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Old 04-06-2008, 08:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default biuld for 250-300whp?

well ive been reading and reading till my freakin eyes hurt, i figured this would be more helpful, im fixing to order a stock d16a6 (the zc version if theres any difference) and i want to biuld it for boost, but i dont want to make anymore than 300whp i would actually be happy with around 250 or so, but what would be the perfect internal biuld on a decently fresh zc engine? (they state 25-35k miles)

If you have any opinions on turbo's to use that would be awesome too just not to sure what to go with, this is my first honda biuld, the only turbo car ive ever biuld was my 92 gsx and im seeing that these sohc honda engines are quite different compared to that, thanks in advance guys.
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Old 04-06-2008, 09:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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vitaras tt ros , plane n simple about 400 bucks total
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Old 04-06-2008, 09:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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tt rods? is that tuner toys? still learning most of those initials lol, no need for sleeving? my biggest thing of all is reliability, and i know the most part of that comes down to engine being biult right and tuned properly. Also whats the best main and rod bearings to use, i figured a cometic standared thickness head gasket would be perfect?
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Old 04-06-2008, 11:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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ARPs, injectors, fuel pump, and a good tuning program/tuner. you dont need much for under 300whp.
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Old 04-06-2008, 11:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 88RexSi View Post
tt rods? is that tuner toys? still learning most of those initials lol, no need for sleeving? my biggest thing of all is reliability, and i know the most part of that comes down to engine being biult right and tuned properly. Also whats the best main and rod bearings to use, i figured a cometic standared thickness head gasket would be perfect?
stock sleeves should be fine, many out there running 400whp or more on stock sleeves, but you could always be the oddball exception as with all engine stuff. honda bearings or lots of people choose acl. if it was me id also go with oem head gasket, but thats my opinion. fjt also carries some nice rods if you cant get the tuner toys... or then for some more money theres eagles. do a search on vitara pistons and you will get pages of info. they are very affordable and proven to support plenty more than what you are shooting for.
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Old 04-07-2008, 06:10 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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awesome, i new the vitaras would come up in this as ive heard pretty much nothing but good about them, would the eagles be a better choice? the thing is i dont mind spending the extra money as long as its worth it you know what i mean, injectors i was thinking some 550's and a 255 walbro pump, that should be plenty of fuel to support everything, and since you say the oem head gasket i will go with that i wasnt sure if there was one stronger out there. The ARP's are a must for any biuld thats for sure. so heres what we got so far:

vitaras
tt rods (or eagle)
oem rod and main bearings
oem head gasket
stock sleeves (since they support 400hp safley from what ive been reading, when tuned properly of course)
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Old 04-07-2008, 09:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Use a Honda H gasket instead of the Cometic.
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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definitely skip the cometic my buddy put one in his d16a1 and it blew when we first started it up! coolant was pressuring up and we took the head off and it was blown around 3 of the cylinders...head was just resurfaced and the block was flat when we checked it with a straight edge and it was torqued in the correct patter with arp's! not sure what happened...
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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had 2 stock head gaskets blow under boost, Installed a cometic and havent had a problem since
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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why not just get the custom rods that fjt is offering
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Old 04-08-2008, 04:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88RexSi View Post
awesome, i new the vitaras would come up in this as ive heard pretty much nothing but good about them, would the eagles be a better choice? the thing is i dont mind spending the extra money as long as its worth it you know what i mean, injectors i was thinking some 550's and a 255 walbro pump, that should be plenty of fuel to support everything, and since you say the oem head gasket i will go with that i wasnt sure if there was one stronger out there. The ARP's are a must for any biuld thats for sure. so heres what we got so far:

vitaras
tt rods (or eagle)
oem rod and main bearings
oem head gasket
stock sleeves (since they support 400hp safley from what ive been reading, when tuned properly of course)
fjt rods are good too and hes got them rated at 600+ hp
he is in the affiliates section and also has his website: http://fjdistributors.com/product_in...roducts_id=269
what kind of engine management are you looking at?
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Old 04-08-2008, 05:20 AM   #12 (permalink)
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i have an oem y8 hg on my setup and its never blown with over 25psi thrown at it.
Jeff Evans claims that the d-series sleeves are good for 500 hp.
pinks car ran without sleeves. and i dont run sleeved.
300 max i think sleeving is unnecessary.
the tt-rods, and eagle rods are pretty much comparable in quality with the same arp bolts.
id check with fjt, he has a very good reputation and ill vouch for him being a former customer.
for the turbo in that power range, id recommend a t3 .48/.60 or .63/.60 from either the turbo thunderbirds or svo mustangs. either turbo will probably max out around 270ish and spool very nice.
what else did i forget?????
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Old 04-08-2008, 06:12 AM   #13 (permalink)
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not sure what ya meant, but are you saying you are ordering a d16a6 swap, as in the whole engine and shit JDM online...if so why ya gonna buy a low milage engine to pull all the internals out?? the blocks dont make a diff if it has 900090000000 miles or 2. if you puling the internals out doesnt make a difference. find a used d16 block, they are $25-50
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Old 04-08-2008, 06:39 AM   #14 (permalink)
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not sure what ya meant, but are you saying you are ordering a d16a6 swap, as in the whole engine and shit JDM online...if so why ya gonna buy a low milage engine to pull all the internals out?? the blocks dont make a diff if it has 900090000000 miles or 2. if you puling the internals out doesnt make a difference. find a used d16 block, they are $25-50
actually mileage can make a difference... cylinders can go egg shaped, bearing wear possibly damaging the crank etc etc
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Old 04-08-2008, 07:02 AM   #15 (permalink)
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The only thing I didn't see is some ARP head studs. You can use DSM 450 injectors and be fine. They are cheap and available. I know KGP (in the D-series.org Affiliates section). has rebuilt ones for a decent price:

https://www.d-series.org/forums/showt...light=resistor

The nice thing about the fjt rods is they raise the compression ratio when you run the Vitaras. I think they are competitively priced too.

drunkinmaster1's turbo suggestion is a good one.
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Old 04-08-2008, 07:05 AM   #16 (permalink)
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actually mileage can make a difference... cylinders can go egg shaped, bearing wear possibly damaging the crank etc etc
that can happen after 10k miles, not really the point sick1cam was trying to make. he is simply saying it will not really matter since the block is being torn down and the price for the higher milage engine might help to offset the build price to a lower number.



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Old 04-08-2008, 08:28 AM   #17 (permalink)
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^ exactly
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Old 04-08-2008, 08:33 AM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Tunning im not 100&#37; on yet, i see alot of guys running different stuff but i was thinking about crome, i actually was looking at the fjt rods i have there site in my favorites, i guess i was only getting a low milage motor cuz there cheap and i know everythings in good shape, but who knows i may find a super killa deal and go with it, you said the fjt rods raised the compression ratio, how much does it up it?

Then the other thing is i have to find a repitable machine shop to send everything to to make sure its all perfect, hot tank and clean the block and check all the measurements, than i want to have all the rotating parts balanced. Any shop ideas cuz theres not the first one around my area, i wouldnt trust these people to put air in my tires. again guys thanks for all your help this is going to be a badass setup.
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:50 AM   #19 (permalink)
 
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Don't forget about the tranny (LSD/Clutch). Also Timing belt stuff.
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Old 04-08-2008, 02:28 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Don't forget about the tranny (LSD/Clutch). Also Timing belt stuff.
This is a really good point. You are going to be making enough power to need these too.

Vitaras on stock length rods are about 7.5:1 compression ratio. With fjt's custom length I -beams it's more like 8.5:1.
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