I just finished reading the 400+ hp vitaras thread and I like this idea alot. I plan on getting vitaras, TT rodds, and APR headstuds. I remember seeing a guide on installing pistons without removieing the engine and I also saw a guide on how to notch the block for aftermarket rods ( do TT rods need notching?). Can somebody link me to these DIYs I can't seem to find it anyware.
Also is ftj still selling vitaras or is he still having shipping issues and not recieving any ( I read a thread on turbod16 a lil bit back).
rods/pistons are a lot easier to install with the motor out. but if you are running h-beams, they will require notching, and then the block will have to be thoroughly cleaned to remove all debris.
you are going to have to pull the motor and completely disassemble to do this setup
i haven't seen a how-to on the pistons swap, you should definatly get a Haynes manual tho... Some people say that their blocks don't need to be notched, but you should plan on doing it ( www.theoldone.com has a block notching how-to). fjt doesn't have any standard bore vitaras in stock right now, but you should PM him to let him know you want to buy some.
I have a chance to buy a short d16z6 block for $100, if I did that and istalled everything would it be as simple as swaping over the head from my currnet engine (d16z6) and drop it in?
I also have the option to buy the whole engine (minus transmission, P/S, A/C) for $250 is that good? should I do that?
Id say get the z6 block and build it, then when your ready swap everything over, this will save you down time. but it also depends on what condition the short block is in.
how do I tell the condition of the block, the speedo is missing from the car so I can't tell the Kilometers but it is a 92 hatchback si that got hit quite hard in the drivers door
well, seeing as your rebuilding the motor, it doens't matter (than much) what the mileage was... As long as the cylinder walls appear to be in good condition, you're good to go.
any pictures of scratches that would be to deep becasue I ahve to remove the head before taking the block so I will get a look at the walls before I have to buy it.
i don't know if a picture is going to be able to describe this one... just use instinct... if the normal scoring of the cylinder is consistent, you are probably ok... if there is one, or a few that stand out, then thats sketchy... also, if the block still has the head on it, you could do a compression check... if all of the cylinders turn out to be ok, then you should be good to go...
i feel kinda bad giving this kinda advice, because i'm probably making you paranoid... if it ran well before the crash, then i would think it would be ok... plus, its not like the pistons aren't going to be replaced anyway...
i'm just trying to say that the only thing you would really need to worry about as far as a block goes is the obvious visible damage, and the cylinder walls... use instinct!
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