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Old 04-19-2017, 12:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Downpipe fabrication

So I had a shitty tubular manifold and naturally it cracked. I swapped to a cast manifold and now my 3" downpipe doesn't clear. It's super tight, I've done a ton of searches, emailed go-auto, and got my welder guy to come look at it. I'm looking for suggestions. I'd prefer to keep the 3" and turbo routing if possible.
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Old 04-19-2017, 01:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I went the same route as you did.. But I went 2.5 until it was past the oil pan, then went to 3" all the way back.


Sometimes you just gotta do what you can. The 2.5" wont hold you back either.



Fi you have a welder, do pie cuts and make that sht look badass.
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Old 04-20-2017, 04:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Esotericimage View Post
I went the same route as you did.. But I went 2.5 until it was past the oil pan, then went to 3" all the way back.


Sometimes you just gotta do what you can. The 2.5" wont hold you back either.



Fi you have a welder, do pie cuts and make that sht look badass.
I think the best option would be to just save and get the c ram from go-auto. I would pie cut but my welding is crap lol.
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Old 04-20-2017, 05:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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It sounds ghetto but in the meantime can you clock your Rad. A bit towards the passenger side firewall, like kinda cockeye if you catch my drift. I mean I know it's ghetto but you'll be able to drive your car without any immediate fab until you save for the new manifold.

Edit: I see a cable to hydro conversion which tells me you have some sort of ED/EF shell, that being said you can totally do it, zip ties my friend, it's what I did with the half size rad. In my Rex after the b swap lol
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Old 04-22-2017, 05:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Flip your turbo around 180 degrees!!! Compressor facing radiator.
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Old 04-22-2017, 05:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Examples:
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