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Old 11-13-2017, 06:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default PGMFI Wiring / Code 9 (D16a1)

I probably posted about this a couple years ago or something but life has thoroughly derailed me from working on my teg until recently.

Still battling with my code 9, though I'm fairly certain I have it narrowed down to a wiring issue. Though resistance, continuity, and ground all check out, there are notable breaks in the shielding (right before it enters the connector on the sensor side where there is clearly exposed wire (since electrical taped to protect the sensor/ECU, at least), and possibly elsewhere. I'd just like to run a new pair of wires from the ECU to sensor, bypassing the 30 year old harnesses for now.

How picky is everything about the wiring, exactly? It's just a signal wire afaik--would simple copper shielded wire worked? Is something specific needed? Any particular gauge?

Also if you're reading this and happen to know, I have some other questions relating to the code 9 as well, just to make sure all of my bases are covered by this. With this being a 30 year old car information is getting harder to find and more and more conflicted.

Which of these things could cause a Code 9?

Wiring (obviously)
CYP sensor (obviously--both I have test good, with the current one on there being a new replacement just in case)
ECU (likewise have tried 2, both tested good, and the first one was working fine in previous motor. Both PG7)
Compression? (Some of the lines aren't in the best shape ever, but last time it was compression tested it was fine)
Ignition timing? (Would make sense, though I would think that would throw codes for one of the distributor sensors as well/instead?)
Mechanical timing? (Seeing as the sensor sits on the end of the exhaust cam it'd make sense it'd throw a code if it's not seeing #1 cylinder when it 'expects' to)
The distributor? (Don't know why it would throw a code for an external sensor but not for one of the distributor sensors)
Some random thing?

Thanks in electronic advance!

Here's the most obvious break in the insulation (since taped):

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Old 11-13-2017, 09:31 AM   #2 (permalink)
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18 gauge speaker wire works, how I wired up VTEC on my EG DX. Make sure to get something decent that will handle car chemicals. I used the cheap gray Monster Cable stuff, but it was leftover from my Car Audio days.

CYP wires backwards?
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Old 11-13-2017, 10:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I used shielded microphone cable, going on like 3 years now

Last edited by theotherchris; 11-13-2017 at 05:50 PM.
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Old 11-13-2017, 01:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by transzex View Post
18 gauge speaker wire works, how I wired up VTEC on my EG DX. Make sure to get something decent that will handle car chemicals. I used the cheap gray Monster Cable stuff, but it was leftover from my Car Audio days.

CYP wires backwards?
Don't think so, unless they got reversed on the factory connectors somehow. Well, they'll be in the right spot when the wire gets redone. Good to hear 18 gauge speaker wire will work, I already have some.

Hopefully this does it. Just in case, checking mechanical timing again...
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Old 11-15-2017, 08:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Well I'll be damned, it looks like sometime in the fixes for all of this it did indeed jump a tooth and the mechanical timing is out. Well, knowing is most of the battle.
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