission rebuild threads on this site and some on Honda tech. I rebuilt my first trams back in December and it was a huge success. You'll just need to rent a couple of specialty tools, a master rebuild kit and you're ready to go.

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Old 09-08-2015, 10:20 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I would love to rebuild my trans when I get a chance, deff dont wanna be forced like most of my work on my car the last couple months.
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Old 09-08-2015, 12:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Rebuild the trans yourself, it's pretty easy. That or learn to double clutch. If you really need a trans go buy one on craigslist or a local facebook parts group.
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Old 09-09-2015, 02:35 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Welcome to. DSO. I've seen your SN on HT
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Old 09-09-2015, 03:09 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slo_eg8 View Post
if it makes you feel better, there arnt any trans for sale......but maybe if you check out our site sponsors? someone who "lurked" for so long and you haven't thought about checking sponsors is fishy
I'm not in a rush to find a trans, I was just hoping I'd eventually stumble upon a nice rebuilt unit or something like that.

As for lurking, I've always found good write ups on this forum for 4th gen cars. I don't really check out sponsors. I don't actually buy a lot of new stuff, mostly second hand.

Quote:
Originally Posted by theft-repo-sol View Post
There are some transmission rebuild threads on this site and some on Honda tech. I rebuilt my first trams back in December and it was a huge success. You'll just need to rent a couple of specialty tools, a master rebuild kit and you're ready to go.
This may be a good idea. I'm just worried about tearing into the trans and starting another big project.

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I would love to rebuild my trans when I get a chance, deff dont wanna be forced like most of my work on my car the last couple months.
This is more or less where I am at. My '89 hatch has been throwing a solid CEL for a year. I've been trouble shooting literally everything and I found out, after replacing the ECU, that my Demon board is what is giving me problems.

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Rebuild the trans yourself, it's pretty easy. That or learn to double clutch. If you really need a trans go buy one on craigslist or a local facebook parts group.
I was attempting to double clutch during my test drive. It seems like just holding the clutch in, letting off the gas, letting the engine slow down, then pushing it into gear works best.

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Welcome to. DSO. I've seen your SN on HT
I've used this SN on HT for a few years now. I didn't know if HT was taboo on here or not. That has been my go to site for awhile, but I thought I'd branch out since I've often come here for information in the past.
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Old 09-09-2015, 03:41 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Push clutch in shift to neutral.
Release clutch.
Push clutch in shift into gear.
Release clutch.
Double clutch.

'Granny shifting, not double clutching like you should, you're lucky that 100 shot of NOS didn't blow the welds on the intake.'
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:12 AM   #14 (permalink)
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P29's and Y8 head?? good luck man. maybe you should have stopped off here before finishing that build.
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:35 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chrisfrom1986 View Post
Push clutch in shift to neutral.
Release clutch.
Push clutch in shift into gear.
Release clutch.
Double clutch.

'Granny shifting, not double clutching like you should, you're lucky that 100 shot of NOS didn't blow the welds on the intake.'
I do understand that. I was just saying that the second technique seemed to work just as well or better. I didn't mean that what I was doing was double clutching.

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P29's and Y8 head?? good luck man. maybe you should have stopped off here before finishing that build.
I didn't build the motor. It was in the car. I've been reading up on that and I've heard varying things. I've read many different things... I'll keep searching though. I really did purchase the CRX because it is extremely clean and every component is taken care of.

EDIT: I've read that the Y8 head on the A6 block with P29 pistons yields like 12:1 compression or something crazy, basically a bomb. I wish I had my chip reader still, I'd see what kind of map he is running. I'll be installing my AEM wideband temporarily to check out the tune. PO said it was tuned.

If the tune is crap, I'll have the car dyno'd or swap to a lower compression piston (stock) and run a map much closer to the stock Z6 map and just do some street tuning for partial throttle.
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Last edited by Freemananana; 09-09-2015 at 06:13 AM.
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:49 AM   #16 (permalink)
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12:1 compression isnt anything to worry about. Its HOW it gets that compression.

a P29 dome piston inside a Y8 chamber is detonation waiting to happen.

a dished d16a6 piston inside a severely sliced PM3 cylinder head (88-95 nonvtec 16valve) making 13:1 compression would last a LOOOONG with the correct tune


EDIT as for transmission grind, did you go through teh basics? Fluid quality, checked clutch fork for damage, hear any noises with clutch engaged anjd disengaged, etc..

LOTS of times, tranny grind is solvable with better fluid.
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Old 09-09-2015, 10:09 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Also all the d16 blocks have the same deck height. so the block is the same as the y8 block. to keep it simple for searching. its a y8 motor with p29's in it. also like it was stated; its how you get the compresion not how much you have(to a point) flat top pistons, 0-ptd and a very miled head is the best way to get comp.
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Old 09-09-2015, 10:52 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
12:1 compression isnt anything to worry about. Its HOW it gets that compression.

a P29 dome piston inside a Y8 chamber is detonation waiting to happen.

a dished d16a6 piston inside a severely sliced PM3 cylinder head (88-95 nonvtec 16valve) making 13:1 compression would last a LOOOONG with the correct tune


EDIT as for transmission grind, did you go through teh basics? Fluid quality, checked clutch fork for damage, hear any noises with clutch engaged anjd disengaged, etc..

LOTS of times, tranny grind is solvable with better fluid.
I didn't check the fluid or clutch fork. I did listen for noise when pressing the clutch and releasing it. I didn't hear anything outside of the pedal moving. Replacing the fluid is easy though and I'll be doing regular service here shortly. The car is definitely drivable with the trans in the current state. When driving regularly and shifting slowly into 3rd, there is no grinding. The trans also doesn't pop out of any gear.

I suppose I should have done more reading on the mini-me combo he had put together. To me, it was just a mini me. It drove fine and nothing seemed out of the ordinary while I test drove it or drove it home. I had never read up on D-series builds. I've read up on it and I may be looking to just swap the pistons for stock A6 pistons, dropping the compression down to 10:1 and run something closer to a stock tune.

I've also looked into synchrotech trans rebuild kits and rebuilt transmissions.

I'm going to take a look at the motor and make sure it isn't a Z6 head or anything like that. That's a much better situation, correct?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evanguy View Post
Also all the d16 blocks have the same deck height. so the block is the same as the y8 block. to keep it simple for searching. its a y8 motor with p29's in it. also like it was stated; its how you get the compresion not how much you have(to a point) flat top pistons, 0-ptd and a very miled head is the best way to get comp.
Good to know. I've noticed that all the d16 blocks are labeled the same on compression calculators. The issue is the piston domes then, right? I've never delved into the NA world.

Just some more on the tune. It idles right around 1,000 RPM just fine. It never dips when coasting or anything like that. It accelerates fine, no noticeable misfires. It doesn't skip a beat. I drove it for a hour or so home after the ~30 minute test drive.

I'm completely new to the built D-series stuff. So I'll keep reading up on this stuff. A lot of the threads I'm finding are older.
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Old 09-09-2015, 12:49 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Apologizing in advance, I'm posting from my mobile because our internet is down.

If I purchase stock p2p pistons and remove the p29s, I'd essentially just have a D16Y8, right? A6 block, y8 head, y8 pistons, a6 rods, z6 intake.

Would a different head be a better idea?

As for the trans fluid. If I were to change it, what would you guys suggest? I've used what the manual calls for in the past (motor oil), but does that change for a trans that grinds? There are two options I'm considering, but that debate always gets out of hand.
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Old 09-09-2015, 01:22 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Well in my eyes, dseries head go in this order; Z6(jdmd15b), A6(d15b7), d16y8

Block are all the same for d16's

Intake manifold; Z6(d15b), Y8, A6(d15b7 obd1 verson)

pistons pm3, pg6, pm6

D16 rods are the same.

So yes you will have a y8 with a better intakemanifold
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