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Old 11-17-2018, 08:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cool tips for stable daily driven boost build

Hello, I'm fairly new to these forums and boost in general but I want to boost my daily driven 97 civic. My goal is at least 150 whp, ideal would be 200. if it can be done without needing forged pistons and all that. It has a d16y7 engine and an aftermarket cai. ANY tips would help!
- I'm buying a rebuilt d16y8 head & arp headstuds
- what size injectors would I need? 440cc?
- which turbo kit would be best? a t28 or t3/t4?
- would I need to chip the ecu?
I know I would have to get it tuned, but for now those are my main questions
any feedback is greatly appreciated. thanks!
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Old 11-17-2018, 08:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I feel I should add my budget is about 2.5k, I know it's kind of low but that's what I have to work with. If anyone can link me to any recommended turbo kits to reach 200whp that would be amazing.
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Old 11-17-2018, 09:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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read the stickies dammit.
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Old 11-18-2018, 01:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Your goal of 150whp is very realistic, and easy.

Read the stickies like advised by slo

Read user builds on here to get an idea of what parts they used and more importnantly, WHY they used certain parts.

You really should have a wealth of knowledge prior to doing a turbo project, as iut prevents things from taking forever.


150whp is possible on stock engines with good tuning.

Good fuel inejctors, a solid performing fuel pump, and a good tuning solution are the keys to the engine surviving.


You should FIRST make sure the car is prepared. Verify timing, verify ALL sensors are operating properly and communicating with the ecu properly, verify there are no leaks, no poor compression, verify all fluids are in ""healthy"" condition....

Suspension is REQUIRED to be in proper working order to handle anything above factory power. bushings, swaybar links, wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods, etc...


The steering rack should be tested for slop or fluid leaks (if powered)

tires should be inspected for DOT age/batch, tread life, etc...

brakes should be clean, greased pins, good and even pad wear, etc..

the big rear trailing arm bushing NEEDS to be in good condition

the rear compensator buishing of the lower front control arm NEEDS to be in good condition (replaced if original, no matter condition)


LOTS anbd LOTS of shit to look at.


Take several weeks to inspect and correct. Then you can enter the world of boost.
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Old 11-20-2018, 05:44 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I would go with a higher turbo mount kit and be sure you use the largest return line. Also be sure the blow by isnt too bad It can pressure the turbo. Turbos dont exactly seal so oil can get into the intake and burn in the chamber leaving extra deposits which raises your compretion ratio which then kills your engine. A large vavle cover vent can help but there other issues with that.

On daily driven? If you put huge miles on your set up or boost alot you should rebuild your turbo before it smokes the engine. Race turbos get rebuilt after a couple races I didnt think of track days as all out racing but that and boosting alot took its toll on my last build and the engine had to come apart because the tubro was leaking,,, it wasnt even smoking but no1 cylinder had extra build up and started detonating while boosting on hot days. the engine was great exept for having to blast the pistons.

Last edited by slo_eg8; 11-29-2018 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 11-29-2018, 05:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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lol why is this in the NA section?
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Old 01-17-2019, 05:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I did a similar project to my car a few years ago. As someone else has mentioned, the most important thing to do is ensure that your car is in proper condition before turbocharging. With that said, here are some of my tips:

440cc injectors will run fine for your horsepower goal. You can find good ones with a reasonable price on eBay. They are used DSM blacktop injectors, that have usually been cleaned and tested. You should be able to get them for around $100 with the required resistor box.

For such a low hp goal, I’d recommend the t28 turbo. It’ll provide you with a very useable power band and it’ll spoil very fast. I’m running a t28 and it has quite a bit of low-end grunt. Unfortunately my turbo begins to run out of power up top so be sure to do research on which one you want before purchasing. For referencing, I’m running a rebuilt Saab turbo. I believe the model is TD04H-15t (?)

You will need to chip the ECU. This is what enables tuners to run their magic at the dyno. You can use HAmotorsports or Pheaeable.net, both of those offer chipping services and sell chipped ECU’s. You’ll also need a jumper harness.

Be aware that you will need to change a lot more things so that the car will be able to support a turbo.
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Old 01-25-2019, 07:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
Your goal of 150whp is very realistic, and easy.

Read the stickies like advised by slo

Read user builds on here to get an idea of what parts they used and more importnantly, WHY they used certain parts.

You really should have a wealth of knowledge prior to doing a turbo project, as iut prevents things from taking forever.


150whp is possible on stock engines with good tuning.

Good fuel inejctors, a solid performing fuel pump, and a good tuning solution are the keys to the engine surviving.


You should FIRST make sure the car is prepared. Verify timing, verify ALL sensors are operating properly and communicating with the ecu properly, verify there are no leaks, no poor compression, verify all fluids are in ""healthy"" condition....

Suspension is REQUIRED to be in proper working order to handle anything above factory power. bushings, swaybar links, wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods, etc...


The steering rack should be tested for slop or fluid leaks (if powered)

tires should be inspected for DOT age/batch, tread life, etc...

brakes should be clean, greased pins, good and even pad wear, etc..

the big rear trailing arm bushing NEEDS to be in good condition

the rear compensator buishing of the lower front control arm NEEDS to be in good condition (replaced if original, no matter condition)


LOTS anbd LOTS of shit to look at.


Take several weeks to inspect and correct. Then you can enter the world of boost.
Good info. Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by eulerspiral View Post
I would go with a higher turbo mount kit and be sure you use the largest return line. Also be sure the blow by isnt too bad It can pressure the turbo. Turbos dont exactly seal so oil can get into the intake and burn in the chamber leaving extra deposits which raises your compretion ratio which then kills your engine. A large vavle cover vent can help but there other issues with that.

On daily driven? If you put huge miles on your set up or boost alot you should rebuild your turbo before it smokes the engine. Race turbos get rebuilt after a couple races I didnt think of track days as all out racing but that and boosting alot took its toll on my last build and the engine had to come apart because the tubro was leaking,,, it wasnt even smoking but no1 cylinder had extra build up and started detonating while boosting on hot days. the engine was great exept for having to blast the pistons.
Another good one. Thanks

Last edited by slo_eg8; 01-25-2019 at 08:49 PM.
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