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Old 12-31-2017, 11:09 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How's this setup look.

Block D16y7
75.5mm OEM D16z6 pistons
King bearings
Hasting piston rings

Y8 hand ported head
Stock cam
Edlebrock IM
ARP headstuds

Exedy D17 clutch
Competion Clutch 11lb flywheel
Greddy 15g turbo kit
EBay intercooler kit 2" hot side 2.5 cold
2.25 catback
Cherry bomb res magnaflow muff
ID 410cc injectors
Walbro fuel pump

I'm planning on this setup to get me around 175-200hp or 10psi max. Possible?
I still need to buy some parts (clutch,injectors,pump)
The Exedy clutch will be my limiting factor am I right? Will it hold?
I'm trying to save money but I know I SHOULD get the Walbro and HiProfile's 410cc injectors.
Will I be okay with my 310cc prelude injectors I found and stock pump?
Will be tuned by me or on a dyno with a local tuner.
Anything that I'm missing to hit this goal?
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Old 01-04-2018, 04:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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For you hp goals and turbo setup i would sell the edelbrock and use a stock Z6 manifold or y8.Use the money from that and buy some H-beam rods .
The limiting factor here is really the rods (and pistons).The rest of it could be changed over in the future if you wanted to do so.
The most important part in any y series build is the oil pump .Don't forget about that,get a ported pump or port it yourself or buy a endyn one.

RDX injectors might also be a good replacement they are cheaper then ID or hi profile's.Or if you found some bigger ones for cheap that's even better.

As for fuel pumps this is what i have gathered from the internet :


The best oem honda fuel pump is the AP2 S2K pump .
AP2 S2K - [email protected], [email protected]
Used around $50 denso aftermarket is $70-$80 (Denso 951-0005)
+97 prelude pump also has 160lph but has much less flow at higher psi. +/- 40lph @ 80psi .

Evo 9 fuel pump is 190lph and gives 106lph @80psi .
Oem part nr. MN176728
Denso aftermarket nr 195130-3570

Downside is the evo 9 pump draws much more amps and you need to rewire the fuel pump wires.

Walbro pump draws much less amps and flows more ,so the $100 for the walbro isn't all that much ,you could use the walbro 190lph so you don't need a fpr .

Last edited by hondanickx; 01-04-2018 at 04:31 AM.
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Old 01-11-2018, 11:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I would use a heavier flywheel
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Old 01-14-2018, 09:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Didn't think about selling the Edlebrock.
I bought it in here for a good deal. Already had a y8 one. Old rather keep it to get more hp at a lower psi. I can afford speedfactory new extended rods and pistons combo but I don't wanna get all crazy with it cuz I have a small greddy 15g turbo,mani,downpipe combo I bought to use.

I'm leaning to the walbro 190 pump. Rather have a new one if I have to buy one if stock fuel pump wont supply enough fuel.

Light weight flywheel will be more fun I think for daily driving. It will hurt 1/4 mile tho.
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Old 01-14-2018, 12:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I also think that the rods are the weak link here. The flywheel shouldn’t hurt ur times too much specially with the Greddy turbo kit. I’d at least change the rod bolts if funds are low and oil pump.
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Old 01-14-2018, 12:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I was expecting a bigger change when i put in my flywheel (11.9lbs), i didn't notice any negative effects, i just found it easier to revmatch now that the engine was a bit more responsive.

My 450cc injectors hit a touch over 50% duty cycle at 11psi. I think your 410s would be ok, but i would hesitate going any smaller than that, I've read it's not good to be working your injectors near their maximum duty cycle.
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Old 02-09-2018, 11:25 AM   #7 (permalink)
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i made 158trq/147hp the other day on a Dyno Pack dyno. (heard a stock D16y8 pulls 80whp stock lololol)

d16y8
greddy TD04, CX racing FMIC, BOV, and piping
8psi, falls to about 6 PSI around 6700.
550cc RCs
walbro 255
FPR
2" TBE (catless)
stock bottom end and head
exedy Stg 1

We are really limited on the bottom end of these motors to make more than 200whp. i wanted this set up to be responsive and maybe for canyons or track. but itpulls friggin great! and it makes me giggle. so im happy with it for now.
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Old 02-09-2018, 05:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ls_bcrr29 View Post
I also think that the rods are the weak link here. The flywheel shouldn’t hurt ur times too much specially with the Greddy turbo kit. I’d at least change the rod bolts if funds are low and oil pump.
I was thinking of skipping those two parts to keep cost down. I don't think I'm going to be revving really high because it's my DD and because the Boost be down low. I still need to spec my other oil pump but if I do a Vitara ebay t3/4 turbo setup I will be replacing those two parts. What do you think, good idea?


Quote:
Originally Posted by EFB055 View Post
I was expecting a bigger change when i put in my flywheel (11.9lbs), i didn't notice any negative effects, i just found it easier to revmatch now that the engine was a bit more responsive.

My 450cc injectors hit a touch over 50% duty cycle at 11psi. I think your 410s would be ok, but i would hesitate going any smaller than that, I've read it's not good to be working your injectors near their maximum duty cycle.
Yeah I think I'm going to buy high-profile 600cc injectors just to be safe and have room to grow if I do the Vitara eBay 300< build
Did u install the flywheel before the turbo? What the difference feel like?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bombatape View Post
i made 158trq/147hp the other day on a Dyno Pack dyno. (heard a stock D16y8 pulls 80whp stock lololol)

d16y8
greddy TD04, CX racing FMIC, BOV, and piping
8psi, falls to about 6 PSI around 6700.
550cc RCs
walbro 255
FPR
2" TBE (catless)
stock bottom end and head
exedy Stg 1

We are really limited on the bottom end of these motors to make more than 200whp. i wanted this set up to be responsive and maybe for canyons or track. but itpulls friggin great! and it makes me giggle. so im happy with it for now.

That's awesome. That's kind of what I'm trying to build. Something basic in cheat like that with almost double the horsepower if I'm lucky. How did the intercooler kit fit, did you have to cut some pieces off?
How's the clutch working like?
What oil feed line u use?


I'm about to get $900 for my tax return in a couple weeks and I still need to buy some parts left.
I've been building this for 2 years now time to get the show on the road.

Parts I'm thinking of buying
600cc IN injectors $250 https://www.injectornation.com/produ...18-d16-h22-f22
EBay intercooler kit $160 https://m.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CIVIC-9...gAAOxydlFSqRAZ
Go-Autoworks pro oil lines $120
Exedy D17 oem clutch $100
Dyno tube $350+

Last edited by StuckInTexas; 02-09-2018 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 02-09-2018, 09:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I would skip the flywheel, if you haven’t decided on that already, and look at a better clutch
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Old 02-11-2018, 01:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuckInTexas View Post
Yeah I think I'm going to buy high-profile 600cc injectors just to be safe and have room to grow if I do the Vitara eBay 300< build
Did u install the flywheel before the turbo? What the difference feel like?
Yeah i whacked a supercharger on with my existing flywheel and exedy clutch (OEM pressure plate i believe) and the clutch/pressure plate combo couldn't keep up. So i decided to do an ACT clutch and flywheel combo. TBH if you're doing a budget build, i think the difference is fairly subtle and the money spent on a lighter flywheel would be better spent somewhere else.

That being said, i loved the better response, loved how much easier it was to rev match (the engine will rev much quicker in neutral than before) and i didn't notice any idle issues or negative effects.

I'm not sure how it would feel with a turbo i would think the improved response would be less noticeable.
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Old 02-28-2018, 07:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paterico View Post
I would skip the flywheel, if you haven?t decided on that already, and look at a better clutch
I just bought the clutch. I'm hoping it holds 10psi>175whp

Quote:
Originally Posted by EFB055 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by StuckInTexas View Post
Yeah I think I'm going to buy high-profile 600cc injectors just to be safe and have room to grow if I do the Vitara eBay 300< build
Did u install the flywheel before the turbo? What the difference feel like?
Yeah i whacked a supercharger on with my existing flywheel and exedy clutch (OEM pressure plate i believe) and the clutch/pressure plate combo couldn't keep up. So i decided to do an ACT clutch and flywheel combo. TBH if you're doing a budget build, i think the difference is fairly subtle and the money spent on a lighter flywheel would be better spent somewhere else.

That being said, i loved the better response, loved how much easier it was to rev match (the engine will rev much quicker in neutral than before) and i didn't notice any idle issues or negative effects.

I'm not sure how it would feel with a turbo i would think the improved response would be less noticeable.
Awesome thanks for that info. I already have the flywheel maybe I'll try selling it.
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Old 03-11-2018, 08:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I ran a similar setup. Rods are week compression will be high any detonation will be bad. Be carful with your timing. Also my stk cluch did not stand a chance. That turbo is going to come on strong with that kind of compression. You may have some cam timing and ignition timing issues if you are going to try and run OBD 1 with the Y8 cam.
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Old 03-11-2018, 08:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Do the oil pump mod. That engine will easy pull to 7k. Oil system is week on y7.
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Old 03-12-2018, 05:50 AM   #14 (permalink)
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oil system is fine on the Y sub series. Its simply LESS flow and pressure than the A6 and Z6 engines. That doesnt mean its garbage/weak. And no one knows why the hell honda decided getting an extra few miles per tank was worth the cut down of the oil system. I certainly dont. GET ALL THE PRESSURE!!

a porting of the oil pump and a 25 thous shim is great for all the oil pumps in the ol D's

If you are careful and measure, can go up to a 45 or 50 thous shim and gain closer to 15 psi. measurement will vary by location, but an extra 10psi of pressure or more is great.


When you port the oil pump, you will be dropping the operating pressure, so that is why a shim is recommended with porting.
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Old 03-12-2018, 01:01 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I ran a similar set up except with the d16a6 and made similar numbers on 7-9psi 175whp and tq. The car is a blast to drive on the street with the crazy early torque and full boost by 2600-2700rpm
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Old 03-14-2018, 04:10 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thompson335 View Post
I ran a similar setup. Rods are week compression will be high any detonation will be bad. Be carful with your timing. Also my stk cluch did not stand a chance. That turbo is going to come on strong with that kind of compression. You may have some cam timing and ignition timing issues if you are going to try and run OBD 1 with the Y8 cam.
Do you have dyno or tuning #'s ? Why would I have cam or ignition timing issues? Its a Y block.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thompson335 View Post
Do the oil pump mod. That engine will easy pull to 7k. Oil system is week on y7.
I think I will do that if I use or buy a new pump for the spare block.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
oil system is fine on the Y sub series. Its simply LESS flow and pressure than the A6 and Z6 engines. That doesnt mean its garbage/weak. And no one knows why the hell honda decided getting an extra few miles per tank was worth the cut down of the oil system. I certainly dont. GET ALL THE PRESSURE!!

a porting of the oil pump and a 25 thous shim is great for all the oil pumps in the ol D's

If you are careful and measure, can go up to a 45 or 50 thous shim and gain closer to 15 psi. measurement will vary by location, but an extra 10psi of pressure or more is great.


When you port the oil pump, you will be dropping the operating pressure, so that is why a shim is recommended with porting.
I always read port don't shim the pump, never read porting will decrease pressure, thought the bearings control pressure. Cam anybody confirm this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty d View Post
I ran a similar set up except with the d16a6 and made similar numbers on 7-9psi 175whp and tq. The car is a blast to drive on the street with the crazy early torque and full boost by 2600-2700rpm
Awesome. I can't wait to tear up the streets.

On a side note I installed the 12lb flywheel and D17 clutch kit last week. Took me 2 solid days. Im just gonna boost this Y8 block I have now.
Next step is Ebay 2 row radiator with OEM fan & shroud , new upper and lower house, and Glowshift 15psi boost gauge.
Fuel gauge and walbro 255 and then start tubing my basemap I have before starting on the turbo kit.
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Old 03-15-2018, 04:40 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Anytime you increase the volume under a controlled flow, you see a pressure drop. garden hose with and without the thumb on the end theory. smaller volume at same flow, more pressure. bigger volume at same flow, lower pressure.


Ive not recommended shimming in the past because it is too easy to go too thick a shim and cause the relief spring to bind up and cause damage.

25 thousandths is a great starting point. move to a 35 thousandths if you want a few PSI extra.


The best way to test is to get temeprature readings for engine, oil, and ambient, measure the oil pressure at a specific RPM or several points, break it down, do your pump porting, and retest without touching the relief shims. Then shim until you match or go beyond the initial pressure.

F and H series guys have it easy, they have the relief external accessible



Us D and B series guys, you can buy eyelet wiring connectors, like the yellow 10/12 gauge variety, and cut the crimp end off, and simply drill the hole larger to fit. Then you just measure the thickness, and adjust as needed.

else you can go to mcmaster-carr and probably find the exact washer you want.
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Old 03-16-2018, 04:23 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I consider the volume increase a must with the turbo. You will be pulling off oil to lube and cool the turbo that was not considered in the original design.
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Old 03-20-2018, 06:56 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
Anytime you increase the volume under a controlled flow, you see a pressure drop. garden hose with and without the thumb on the end theory. smaller volume at same flow, more pressure. bigger volume at same flow, lower pressure.


Ive not recommended shimming in the past because it is too easy to go too thick a shim and cause the relief spring to bind up and cause damage.

25 thousandths is a great starting point. move to a 35 thousandths if you want a few PSI extra.


The best way to test is to get temeprature readings for engine, oil, and ambient, measure the oil pressure at a specific RPM or several points, break it down, do your pump porting, and retest without touching the relief shims. Then shim until you match or go beyond the initial pressure.

F and H series guys have it easy, they have the relief external accessible



Us D and B series guys, you can buy eyelet wiring connectors, like the yellow 10/12 gauge variety, and cut the crimp end off, and simply drill the hole larger to fit. Then you just measure the thickness, and adjust as needed.

else you can go to mcmaster-carr and probably find the exact washer you want.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thompson335 View Post
I consider the volume increase a must with the turbo. You will be pulling off oil to lube and cool the turbo that was not considered in the original design.
https://www.d-series.org/forums/engin.../topics/107322


Rushi, acid beaver, and transex are all against shimming... Port and .20?
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Old 07-24-2018, 03:16 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I think I'm gonna buy a new pump and port and shim it. Can I just buy a washer at Lowe's or why do u suggest a wire connector for?
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