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Old 08-15-2018, 03:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default fuel pump not priming, works outside of car

So i have a Walbro GSS342 255lph and the thing doesnt want to prime.
ive already checked the thermostat housing ground, main relay, and if the pump is even receiving power which it is.

the part that has me really confused is that even though the pump is receiving full power from the battery, it doesnt do anything. yet when i plug it to a 12v car battery outside of the car using wires to the terminals, it springs to life.

can anyone help?
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Old 08-15-2018, 03:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If the connector is receiving power on IGN 2, check continuity to ground at the ground pin. Check the voltage across the hot and ground pin at the connector, see what you're getting.
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Old 08-15-2018, 03:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by EFB055 View Post
If the connector is receiving power on IGN 2, check continuity to ground at the ground pin. Check the voltage across the hot and ground pin at the connector, see what you're getting.
pardon my lack of knowledge, how exactly do i test that? All ive tested is the voltage at the connector for the fuel pump.. it gets full 12v for the 2 seconds the pump is supposed to prime.
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Old 08-15-2018, 04:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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seems pretty simple.

You have voltage at the pump harness.

You need to complete the circuit.


Look for a broken spot or a pinched spot on the pump harness.


Worst case, the ground strap inside the pump hanger came loose
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Old 08-15-2018, 04:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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seems pretty simple.

You have voltage at the pump harness.

You need to complete the circuit.


Look for a broken spot or a pinched spot on the pump harness.


Worst case, the ground strap inside the pump hanger came loose
i pulled the pump hanger out of the tank and it was nice and tight, the issue isnt there. Where is the most likely case to have a break or pinch in the harness?
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Old 08-15-2018, 04:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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pardon my lack of knowledge, how exactly do i test that? All ive tested is the voltage at the connector for the fuel pump.. it gets full 12v for the 2 seconds the pump is supposed to prime.
You need a multimeter, set it to DC voltage, unplug the connector from the fuel pump, put one probe in the hot pin, one pin in the ground pin. You should see around 12v momentarily when the ignition is switched to IGN 2.

If you're not seeing 12v, remove the probe from the ground pin, and hold it against an earth on the chassis (seatbelt bolts/door strikes etc). Test again and you should see 12v. If you see 12v here, the hot side is fine, and you're having a ground issue.

To confirm, place the probe into the connector into the ground pin, set the multimeter to check for continuity, and hold the other probe against an earth on the chassis. If there is an open in the circuit you will not get a reading.

Out of interest, does the motor turn over (not start, just crank)when you turn the key to START?

Give that a crack and report back.
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Old 08-15-2018, 06:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EFB055 View Post
You need a multimeter, set it to DC voltage, unplug the connector from the fuel pump, put one probe in the hot pin, one pin in the ground pin. You should see around 12v momentarily when the ignition is switched to IGN 2.

If you're not seeing 12v, remove the probe from the ground pin, and hold it against an earth on the chassis (seatbelt bolts/door strikes etc). Test again and you should see 12v. If you see 12v here, the hot side is fine, and you're having a ground issue.

To confirm, place the probe into the connector into the ground pin, set the multimeter to check for continuity, and hold the other probe against an earth on the chassis. If there is an open in the circuit you will not get a reading.

Out of interest, does the motor turn over (not start, just crank)when you turn the key to START?

Give that a crack and report back.
ok so i just tested ground continuity and i got 12v the first time. when i put one pin to the chassis and the other to the hot pin i get 0 ohms meaning i have continuity. i also set the meter to beep when the leads touch meaning when its a closed loop, which it does when i put it to the connector.

the engine turns over, just never starts. theres 0 pressure in the fuel lines and there is 0 fuel getting to the motor.
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Old 08-15-2018, 06:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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multimeter should never report 0 ohms.

set to resistance, simply touch the probe ends together. Should read 0.05 to 0.2 ohms, give or take.

Another trick to verify multimeter is working, find a resistor that you know the value of.

Probe the resistor for the value.


Im guessing with an ohm check, you dont have the beeping circuti test setting? not all multimeters have this, especially if its a cheaper one.
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Old 08-15-2018, 07:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by domoisback View Post
ok so i just tested ground continuity and i got 12v the first time. when i put one pin to the chassis and the other to the hot pin i get 0 ohms meaning i have continuity. i also set the meter to beep when the leads touch meaning when its a closed loop, which it does when i put it to the connector.

the engine turns over, just never starts. theres 0 pressure in the fuel lines and there is 0 fuel getting to the motor.
You're getting continuity confused with voltage testing (or i'm misinterpreting what you've written).

1) You need to test the ground wire at the connector for continuity to the chassis.
2) you need to test the hot wire for VOLTAGE to the ground wire, and if you're not getting a voltage reading, then check VOLTAGE of the hot wire to the chassis. You should get a voltage reading, not a resistance reading. If you're not getting voltage at either those combinations, then your hot wire is not hot.

Just to confirm: You should not be testing continuity of the hot wire to the chassis

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
multimeter should never report 0 ohms.
It'll show 0 if the multimeter is set to the wrong range (displayed range is outside of the set range).
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Last edited by EFB055; 08-15-2018 at 07:08 PM.
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Old 08-15-2018, 10:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EFB055 View Post
You're getting continuity confused with voltage testing (or i'm misinterpreting what you've written).

1) You need to test the ground wire at the connector for continuity to the chassis.
2) you need to test the hot wire for VOLTAGE to the ground wire, and if you're not getting a voltage reading, then check VOLTAGE of the hot wire to the chassis. You should get a voltage reading, not a resistance reading. If you're not getting voltage at either those combinations, then your hot wire is not hot.

Just to confirm: You should not be testing continuity of the hot wire to the chassis



It'll show 0 if the multimeter is set to the wrong range (displayed range is outside of the set range).
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
multimeter should never report 0 ohms.

set to resistance, simply touch the probe ends together. Should read 0.05 to 0.2 ohms, give or take.

Another trick to verify multimeter is working, find a resistor that you know the value of.

Probe the resistor for the value.


Im guessing with an ohm check, you dont have the beeping circuti test setting? not all multimeters have this, especially if its a cheaper one.

sorry, i just read what i had written, yes i got the proper 12v when testing the VOLTAGE of the connector. I also got the audible beep when testing continuity from the ground wire to the chassis. The ohms wasnt exactly 0 but it was close to it (0.02-0.1) i dont remember exactly so i just said 0 :/

If its even worth mentioning, i did have symptoms of a failing pump. Rough idle, random engine surging at idle, it just doesnt make sense how it works fine outside the car..

Last edited by domoisback; 08-15-2018 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 08-16-2018, 01:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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sorry, i just read what i had written, yes i got the proper 12v when testing the VOLTAGE of the connector. I also got the audible beep when testing continuity from the ground wire to the chassis. The ohms wasnt exactly 0 but it was close to it (0.02-0.1) i dont remember exactly so i just said 0 :/

If its even worth mentioning, i did have symptoms of a failing pump. Rough idle, random engine surging at idle, it just doesnt make sense how it works fine outside the car..
My Walbro did the same thing after the car was sitting a year, when there's no load it ran fine (bench testing), when it had to pressure the fuel rail (in the car), it would seize and stall.

Replaced it with a Deatschwerks, haven't looked back.
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Old 08-16-2018, 02:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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ok so i think the problem may be that the pump isnt getting enough amps... i have no idea why..

Any thoughts?
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Old 08-16-2018, 02:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The pump will draw whatever amps it needs. Sounds like your pump is on the way out.

If you're still not confident with your cars wiring, install the the pump back into the tank, but instead of plugging it into the cars harness, run an auxiliary power and ground so that the pump is on constantly (Make sure you note the polarity, and just use whatever power source you were using for power and ground for bench testing).

Try and start the car.

???

Report back.
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Old 08-16-2018, 03:24 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The pump will draw whatever amps it needs. Sounds like your pump is on the way out.

If you're still not confident with your cars wiring, install the the pump back into the tank, but instead of plugging it into the cars harness, run an auxiliary power and ground so that the pump is on constantly (Make sure you note the polarity, and just use whatever power source you were using for power and ground for bench testing).

Try and start the car.

???

Report back.
ya itll start if i do that but as much as i want a manual switch to turn on the pump in the car its not really something im ready to do until i know where the problem is right now

well i just did an amperage test and this is what i got..

https://youtu.be/Sh53opDSlHo


either its weak as hell or im reading it wrong, but its in the miliamps.... this is great..
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Old 08-16-2018, 04:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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ya itll start if i do that but as much as i want a manual switch to turn on the pump in the car its not really something im ready to do until i know where the problem is right now
Did you actually test that? Or are you assuming it'll run because it ran on the bench?

If it pressures the rail fine and the car runs with the pump connected to an external power source, try running a wire from the hot pin on the connector to the pump +, and run a wire from the ground side of the pump to the chassis.

If the pump runs fine run a wire from the ground side of the pump to the ground pin on the cars connector, and connect the + of the pump to the external power source.

This will identify which side of the circuit is causing a prob.

250mA would be ok if the pump had no load ie: while bench testing. It would be higher if it's pressurizing a fuel rail though. Was this tested with the pump in the tank? Is the pickup submerged in fuel (the pumps not just pumping air)?
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Old 08-18-2018, 01:26 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Did you actually test that? Or are you assuming it'll run because it ran on the bench?

If it pressures the rail fine and the car runs with the pump connected to an external power source, try running a wire from the hot pin on the connector to the pump +, and run a wire from the ground side of the pump to the chassis.

If the pump runs fine run a wire from the ground side of the pump to the ground pin on the cars connector, and connect the + of the pump to the external power source.

This will identify which side of the circuit is causing a prob.

250mA would be ok if the pump had no load ie: while bench testing. It would be higher if it's pressurizing a fuel rail though. Was this tested with the pump in the tank? Is the pickup submerged in fuel (the pumps not just pumping air)?
Ok so the pump DOESNT work when i run a wire from the hot pin of the connector on the harness to the positive terminal of the pump while having the ground on the chassis. However it springs to life when i connect the hot pin of the pump to my battery, with or without the ground connected to the chassis.

im seriously debating bypassing the fuse box with an inline 15 amp fuse, i think the problem is somewhere there because the main relay is receiving power..
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Old 08-19-2018, 01:32 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I FIXED IT.

turned out that the hot wire from the relay was bad. I ended up splicing my own wire from the relay directly to the pump bypassing the fuse box. I also put a 15 amp inline fuse into the new wire i installed.
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Old 08-19-2018, 01:51 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I FIXED IT.

turned out that the hot wire from the relay was bad. I ended up splicing my own wire from the relay directly to the pump bypassing the fuse box. I also put a 15 amp inline fuse into the new wire i installed.
Just make sure you've spliced into the output pin of the main relay, and you're not drawing current from the input side (the ECU), or you'll burn it out.

Also if you've spliced into the correct wire, it's already fused (no need for a secondary fuse).
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