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Old 07-27-2019, 08:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default D16z6/y7 mini me turbo build help!!

I’m planning on building a 500+ HP D16 and I put together a parts list. Can anybody let me know if I am missing anything on the list. Thanks for the help in advance. I know not everything is a necessity but I there are a few bells and whistles I want to add myself.


D16z6 head - 150.00
9 z6 head studs and 1 y8 head stud - 50.00
Y8 timing belt - 15.00
Coil on plug conversion kit- 300.00
Ebay Turbo T/3 T/4 - 135.00
Manifold - 60.00
Downpipe - 80.00
Dumptube - 70.00
Headwork / Valvetrain - 250.00
Slim fan/radiator - 150.00
Catch Can - 60.00
BOV - 40.00
Wastegate - 50.00
Oil Lines - 30.00
Oil Restrictor - 20.00
Intercooler Kit - 180.00
P28 ECU - 250.00
AEM Wideband - 130.00
Turbo Timer - 20.00
Boost*Controller - 50.00
Skunk2 intake Manifold - 200.00
Bisimoto Stage 3 Cam - 400.00
Stage 2 Clutch - 150.00
Hbeam Rods - 100.0
YCP Vitara Pistons - 100.00
Fuel Pump - 100.00
Fuel Rail - 120.00
Fuel Injectors - 200.00
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Old 07-27-2019, 08:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default D16z6/y7 Mini Me Turbo Build

Hey everyone! Im brand new to the forum and this is my first turbo bud. I’m planning on building a 500+ HP D16 and I put together a parts list. Can anybody let me know if I am missing anything on the list. Thanks for the help in advance. I know not everything is a necessity but there are a few bells and whistles I want to add myself.

D16z6 head - 150.00
9 z6 heads 1 y8 head stud - 50.00
Y8 timing belt - 15.00
Coil on plug conversion kit- 300.00 Ebay Turbo T/3 T/4 - 135.00 Manifold - 60.00
Downpipe - 80.00
Dumptube - 70.00
Headwork / Valvetrain - 250.00
Slim fan/radiator - 150.00
Catch Can - 60.00
BOV - 40.00
Wastegate - 50.00
Oil Lines - 30.00
Oil Restrictor - 20.00
Intercooler Kit - 180.00
P28 ECU - 250.00
AEM Wideband - 130.00
Turbo Timer - 20.00 Boost*Controller - 50.00
Skunk2 intake Manifold - 200.00 Bisimoto Stage 3 Cam - 400.00 Stage 2 Clutch - 150.00
Hbeam Rods - 100.0
YCP Vitara Pistons - 100.00
Fuel Pump - 100.00
Fuel Rail - 120.00
Fuel Injectors - 200.00
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Old 07-27-2019, 10:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I see many "cheap" parts that must be quality to achieving your power level. I don't think 500WHP is realistic, maybe 3-350WHP.

Who is going to do the machine work to make the rotating assembly reliable at 500WHP? There is so much to consider to reach this goal.

Biggest shortfalls I can see that need looking at are
-fuel system (pump, injectors, regulator, rail, etc. $200 injectors worry me, as you will most likely need to run E85 or race gas to reach your target power level)
-transmission/drivetrain (clutch, drive shafts, transmission internals. Your stage 2 clutch will eat its own face off then shit it back out at 500whp)
-engine management (P28 needs to be modified, and a tuning solution implemented)
-intercooler (a $180 intercooler kit probably won't flow what you need)
-exhaust manifold (what kind exactly? log/cast, or tubular equal length? Air flow both inlet and exhaust is critical to get to your power level, and to taking advantage of your proposed camshaft)
-cheap boost control devices (a $50 wastegate is asking for problems, don't go cheap on these things as it is the one thing keeping your turbo in check under boost)
-don't see oil cooler (your engine will get HOT at this power level, need to help it out as much as possible)
-don't see main/rod bearings
-new oil pump with port work? (help your bearings get oil as much as possible. Look through the forum, many topics on this issue)

I think you need to do a lot of reading up on these above points. The answers to them will reveal themselves as you search this forum.

Good luck!
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Last edited by drtalon123; 07-27-2019 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 07-28-2019, 07:35 AM   #4 (permalink)
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So just be cautious when buying parts for the build and make sure I’m getting quality stuff to handle the HP. I’ve already got the head machined. And ported pump. But that’s literally it.
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Old 07-28-2019, 08:23 AM   #5 (permalink)
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what the dr said.
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Alright, so here is a revised list of parts after doing a little more research. Let me know if i am on the right track with this list here.

D16z6 Head (Already ported and polished)
9 z6 head studs 1 y8 head stud
Y8 timing belt
Coil on plug conversion kit
Garrett Ball Bearing Turbo T3/T4
Cast Log Manifold
Downpipe
Dumptube
Skunk2 Springs and Retainers
Supertech Valves
Slim fan/radiator
Custom Catch Can
HKS BOV
HKS Wastegate
Braided Oil Lines
Oil Restrictor
Custom Intercooler and piping
P28 ECU (Already Chipped)
AEM Wideband
Turbo Timer
Boost Controller
Skunk2 intake Manifold
Bisimoto Stage 3.6 Cam
Stage 3 Comp Clutch
H-beam Rods
Main Rod Bearings
OEM Ported Oil Pump
Oil Cooler
YCP Vitara Pistons
Factory Crank (Machined)
Walboro Fuel Pump
AEM Fuel Rail
1000cc Fuel Injectors
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I just don't see 500 with a log manifold and 1000cc injectors. You will most definitely need either race gas or E85, which means you will need 1200-1500cc, plus a fuel pump that can do at least 450lph, as well as a proper flowing header. The log will end up being a restriction at the power level you seek.
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:35 AM   #8 (permalink)
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And the clutch will need to be stage 4 or higher
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Old 07-28-2019, 11:03 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Also, what is the reason for wanting 500+HP? Anything in particular in mind? Any specific goals? If it's just to have a fun street car, these engines in light cars such as ours tuned between 300-400 will give most cars on the street a serious run for their money in terms of power to weight.

500WHP is a tough cookie to crack on our engines and be reliable in the end, as 500WHP on the dyno is roughly 620 crankshaft HP. The B series is much more reliable at that power level than our D's.

The easiest way to make 500WHP in a D happen from an engine standpoint is to have the block sleeved. After that, coupled with all the mods you list, crank up the boost and fuel. Beyond this, the transmission becomes a weakness. The B Series transmissions are better suited for this power level, even though the factory never intended this.

In comparison, the reason B series engines make so much more power so easily on roughly the same styles of builds as our D series do, is due to mechanical differences. They have a wider piston bore diameter, meaning there is more force per square inch acting on the piston face pushing down on the rod. The rod/stroke ratio is also much more desirable for maintaining power throughout the rev range, and the heads simply flow so much better than our D's. The stock pistons and rods are designed to take serious abuse, and the block comes factory with piston cooling jets.

My D right now had to have a lot of the same mods as you are listing done to it to get close to 350WHP, whereas I could have literally slapped a turbo and log manifold to my B16 with larger injectors on the stock engine and made almost the same power on a 5-7PSI wastegate spring. If you modded a B series in the same way you are attempting to modify the D, you will be making closer to 700HP.

Just food for thought! I'm not saying it can't be done, because it definitely has, but it is a challenge. Either way you go, just make sure you have fun doing it! I don't mean to discourage you I promise, everything I've learned in life has been the hard way because I just don't learn until I get hurt or I break something fucking expensive so I'm no one to talk haha.

The one thing I have learned though is the importance of setting an end goal when it comes to modifying cars.
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Old 07-28-2019, 11:50 AM   #10 (permalink)
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no need to make 2 of the same threads


need to do less typing and more reading. theres a few builds here that have 400+hp, and you can spend your time reading those to see what works and what doesn't


also


CHEAP


FAST


RELIABLE






PICK 2







https://www.d-series.org/forums/show...-ek-build.html


https://www.d-series.org/forums/show...d16-build.html


https://www.d-series.org/forums/show...quest-10s.html


https://www.d-series.org/forums/show...0-5-index.html
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Last edited by slo_eg8; 07-28-2019 at 11:59 AM. Reason: heres your spoon
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Old 07-30-2019, 08:08 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info guys. More research I’ve done I’ve come to the conclusion that if I want reliable 500hp then I need to B swap but 300-400 is gonna perfectly fine in my little hatch. I’m starting the first phase tomorrow. Swapping the z6 head onto the y7 block, wish me luck!
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Old 07-30-2019, 02:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I thought the pistons and rods went in before the head went on..?

Last edited by robgoof; 07-30-2019 at 02:14 PM. Reason: redot
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Old 07-30-2019, 03:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robgoof View Post
I thought the pistons and rods went in before the head went on..?
nah dude, they go in from the bottom. drop the oil pan and it all comes out in 1 shot






as for the y7/z6, Im sure its hit and miss about the bearing failures on the y series engines, but I had a stock n/a y7/z6 in my car, and it eventually spun a bearing. that's with regular oil changes, not beating on it too much, and usually 3k rpm gear changes....so take it with a grain of salt.
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Old 07-30-2019, 07:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slo_eg8 View Post
nah dude, they go in from the bottom. drop the oil pan and it all comes out in 1 shot
I am not very good at detecting sarcasm. If you are serious, I am confused.
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Old 07-30-2019, 08:04 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry44 View Post
I am not very good at detecting sarcasm. If you are serious, I am confused.


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