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Old 05-10-2015, 02:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Rebuild or swap?

I picked up a 1993 civic ex coupe for 650, it's complete and runs...(shitty) lol
Well the d16z6 has a blown head gasket, and the previous owner let the motor over heat until it shut off on him, there seems to be metal shaving in the cylinder head nut sure.. Would a rebuild be cheaper to do or a swap?
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Old 05-10-2015, 02:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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you would be taking your chances with a swap, not knowing what issues it had. but it would be cheaper than having someone rebuild your engine.
are you sure theres metal in the oil? how warped is the head? how do the sleeves look?
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Old 05-10-2015, 03:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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rebuilding would be probably 3x as much but you would know that its solid and set to go another 250k miles. getting a used swap you never know what condition its in.
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Old 05-10-2015, 05:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by slo_eg8 View Post
you would be taking your chances with a swap, not knowing what issues it had. but it would be cheaper than having someone rebuild your engine.
are you sure theres metal in the oil? how warped is the head? how do the sleeves look?
I actually want to rebuild it myself, it would be my first rebuild, ive been looking at the DNJ kit on RockAuto, the master rebuild kit goes for $317.00

When i pull out the dipstick there's particles on it pretty sure its metal

cant tell if the head is warped because i dont have the tool ha
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Old 05-10-2015, 05:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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rebuilding would be probably 3x as much but you would know that its solid and set to go another 250k miles. getting a used swap you never know what condition its in.
alright cool man, so fursure i would have to get the block hot tanked, hone, and idk what else ha
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Old 05-10-2015, 05:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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have you guys ever replaced a lower ball joint without the using a ball joint press?
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Old 05-10-2015, 05:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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alright cool man, so fursure i would have to get the block hot tanked, hone, and idk what else ha
don't forget decking the block if it isn't flat, decking the head if it isn't flat, making sure the cam is ok if the head was warped.



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have you guys ever replaced a lower ball joint without the using a ball joint press?

your google fu sucks bro. get better at it, or all this help will bring a red dot.


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Last edited by slo_eg8; 05-10-2015 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 05-10-2015, 05:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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have you guys ever replaced a lower ball joint without the using a ball joint press?
sure ) you should search more!
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Old 05-10-2015, 05:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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don't forget decking the block if it isn't flat, decking the head if it isn't flat, making sure the cam is ok if the head was warped.






your google fu sucks bro. get better at it, or all this help will bring a red dot.


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thank you every much for the info
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Old 05-10-2015, 08:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I use the 4x4 ball joint tool from harborfreight. The most expensive part of the rebuild will be the machine work. You first step will be to strip the head and block down. My local shop charges $45 each for the head and block to be cleaned and checked. They will be able to tell you what size pistons you will need and if either are useable.
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Old 05-11-2015, 10:35 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I use the 4x4 ball joint tool from harborfreight. The most expensive part of the rebuild will be the machine work. You first step will be to strip the head and block down. My local shop charges $45 each for the head and block to be cleaned and checked. They will be able to tell you what size pistons you will need and if either are useable.
the local manchine shop is charging me 100 to wash, hone and surface the block. And 30 to cut the head if the cam is already removed. 45 if you leave the cam in.

and shouldnt the standard piston fit ?


what you think
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Old 05-11-2015, 10:37 AM   #12 (permalink)
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If the walls check out after the dial bore gauge measurement, then yes, stock pistons should work fine.
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Old 05-11-2015, 10:51 AM   #13 (permalink)
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the local manchine shop is charging me 100 to wash, hone and surface the block. And 30 to cut the head if the cam is already removed. 45 if you leave the cam in.

and shouldnt the standard piston fit ?


what you think
Thats a pretty good price for all that work, as long as the shop has a good standing. Id have them check it over before any work is performed on the engine. Rebuilding an engine isnt as hard as everyone makes it out to be, especially if your just putting stock parts back in. Google is your friend, use it, use it often, use it and own it like its your bitch! YouTube will help out as well. You may get stressed out at times, but its always an amazing feeling when you turn the key and hear that bad boy fire up for the first time. Good luck with the build.
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Old 05-11-2015, 10:53 AM   #14 (permalink)
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^^^

Yep

I had my fingers crossed when I started mine up for the 1st time.


but after driving it for 10k miles now, Its a great feeling riding in an engine you built with your own 2 hands.






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Old 05-11-2015, 10:57 AM   #15 (permalink)
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^^^

Yep

I had my fingers crossed when I started mine up for the 1st time.


but after driving it for 10k miles now, Its a great feeling riding in an engine you built with your own 2 hands.
Also remember to remove the 1/2" drive and socket from the crank pulley before starting it up. That sudden CLANK makes your heart stop! Go ahead ask me how i know!
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:15 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Also remember to remove the 1/2" drive and socket from the crank pulley before starting it up. That sudden CLANK makes your heart stop! Go ahead ask me how i know!

Ive done that more than once lol

Like i said before... Have the machine shop check it first. Your cylinder walls may be too worn down to reuse stock pistons. The last one i sent in was borderline so i bought .5mm over pistons
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:29 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Count on oversized pistons and hopefully the crank is still in good shape with some washed out bearings. Then off to the machine shop and get the deck and head cut straight and washed out. Hopefully this isn't your only car as you should take the time to build this right and double check everything.
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:49 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Also remember to remove the 1/2" drive and socket from the crank pulley before starting it up. That sudden CLANK makes your heart stop! Go ahead ask me how i know!
thats not fun ,good thing I was only using the 3/8 drive ,it broke the end off the extension ...I will never let me live it down.

Also ,
I have never liked using engine parts that have been in an overheated engine brought to the point of shutting itself down ,everything inside the engine usually gets pretty thrashed in the process .

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Old 05-13-2015, 10:24 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks mofos
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