All tests says it should run; yet she sits. - D-series.org

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Old 05-22-2018, 09:24 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default All tests says it should run; yet she sits.

so i'll start out with as much info as i can muster.
1991 honda civic dx d15b2
by all appearances stock; my roommate bought for next to nothing as a basket case and alas here we are. from my inspection prior owner went thru 2 sets of plugs (currently ngk plat) new o.e. wire kit as far as i can tell. new water pump, tensioner, spring, belt. new cap, rotor, coil, icm. fuel filter starter and battery. i have tested and getting plenty of fuel to the manifold. i tested spark from the plug, pre plug, and at the cap with inline tester and thats all dandy. i did a compression test and honestly 120 on all but cyl 4 which was 110 ish i think is good enough at 224*** mi is ok. oil is good and clean. burped coolant multiple times. swapped iacv for known good. checked all vacuum to map ect. the relay in the driver kick panel is good and i hear the pump prime and run as well

All of this tells me that this car should run. but the kicker is; i have timed this by every method i am aware of: long object in cyl 1 (i used the dip stick after cleaning it off) then setting the head. put the crank pulley on point to timing marks (previous owner lost key; i did grind down a new one and fit it in.) as far as setting the head. i have tried everything from the marks on the gear, (matching the head and lower pointer) to removing the valve cover and timing the valves. i even tore apart the distributor and checked all alignments and tested the wires based on the info i have found online, i even made sure the rotor was in the right direction to the cam. even after all of this; i have to advance it 2 teeth for it to even attempt to fire, and any movement in the distributor does nothing to help. when it does decide to run it will only do so at wide open throttle. and whats more; spraying ether does nothing to help or hinder. not sure what else to test at this point.
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Old 05-22-2018, 10:29 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You think it could be electrical grounds?
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Old 05-22-2018, 11:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Check timing again, make sure it is correct and tensioned properly.

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Old 05-22-2018, 02:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Timing, power to injectors?
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Old 05-23-2018, 08:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
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ok so update:

i noticed that my timing gun only lit up when i could hear it trying to start. otherwise it just spun like if i pulled the plugs. i figure intermittent spark. i found a guy sold me ecu, dizzy and under hood harness for $80 so i picked it up. started with the ecm, no dice. the dizzy started trying more and loss of intermittent spark. so i did the timing again (thanks for the pic i like to verify im doing things right) and she almost took. i advanced one tooth and bam she started purring. got a little sewing machine. having some weird noises at the moment that i still need to daig but this way anyone looking for similar problems has an answer.
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Old 05-23-2018, 09:30 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hadjieson View Post
ok so update:

i noticed that my timing gun only lit up when i could hear it trying to start. otherwise it just spun like if i pulled the plugs. i figure intermittent spark. i found a guy sold me ecu, dizzy and under hood harness for $80 so i picked it up. started with the ecm, no dice. the dizzy started trying more and loss of intermittent spark. so i did the timing again (thanks for the pic i like to verify im doing things right) and she almost took. i advanced one tooth and bam she started purring. got a little sewing machine. having some weird noises at the moment that i still need to daig but this way anyone looking for similar problems has an answer.
the head may have been shaved on the motor, removing material from the head brings the cam closer to the crank requiring advancing of the cam to compensate.

one other thing you can try is regapping your TDC and CKP pickup sensors in the dizzy, ive had a few problems with mine over the years where they were just a hair too far from the rotors causing them to lose signal intermittently or to not pickup until the engine was spinning fast enough.i gapped mine where they were about .001-.002 nearly touching and it solved my intermittent CKP CEL code.
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Last edited by cervan; 05-23-2018 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 05-23-2018, 10:15 AM   #7 (permalink)
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thats the weird part. there hasn't been a CEL or code flashing on the ecu. i've gotten a coolant leak fixed and there is an odd noise i'm hearing at higher rpms. BUT she idles (when it fires) i will keep you posted.

and thanks for that, i love specs so if you have any more i don't mind checking things
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Old 05-26-2018, 07:25 AM   #8 (permalink)
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so, i have finally been able to go get another civic (had a 90 crx stolen not long ago.) i was able to snag me up an 89 4dr wagon d15b2 running and driving. started swapping out parts and it turned out my spare iacv has gone to hell and the distributor needed adjusted, but as soon as my roommate gets parts, he will have a running car. hope this helps someone else down the line
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