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Old 05-11-2008, 03:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Turbo guys, what do you tq your arp headstuds at

i believe i first torqued mine to 60ft/lbs, drove it then torqued them to 70 ft/lbs.

ive seen some setups with them torqued at 90 ft/lbs

what do you guys have them at?
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Old 05-11-2008, 03:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i went to 65 with moly lube... tq spec is on the box and is different between moly and oil.



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Old 05-11-2008, 03:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I went to 70ftlbs pushing 35psi.

I continue to retorque the nuts until none of them move. It may take as many as 4 times after about 10 heat cycles.

That's drive the car 10 times let it cool over night after each drive, then retorque the head.
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Old 05-11-2008, 03:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The torque specs for ARP studs are designed so that the stress in the stud is 75% of its yield strength. Assuming a linear relationship with the torque spec being 60 lb-ft, the studs will deform plastically at 80 lb-ft.
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Old 05-11-2008, 03:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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mine took twice... but i am not pushing 35* either lol.



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Old 05-11-2008, 03:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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70 ft lbs here as well.
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Old 05-11-2008, 03:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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awesome thanks guys
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Old 05-11-2008, 05:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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70 ft lbs here as well.
i did 71 lol...just because chris (xenocron) had just done his to 70

On a side note, ive never re-torqued mine (its a bit of a pain on a dohc) and have had no problems so far.
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Old 05-11-2008, 06:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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I have 1/2" studs and I torq them to 100ft/lb
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Old 05-11-2008, 07:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I have mine torqued to 65. Once i drive it a bit i'm gonna retourqe um to 70.
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:17 AM   #11 (permalink)
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70 here as well.
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:38 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ddd4114 View Post
The torque specs for ARP studs are designed so that the stress in the stud is 75% of its yield strength. Assuming a linear relationship with the torque spec being 60 lb-ft, the studs will deform plastically at 80 lb-ft.
For those who haven't taken a materials course, a stud that has been plastically deformed may as well be a paperweight.

If used, it will eventually break the same way a paper clip breaks if you bend it back and forth over and over...

Or at least you won't get the clamping force you'd expect.
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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maybe you guys should list what lube you used for the tq down. just to make sure no one does it wrong for their application.



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Old 05-12-2008, 07:40 AM   #14 (permalink)
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arp moly lube that is included with them.
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:49 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Yea the ARP lub. Make sure you get all the air out of the threads.

I run the stud in until it stops, wait a few and run it in some more, wait a few, repeat until there bottomed. Then back them out 1/2 a turn.

For some reason B series don't need to be re torqued. A lot of with single cams have learned the hard way.
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:57 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Levi View Post
arp moly lube that is included with them.
thats what arp reccomends, so thats what i use.

i torqued mine to 65 ft lbs and never re-torqued...and never had an issue.
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Old 05-12-2008, 09:07 AM   #17 (permalink)
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thats what arp reccomends, so thats what i use.

i torqued mine to 65 ft lbs and never re-torqued...and never had an issue.
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Old 05-12-2008, 01:12 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Levi View Post
arp moly lube that is included with them.
same here, also i remember letting the air escape. havent had any hg issues just curious because sometime in the next few months id like to build another z6 head, mill it a bunch to get my vitara motor into the ~8.0:1-8.2:1 area instead of this 7.5:1 i have going on here.

also accompinied with a port job, springs, retainers, 59300 cam, and a port match IM and new tb should make for a nice power gain.

oops back on topic...
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Old 05-12-2008, 03:31 PM   #19 (permalink)
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so when it tells you to only screw the studs in by hand... you just put them in until you cant turn them no more? im in the process of doing this... ive never used ARP's before so its new to me
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Old 05-12-2008, 03:43 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Yes by hand. if you use a allen wrench to help turn them, be careful not to go to tight. Like I said above I' have been told to back them up about 1/2 turn. That came from one of the experts from a few years back. I continue to do that with engines I put together.
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