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Old 04-17-2019, 08:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Should I pull this Y5 trans from the junkyard?

Was at the junkyard today checking out all the new Hondas they just got

There was a 99 Civic HX with 5 speed manual trans. Looks like the only thing missing was the VTEC solenoid (ya'kno the VTEC solenoids are gone so quick in every Honda this place gets)

I don't need the trans.. but I'd like to have it. If not just to stockpile it along with the rest of my Honda stuffs. Maybe sell it

The HX/Y5 trans is nearly identical to the DX/Y7 trans with the only difference being a lower final drive ratio: 3.722 vs 4.058

I could pull it during the Friday sale for $85

What about the cyl head? The ECU? Should I snag those too? I have an addiction.. I hate seeing all this nice Honda stuff go to waste eventually getting CRUSHED
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Old 04-18-2019, 02:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I myself collect z6, y8, and a6 parts mostly my self. I don't bother with the non si/ex parts if you don't actually need them at the time.

I can buy whole civics that are too rusty to for safety for scrap cost. If I tow it away normally 100$
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Old 04-18-2019, 05:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I wouldn't bother with that trans, gearing is too long to be enjoyable/usable if your looking for performance at all.
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Old 04-18-2019, 05:54 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Evan or Beer would the case itself be useful for .3937" (10mm) at that price if in the future he wanted to build a trans?

I'm not a transman but I know you two are
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Old 04-18-2019, 08:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Yes the case I useful if one wanted to build a transmission. But for 85$ to save for a " one day maybe" kinda thing doesn't seem worth it. If it's getting.crushed you should get it for.20$ for.scrap weight. That s the best way to buy old oem Honda parts..

I wouldn't take any of it really. If it was free I'd take the wiring harness, dizzy and maybe starter.

Cluster if it has a tech and is free. Up here that kills stiff so fast so I also take parts that others wouldnt.

Like.floor pans, rockers and quarters. If I plan in running a 6th gen for a while. You should see the 4th arts I have lol. I literly.will.keep any part that comes from a 4th gen.

In 30 years they wi be even harder.to find.
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Old 04-18-2019, 09:43 AM   #6 (permalink)
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maybe i should have mentioned my intentions for this trans is definitely not performance, heh. one day i wanna restore an old honda enough to make it decently comfy as a dd/beater with the goal of maximum mpgs (50+) & not worrying about it getting wrecked, scratched, or dinged up

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I can buy whole civics that are too rusty to for safety for scrap cost. If I tow it away normally 100$
if i could find those i would have a Honda graveyard

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Originally Posted by 79hilux90crx View Post
Evan or Beer would the case itself be useful for .3937" (10mm) at that price if in the future he wanted to build a trans?
the thing i'm after the most in this trans is the super low final drive for highway cruising

i do have a y7 sitting on the floor i just pulled from my car when i got that z6. so that's my project trans for now

Last edited by 10mm; 04-18-2019 at 09:48 AM.
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Old 04-18-2019, 10:12 AM   #7 (permalink)
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You needs revs to get good fuel mileage. If you are too low you are lugging and loading the engine.


Really throttle angle burns gas NOT rpm. So 5% throttle at 3500 rpm is better then 15% throttle at 2000rpm.

Max torque is where you want to cruse. The least throttle angle and also peak VE of the motor.

Throttle angle affects VE. It's hard to expand but this idea if 2000rpm highway cursing is going to waste fuel.

Long story short. It's throttle angle that effects gas milage. Not rpms, look at a fuel map it's clear as day.

The more vacuume you have the less fuel you are burning.
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Old 04-18-2019, 10:30 AM   #8 (permalink)
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ya i am familiar with all that, one of the things i wanted to make was an analog vacuum gauge to mount next to the tach. but i just trusted Honda engineered the y5 trans ratios optimally. we could really get into a deep discussion about what ratio is perfect for maximum mpg and start talking about aero, wheel size, windy days, ride height, suspension stiffness... i'm mainly trying to optimize maximum mpg for long nonstop cruises at 80 mph
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Old 04-18-2019, 10:31 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evanguy View Post
You needs revs to get good fuel mileage. If you are too low you are lugging and loading the engine.


Really throttle angle burns gas NOT rpm. So 5% throttle at 3500 rpm is better then 15% throttle at 2000rpm.

Max torque is where you want to cruse. The least throttle angle and also peak VE of the motor.

Throttle angle affects VE. It's hard to expand but this idea if 2000rpm highway cursing is going to waste fuel.

Long story short. It's throttle angle that effects gas milage. Not rpms, look at a fuel map it's clear as day.

The more vacuume you have the less fuel you are burning.
What if you have a turbo is this still true? The vacuum that is?
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Old 04-18-2019, 10:43 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Sorry that is all NA.
I'm not sure about the turbo. But of you are in VAC then your not in boost so I cant see why it wouldn't be the same. Your fuel map will show you rpm vs load (vac or lack of it) vs spay time. The longer the spray the more fuel.

I find for NA sub 2.0 4 cylinder Stockish DD cars cruzin at half the red line to be the best spot for fuel usage (my 05 echo revs to 6k, I drive this car at around 3k or above(highway in 5th) if not accelerating or slowing down.)

Honda an Toyota know what they are doing, they make them cruse at highway speeds at peak VE for a reason.
Small engine has to be used correctly. (Let then rev a little)


Under light load cruse you can run upwards of 21:1 af's. As soon as you start to add load (or dip the throttle and make it do work) you need to bring them back to 15:1 ish

Edit to add.
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Originally Posted by 10mm View Post
ya i am familiar with all that, one of the things i wanted to make was an analog vacuum gauge to mount next to the tach. but i just trusted Honda engineered the y5 trans ratios optimally. we could really get into a deep discussion about what ratio is perfect for maximum mpg and start talking about aero, wheel size, windy days, ride height, suspension stiffness... i'm mainly trying to optimize maximum mpg for long nonstop cruises at 80 mph
Oh yeah that is very true. I some how missed the above quote before I related above. You can do what ever you like. And if the ground is flat and no traffic then lower rpms Wil be better in that case. And I missed the 80 miles an hour part Even with the loner gears you still will be in the rpm zone im taking about at those speeds.
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Old 04-18-2019, 05:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You have a lot of pumping losses with minor throttle and high rpms.

A LOOONG gearset mixed with higher load on the motor (aka, needing mroe throttle) is actually beneficial with most hondas.

Just the way honda happened to tune them.

the HX tranny would be perfect for a gas mileage build.

Ultimately, lower rpms, with more throttle opening beats minor throttle and high rpms at fuel efficiency.


If you actually want better gas mileage, look into bolting up the throttlebody and intake manifold of the matching OBD fuel economy cars, namely d15z1 for OBD1, or d16y5 for OBD2.

The d16y5 intake manifold LOOKS like a d16y8, hence why so many ebay sellers fake the funk when selling them, but they use a much smaller throttlebody and smaller intake runners.
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Old 04-19-2019, 02:26 AM   #12 (permalink)
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There is a fine line between to much revs and too much load. Most often people stick these cars in 5 at 40mph and try at drive around at 1800rpm.

The smaller the engine the more it needs to rev to be efficient. They dont make any power down low. So dont use them down low. Where a motor makes peak VE is important to fuel efficientcy

Your not going to drive an r6 under 3000 and your not going to drive a diesel over 3000 even if they may the same power. Due to where they make the power in the curve.

And I agree with the y5 IM the smaller the ports lowers where the motor makes torque. Helping the lower rpm


There is reason most Honda's and Toyota's rev at over 3000 rpm on the highway. Why wouldn't they put in a long 5 for highway cursing to bring rpms to 1800.

Cars normally get best gas mileage on the highway dispite the wind and road resistance. Most smaller 4 cylinder cars rev near 3k at 70mph in fith.
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Old 04-19-2019, 07:22 AM   #13 (permalink)
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i can't help myself. i'm off to the junkyard again. im gonna take that hx trans






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Old 04-19-2019, 11:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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this thing makes quick work of the 'bitch pin':



P4A/B000 with the 3.722 final drive 3500 rpm at 92 mph:



3rd/4th fork & sleeve look good:







not much on the magnet:





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Old 04-20-2019, 12:22 AM   #15 (permalink)
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3-4 sleeve and fork are junk
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Old 04-20-2019, 09:26 AM   #16 (permalink)
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3-4 sleeve and fork are junk
would u mind going into a little detail about what's wrong? i figured it wasn't too terrible compared to my Y7:

https://www.d-series.org/forums/tran...ml#post5151285
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Old 04-20-2019, 12:37 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Look at the shift fork. It is grooved.

Should be a squared off edge, not a grooved edge.

Sleeve appears non-square edged as well. But I am not experienced enough to make that call.
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Old 04-20-2019, 08:49 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
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would u mind going into a little detail about what's wrong? i figured it wasn't too terrible compared to my Y7:

https://www.d-series.org/forums/tran...ml#post5151285
They are both trashed, typical failure of 96-00 3-4.
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Old 04-22-2019, 11:50 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Junk everything but the case, rust.
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Old 04-22-2019, 12:02 PM   #20 (permalink)
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bone or aqua, either one of you want to take a little bit of time and explain what you see to those of us who have no idea what youre looking at? take me back to kindergarden and teach me please
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turbo d16z6
.42/.48 garrett
je pistons, eagle rods, y7 lsd trans w/4.3fd
koni yellow/gc coils
uber rare eg6 optional snowflakes

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new 95 ej1.
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