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Old 01-16-2019, 09:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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So I purchased a 1998 ek (ek6) hatch a few weeks ago and have been trying to decide my plans for the car. I have a hp goal of 180-200 since i want a fun*daily, and the top priority is reliability, but the d16y7 currently in it has 322000kms on it. Since I am currently in college, funds are low and from what I read, a turbo d-series is the best bang for buck in my case (even though I am an N/A boi at heart).

*Now I'm trying to decide if I should rebuild the current engine and piece together a turbo kit (not ebay), or try to find another d16 to just replace it with and turbo that one. With all the research I've done, I've come to the conclusion that an internally stock engine from the factory will always be more reliable than one that's been cracked open and messed around with. But on the other hand d series engines didn't come stock with a turbo so...

Since these d16's are so old, most are at least*200000kms. Would I have more reliability turboing*a stock semi-high mileage one, or partially rebuilding my current one and turbocharging that? (I consider myself somewhat mechanically knowledgable, I swapped a b18a1 into my ef without too much hassle but have never done internal work)
Thanks!!
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Old 01-16-2019, 11:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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pay a shop to build one for you.
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Old 01-16-2019, 11:30 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I think you should try a y8 head swap first then see if you can handle the turbo or anything else after. If you can't manage to get the head swap done without issue it should go without saying you can't handle a turbo. The best thing otherwise would be finding a y8 transmission and swapping that in. And at 126k miles its barely broken in, most civics around here have 325k km and more. One of my own is 3000km away from 400k km, 247k mi.
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Old 01-16-2019, 03:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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/\/\/\ What Chrisfrom1986 said all the way.

What is your budget like? Since you said "college" and "funds are low" the first thing you should ask yourself is "Do I depend on this car heavily day to day?" If not, then more power to you, go wild! Spend every last penny on it!

But, if you NEED your car to get from A to B, start smaller. For someone who has never been inside an engine before, a head swap is a great place to start learning.

There is lots of experience you can gain by just doing a head swap.

But further elaborating on what Chris said, there are many things that can go wrong with something as "simple" as a head swap, and if you can't learn from and sort through those issues then adding a turbo will make life much more painful.

Doing a proper job installing a turbocharger on an engine that was never designed to support a turbo, there are so many more moving parts to consider. Not just physical moving parts, but electronic as well. There are so many things to consider, prep, watch, fabricate, keep an eye on, etc. related to doing a proper turbo installation, and trying to take shortcuts because "funds are low" will eventually make you wish you just stayed stock haha.

A proper "not ebay" turbo setup is expensive, and if you are seriously looking at proper name brand components for the WHOLE setup, you might as well start looking at buying a car that has a turbo from the factory, and keep the change.

Some days I seriously wish I would have just bought an M3 with the amount of money and time I've spent.... lol but I like to craft things and learn the hard way.....
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Old 01-16-2019, 03:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Oh, I should have also added that if your goal is 180-200HP, just B16/B18 DOHC VTEC swap it from some kind of Type R engine/trans import and be done with it lol. You'll be at your goal, you car will be stupid fun AND you'll have factory reliability for about the cost of "cheaply" boosting the D.

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Old 01-17-2019, 11:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drtalon123 View Post
Oh, I should have also added that if your goal is 180-200HP, just B16/B18 DOHC VTEC swap it from some kind of Type R engine/trans import and be done with it lol. You'll be at your goal, you car will be stupid fun AND you'll have factory reliability for about the cost of "cheaply" boosting the D.
I have looked into this as it was my original plan, but prices for shipping a b16/b18 that came stock with vtec to Canada are $4000+. I was hoping a boosted d16 would only run me ~1500$ but its looking like I was pretty far off based on everyones replies. If this is just a daily driver, is it even worth going K? I doubt I will ever take it to the track, I just want a little extra oomph but a gsr might be all I need.
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Old 01-24-2019, 08:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FourthGen View Post
I have looked into this as it was my original plan, but prices for shipping a b16/b18 that came stock with vtec to Canada are $4000+. I was hoping a boosted d16 would only run me ~1500$ but its looking like I was pretty far off based on everyones replies. If this is just a daily driver, is it even worth going K? I doubt I will ever take it to the track, I just want a little extra oomph but a gsr might be all I need.
Your average non-Type R K series drivetrain will be a bit cheaper up front in comparison to a complete JDM B series swap, but the hardware required to perform the swap (mounts, mods to wiring harnesses, shifter hardware, etc.) will quickly equal or overtake a complete B16 or B18 swap.

Man you're right, I haven't looked at JDM parts supplier websites lately until this post. The price for a B18C complete swap ranges from $4500-$4800!!! I swear 2-3 years ago this swap was $3200-$3500. If you were planning on staying NA and you had the capability to perform your own fabrication, the allure of a $1500 complete JDM H22 or F20B Prelude/Accord drivetrain is hard to resist when the prices are that dramatically different!

You could freshen up an F20B with new internals and throw it in a civic and be content in NA form for quite a while and keep a chunk of change (again, only if fab skills/equipment/time are available). I was planning on doing this with a buddy, swapping in an F20B to his 1990 Prelude to get rid of the B21A1 under that hood. F20B is basically an H22 head/block, destroked with different pistons/rods/bore size but with STEEL (non-FRM) liners. The F20B is a great compromise between the high cost of the B's while getting rid of some of the biggest turn offs of the H series engines.

For best plug and play and for the price you seem to want, a complete GSR swap would probably fit your budget and overall power requirements really well.
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Old 01-26-2019, 01:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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i have a different approach

it seems that your not familier with cars dont get me wrong i mean anyone who cannot over hull a 4 cylinder d16 is not , i been in your shoes long time ago,
well youtube and the internet these days makes everything seems easier than what it is.

keep in mind a modified car require down time /

swaps require more down time

long time ago i bought a lancer or as they call it mirage .

i was in collage with no lots of experience and lack of funds
i bought and evo5 swap and paid i guy to swap it so its lhd evo5

long story short it was fun car but even though its a straight swap i mean everything fits as original under the hood ,no brainier BUT rear diff and the drive shaft was a night mare i wont get on details but swaps are not for DD specially if you dont know much
and i define a DD as a car which you can just turn on any time and drive any amount of miles or kilos without worrying

start by some maintenance with that mileage am sure it require some work
electrical problems are common , rusty exhaust,etc etc
know your car well ,get your self a service manual .

get anther d16 open it do the work yourself in your free time or pay someone and later drop it in with a manual transmission

a well build d16 with a turbo is much better solution

and welcome to civic addiction

proud owner of 3 civic hatchback ,,,, yep i got anther one
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