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Old 01-17-2019, 05:28 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Oil and Water Lines

Hello,

I am curious as to where I can tap into on a D16Y1 engine to supply a turbo with both oil and water. I will be taking the engine out of the car in order to rebuild it, so if there is any drilling of the block/sump, I can do that whilst I have it out.

Thanks
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Old 01-17-2019, 05:58 AM   #2 (permalink)
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i use a sandwich plate for my oil feed to my turbo.

you could also remove your idiot light sensor and use that spot as your oil feed.

as for water im not sure as ive never used a water cooled turbo. though if i was doing it i would probably tap off of one of the lines that runs to the throttle body and just ad the turbo into that loop but again ive never done it before so im uncertain.
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Old 01-17-2019, 06:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
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That's great, thanks for the info.

What sort of boost can you run through a non water cooled turbo? I'm still researching these sort of things and I thought all turbos were water cooled
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Old 01-17-2019, 07:04 AM   #4 (permalink)
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im running 15psi through mine right now.

i wouldnt be scared to run 30 through it. ive never heard that you could run more boost through water cooled turbos.

non water cooled turbos are cooled by the oil that runs through them.

to my knowledge its just a preference thing.
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Old 01-17-2019, 07:25 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I see. This is really helpful, thanks.

Most articles I have read mention water cooling, but it helps to hear you don't necessarily need to use it
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Old 01-17-2019, 03:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'll be running a sammich plate for an oil cooler and doing the idiot light bit to source for the turbo, with a few 50 cent bits added to have a port for oil pressure gauge and for the idiot light. If you do that remember ppl have posted horror stories about just teeing off the sensor port. Moving it to the firewall (very well documented) is quick and easy.

Plus for 2 bucks of bits and fittings you can add ports like I did.
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Old 01-17-2019, 06:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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For my turbo I ran water lines from the IACV
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Old 01-17-2019, 07:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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For oil, as civicdxude said either a sandwich plate or removing the instrument cluster oil light sending unit entirely and tapping in there.


Water is a different story.


I was trying to find you a white paper PDF that Garrett released about this very subject.

It was a great engineering paper, but Garrett stupified their website recently, made it way too sales oriented and harder to find the good research papers. All of the old links redirect to this stupid sales monstrosity.

I found the document they replaced the original with, they cut out all of the good important stuff and summed it up with a sales pitch. It seems like they are going that with all their documents now.

You need to make sure one line has a source to "cold" and the other has a source to "hot" water. For my Y8, "hot" side I used a nipple off the intake that tee'd into the passage that lead to the heater core, and the "cold" is the nipple that's on the water pipe between the thermostat housing and back of the water pump.

There is a really good reason for the need for temperature differential, as well as making sure there is forced circulation in one direction through the circuit. Also making sure the CHRA is angled so that the "hot" water outlet is higher than the "cold" water inlet. This allows for temperature differential coolant circulation that still occurs naturally even when the engine is off.

Anyways, if you have a water cooled CHRA then you must run water through it. If you don't it will cause hot zone issues, as the metal they remove from the CHRA to allow for a water jacket around the rotating assembly has to be filled with something that allows for heat transfer.

Otherwise, it's just a pocket of air and the bearing/journal nearest the turbine housing will feel the wrath of excessive heat build up first. You're just asking for problems not running water to it.
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Old 01-18-2019, 02:25 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Incredible info. Many thanks.

When you talk about a sandwich plate, I have googled what they look like but I'm just curious as to where to run it from or where to tap into.

I do want this to last, so I will take your info on the water supply and run with it, drtalon123.

Thanks again everyone. It's pretty obvious that this is the first time I have attempted a project at this scale, so any and all information is welcome.
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Old 01-18-2019, 04:50 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer75 View Post
When you talk about a sandwich plate, I have googled what they look like but I'm just curious as to where to run it from or where to tap into.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GLOWSHIFT-H...:rk:1:razz:f:0

Head to that link. The sandwich plate goes between the block and the oil filter, and has threaded ports in the aluminum for access to clean side engine oil pressure.

Run your turbo oil pressure line from one of these ports. It also supplies you with additional ports for other accessories like an oil pressure gauge/sending unit, etc.
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Old 01-18-2019, 09:09 AM   #11 (permalink)
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A quick search. https://www.d-series.org/forums/forc...ant-lines.html
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Old 01-19-2019, 11:00 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Then oil from the turbo is returned to the oil sump via a bung. Correct?
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Old 01-19-2019, 03:00 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer75 View Post
Then oil from the turbo is returned to the oil sump via a bung. Correct?
Yes
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