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Old 02-15-2018, 05:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Clutch does not come off floor

Hello,

I need help diagnosing my clutch issue.

My car is a Turbo d16y8

A few nights ago, i was driving home and my clutch was hesitant once or twice in a 50 mile drive to disengage.

Parked the car overnight and the next day got into it and the clutch was heavier to engage and disengaged very slowly, but still engaged.

Next day i pushed the clutch in for it to not return, instead just stayed on the floor.

Clutch was replaced 4 months ago, Master cylinder was replaced a month ago, slave cylinder was replaced yesterday and it was still not fixed. I bled the lines for over an hour to still no avail.

I'm stumped and have no clue what it could be.

The only thing i can see wrong currently is my hydraulic line has a small kink in it, but i wouldnt think that would cause it to happen basically overnight.

Please help
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Bent/Broken clutch fork. Have someone push in the clutch and watch what happens under the hood at the slave, that should tell you if the master/slave are working properly. Also look at the clutch fork and see if it's cracked or broken.
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:25 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BeerDrinkin View Post
Bent/Broken clutch fork. Have someone push in the clutch and watch what happens under the hood at the slave, that should tell you if the master/slave are working properly. Also look at the clutch fork and see if it's cracked or broken.
Would this really cause it to happen overnight so quickly?
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:30 AM   #4 (permalink)
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It happens over time, you described it getting worse and now not functioning at all. My money is on the fork, it's not a very beefy part. What kind of clutch are you running, I notice you have a turbo so I assume it's not a stock clutch.
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I actually jerk off to my rep points, neg rep makes me thumb my bung, what now brown cow? I finished twice.
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:31 AM   #5 (permalink)
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It happens over time, you described it getting worse and now not functioning at all. My money is on the fork, it's not a very beefy part. What kind of clutch are you running, I notice you have a turbo so I assume it's not a stock clutch.
Yes, it got worse over the span of 48 hours and only driving the car maybe 5 miles. It's an exedy oem replacement clutch
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Old 02-15-2018, 06:03 AM   #6 (permalink)
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It should be easy to figure out, go grab the clutch fork, you shouldn't be able to move it at all. And if you push the clutch in and you see the slave move the clutch fork and there is no resistance than you know that's the issue.

Honda-tech image. They can stress fracture over time, this one has many and one started to tear open.

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I actually jerk off to my rep points, neg rep makes me thumb my bung, what now brown cow? I finished twice.
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Old 02-15-2018, 07:43 AM   #7 (permalink)
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[quote=BeerDrinkin;5126441]It should be easy to figure out, go grab the clutch fork, you shouldn't be able to move it at all. And if you push the clutch in and you see the slave move the clutch fork and there is no resistance than you know that's the issue.

Honda-tech image. They can stress fracture over time, this one has many and one started to tear open.

I'll check this out when i get home.
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Have you tried bleeding the clutch in reverse?

unhook the slave from the trans and fork, open the clutch master cover, and man-handle the slave backwards til you see fluid movement in the clutch reservoir?

since honda used a tiny ass tank, it will be hard to tell.

same thing if you open the bleeder slightly, you can get rid of a tiny pocket of air that can build up. push piston/rod in slowly while a friend tightens the bleeder.


If you are using stock clutch hardlines and softlines, make sure they are not clogged up with junk.

a reasonable priced part to remove the possibility is to grab a braided cable that goes directly from master to slave.
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Old 03-02-2018, 08:01 AM   #9 (permalink)
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