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Old 08-05-2015, 09:34 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default D16Z6 wont start after timing belt snapped

D16Z6 swapped in 90 Si converted to OBD0. My timing belt snapped and my valves got bent so i had a machine shop redo my head crispy clean.. yeah.. Threw on a new belt and headgasket.. aligned the arrow on my oil pump with the groove on my crank gear to have my bottom end on TDC.. My cylinder head turned cam gear to up position with the pointer on the bottom aligned for VTEC model. I rotated my engine a few times by hand to make sure no locking up feom valves hitting pistons.and all good there. Finished putting everything all back together and my engine just cranks no start.. note that everything worked fine before. Any help guys would be appreciated. I have so far checked all wiring.. checked continuity for wires on injectors to ecu.. checked distributor wiring.. map sensor wiring..idk
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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1.Are you getting spark?
2.Are you getting fuel?
3.Is the fuel pump priming? I guess this kinda of goes with no.2

The fuel pump and dizzy work or they dont work, and yes they can just stop working with out any warning
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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grounds attached?
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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grounds attached?
Yea what he said^^^^^
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:23 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Verify Firing order?
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:43 AM   #6 (permalink)
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3 things an engine needs to start..

Fuel
Spark
Compression

Find out which one you don't have.
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Old 08-05-2015, 02:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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3 things an engine needs to start..

Fuel
Spark
Compression

Find out which one you don't have.
And they need to happen at the right time!
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Old 08-05-2015, 03:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Tw34k View Post
3 things an engine needs to start..

Fuel
Spark
Compression

Find out which one you don't have.
Its not 3 anymore. Fuel, Air, Compression, Timing and Spark
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Old 08-06-2015, 06:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply guys i appreciate your help.. i have played with my engine some more and no luck still.. Here is some of what i have gone over.

1. Grounds all look fine. The only grounds i removed were the one on the valve cover and the negative on the battery but checked the one on the thermostat is fine..and negative ground is good and the transmission ground is good too.

2. Spark.. i got determined and had the engine cranked and tested each spark plug while plugged in the wire and held close by an exhaust manifold stud and tested each plug and got spark from all four.

3. Fuel.. as i took out each spark plug to test for spark each plug had light fuel so that tells me i am getting fuel to each chamber.

I turned my engine to tdc again and loosened my tensioner removing my belt and turned the bottom end one full rotation checking this by putting my dip stick in cylinder 1 to check bottom end for tdc. Reinstalled everything and nothing. Re did this again and nothing. I read something i think somewhere that the bottom rotated twice and the top once so thought maybe i was off a rotation.. idk.. What do you guys think?
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Old 08-06-2015, 06:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Set engine at TDC #1 on compression, remove dist. cap and verify rotor is at #1 terminal.

You could have spun/damaged the OEM cam gear, thus never being able to properly time the cam.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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So take it to remove my number one spark plug and verify with my dipstick again turning crank to find compression tdc.. and the dis cap is the rotor supposed to point to where number 1 wire goes?
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:57 PM   #12 (permalink)
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that's what he said. also, did you do a compression test? bend any valves?
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Old 08-07-2015, 07:29 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Hopefully it didn't fry your ecu that happened to my sisters eclipse when her belt broke
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Old 08-07-2015, 07:30 AM   #14 (permalink)
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^How the fuck is that?
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Old 08-07-2015, 10:35 AM   #15 (permalink)
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^How the fuck is that?
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Old 08-07-2015, 01:44 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Hopefully it didn't fry your ecu that happened to my sisters eclipse when her belt broke



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Thanks for the reply guys i appreciate your help.. i have played with my engine some more and no luck still.. Here is some of what i have gone over.

1. Grounds all look fine. The only grounds i removed were the one on the valve cover and the negative on the battery but checked the one on the thermostat is fine..and negative ground is good and the transmission ground is good too.

2. Spark.. i got determined and had the engine cranked and tested each spark plug while plugged in the wire and held close by an exhaust manifold stud and tested each plug and got spark from all four.

3. Fuel.. as i took out each spark plug to test for spark each plug had light fuel so that tells me i am getting fuel to each chamber.

I turned my engine to tdc again and loosened my tensioner removing my belt and turned the bottom end one full rotation checking this by putting my dip stick in cylinder 1 to check bottom end for tdc. Reinstalled everything and nothing. Re did this again and nothing. I read something i think somewhere that the bottom rotated twice and the top once so thought maybe i was off a rotation.. idk.. What do you guys think?
So of the basics, this leaves compression; Have you checked valve lash since the head was reassembled? How about a compression test?

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Old 08-07-2015, 03:14 PM   #17 (permalink)
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when cylinder 1 at TDC, rotor have to be against wire number 1, the only cam shoving you spark timing, and if your cam also at right spot - the all four valves at first cylinders have to be closed, this is actually the position too adjust valve lash at cylinder number 1.

you can hook up the air compressor through spark plug hole to verify if it holds some air pressure it should hold till cylinder goes down when you rotate crank counter clockwise, when cylinder starts to go up again, the air will escape through exhaust valves and you will loose the pressure.

Crank just have to be first cylinder up. You are right to using dip stick for make sure you at TDC
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Old 08-07-2015, 09:05 PM   #18 (permalink)
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A D16Z6 has it's own distributor, so my guess is it's an obd1 dizzy that's been converted. Check that you have the wires correct. However it sounds like it was converted before the belt snapped & running OBD0.

That leaves 3 things: compression, firing order, and timing. Make sure you adjusted the valve lash correctly. If it's too tight you'll get no compression. Next firing order - I've had people argue till the cows came home that their wires were on correct despite the pictures on the factory service manual saying otherwise - it is very common. The last, ignition timing, is crucial and commonly messed up. If they shaved the head then your timing is slightly retarded due to the shorter deck rotating the cam backwards. You'd have to move the distributor slightly closer to the firewall (rotate opposite way the engine turns) to correct that. If it was off a few degrees & compression was low then it would be very hard to start.

One other unlikely thing could be fuel pressure. You may get some fuel but not nearly enough. It's the least likely thing since the pump has nothing to do with your head repair - unless the car sat for several months. If it sat for a while then you likely have bad fuel in the system and have to remove it all & flush the injectors (carb cleaner works).
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Old 08-10-2015, 08:36 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Still no luck starting my car up.. I converted my car to OBD1 and had been running fine for over a year now. I do have OBD1 Injectors and Distributor. My car has sat now a few weeks. Here is some updates

- Compression.. i have not checked for compression seeing no need to because my pistons are fine after belt snapped. I should check compression though to see if valves are kept closed perhaps.

- Some questions about the head..the head was shaven slightly but according to the guy who woked my cylinder head said would not affect it because of the small amount taken down where the gasket imprint stains are still visible and i could use a stock replacement gasket.

- Valve lash i do not know how to check or work as why i had a professional redo in the first place.

- i did take my distributor cap off while cam is set on tdc my ignition rotor points to number one.. as far as my fire order i never mixed around my wires leaving plugged to cap and i have NGK wires and went over fire order just to double check and all good.
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Old 08-10-2015, 08:49 PM   #20 (permalink)
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why don't you do a compression check? why don't you get the valves checked?
why haven't you found a factory service manual to download and do a troubleshoot?
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