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Old 08-01-2019, 08:13 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Full Throttle/Acceleration Issues

This might already be a topic.. But I'm too much in a hurry to figure this shit out to search all over.

I have a 00 Civic EX, D16y8 5 M/T, Full Bolt ons besides header and stock ECU with a ton of OEM replaced parts for maintenance.

My issues are that from off the start and in any gear, under 3000-3200 is a big groggy and I can feel hesitation and lack of acceleration.
(Brand new OEM TPS, MAP, Timing belt, O2 sensors, Spark plugs, NAPA OEM Replacement Distributor and NGK Wires)

And along with that, Full throttle or about 96%+ the car 'hits a wall' or acts like a limiter at any RPMs at any speed.
(OEM Fuel Filter has been replaced)

If you guys have any Personal experience with this or have any recommendations please help a guy out.
Only things I've yet to replace are Injectors, Fuel Pump, Regulator.. anything fuel related besides the filter and the Head has 40k on it from being OEM replaced before I owned it by a good friend of mine)

Performance: Aem Intake w/Brand new Filter, Blox 70mm Tb, Skunk2 Street Manifold w/ Hondata thermal gasket, Yonaka Catback, NO TUNE STOCK ECU

Thanks
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Old 08-01-2019, 10:36 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Cam timing could be off, as well as ignition timing, but a host of the added parts caused the engine to lose power.

"Blox 70mm Tb, Skunk2 Street Manifold"
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Old 08-01-2019, 11:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Got all that air coming in but not enough exhaust to get it out.
The engine is choking.

Also double check your timing.
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Old 08-02-2019, 08:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by transzex View Post
Cam timing could be off, as well as ignition timing, but a host of the added parts caused the engine to lose power.

"Blox 70mm Tb, Skunk2 Street Manifold"
When I changed my Timing belt and alternator just 2 weeks ago we made sure to triple check the came timing and Ignition timing. And the added parts I do know without a tune will serve a problem. But I don't want to go get a tune and find out it's not the tune and waste my time, gas and tuners time.
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Old 08-04-2019, 01:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinobiEJ8 View Post
When I changed my Timing belt and alternator just 2 weeks ago we made sure to triple check the came timing and Ignition timing. And the added parts I do know without a tune will serve a problem. But I don't want to go get a tune and find out it's not the tune and waste my time, gas and tuners time.
Were you experiencing this problem prior to changing the timing belt?
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Old 08-11-2019, 03:11 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EFB055 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinobiEJ8 View Post
When I changed my Timing belt and alternator just 2 weeks ago we made sure to triple check the came timing and Ignition timing. And the added parts I do know without a tune will serve a problem. But I don't want to go get a tune and find out it's not the tune and waste my time, gas and tuners time.
Were you experiencing this problem prior to changing the timing belt?
Yes I was. I thought it was my TDC crank sensor and I did replace that with a brand new OEM unit, But that didn't fix it.
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Old 08-11-2019, 01:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Did you calibrate the TPS when you installed it?
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Old 08-12-2019, 02:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Did you calibrate the TPS when you installed it?
Yes fully calibrated, Even when I didn't have it Calibrated the first time I replaced it, Never did anything like this
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Old 08-12-2019, 05:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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fuel pressure?!
could be a bad FPR
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Old 08-14-2019, 06:05 AM   #10 (permalink)
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fuel pressure?!
could be a bad FPR
Yea, I haven't touched anything fuel related besides the filter which was done March of last year. Don't think anything was replaced in all 3 ownerships before me aswell besides injector and TB cleanings
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Old 08-14-2019, 08:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Does your check engine light work normally, meaning does it come on for the two seconds at key on then go off? Have you checked for codes at all?

There are some codes that can set that do not keep a solid CEL on if the problem is intermittent, but can stay stored during a run cycle if the problem occurred as an intermittent and you didn't turn the key off yet.

Drive it, get the issue to happen, then check for possible intermittent stored codes BEFORE turning the key off.
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Do you have a wideband, EGT, or knock sensor to see what possibly could be happening in there?
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