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Old 04-26-2017, 04:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Gt17 or gt25 ching chong

So building the supercharger setup isn't on hold but w airflow math indicating more power than my current motor can take necessitating a turbo build w the y7 backup motor ...long story short it's a longer term project than I'd like it to be so in the short term in piecing together a turbo set-up w the goal of hitting 140-155 at the wheels.

Motor is a jdm nonvtec d15b generic replacement motor w some miles and it's dd so power over 6 grand isn't what I'm looking for. Falling off and just holding power flat from 5k-6500 sounds ideal.

Are ding dong gt17 and gt25 clones the ticket?

I'm only planning on rocking stock wastegate pressure which seems to be 8psi for both.

I'd probably port the wastegate and be happy w whatever power it made as long as it's not blowing up.

Speaking of...

If that much boost down low is gonna blow me up even w a small volume and stock boost, what would be a better selection? T25 flange stuff is plentiful and inexpensive!

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Old 04-26-2017, 04:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Why not look at an OEM junk yard turbo from a recked car? Should get you what you want easily with a little research it shouldn't be too hard to find the right turbo. Just a thought.
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Old 04-26-2017, 06:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Word, I'd go either way if I came across a low mile turbo but isn't a dingaling Chang jobber halfway decent these days, especially if they aren't being pushed?

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Old 04-26-2017, 07:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Sadly I'm not too familiar with many junkyard turbos. Pretty much just look for a car that came with a factory turbo and has similar displacement. Any of those should work fairly well. I know the Pontiac Solstice is a good one along with Evo turbos and there's also Saabs. Just to name a few. You could probably get one out of a Nissan Juke or maybe a Ford Focus Ecoboost I know they have them stock.
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Old 04-26-2017, 07:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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only issue with junkyard turos are they dont use a T3 flange and alot of custom work to be done to get it to work with t-3 flanges
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Old 04-27-2017, 04:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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only issue with junkyard turos are they dont use a T3 flange and alot of custom work to be done to get it to work with t-3 flanges
I've never messed with junkyard turbos, but I wouldn't imagine it would cost too much to have someone fab up an adapter plate for whichever turbo he chose. Don't people do that all the time with the DSM ones anyway?
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Old 04-27-2017, 05:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Well gt17 and gt25 turbo are oem sizes, I'm more into whether a small turbo boosting below 3k is gonna blow be up. Was told a long time ago lag is good and boost up top doesn't break stuff as easily.....but I dislike lag
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Old 04-27-2017, 05:48 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Well gt17 and gt25 turbo are oem sizes, I'm more into whether a small turbo boosting below 3k is gonna blow be up. Was told a long time ago lag is good and boost up top doesn't break stuff as easily.....but I dislike lag
That lag is good stuff, is just a matter of personal preference. Lag is good for getting traction off the line though. Some people like it to lag all the way until 5,500rpm and have great power for a whopping 2,000rpm before they have to shift. Others like to have boost off idle and smoke their tires through 3rd gear before they get traction. I'll be going for something in-between so I can stay out of boost during normal commuting, but as soon as I put my foot down it will almost instantly spool up and should hold strong to redline. If it falls off a little early, I'm ok with that.

For your power goals there shouldn't be a problem boosting, regardless of when the power comes on. As far as safety and reliability are concerned, it's mostly in having a good tune.

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Old 04-27-2017, 07:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Older Volvo turbos used a T3 flange. My 13C was loads of fun and got me to 180 WHP. It was about the size of a T25. Pretty much zero lag on either my mini me or D17 set up. Worked great until the D17 pushed it out of it's efficiency range and it ate itself.
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Old 04-27-2017, 08:11 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Older Volvo turbos used a T3 flange. My 13C was loads of fun and got me to 180 WHP. It was about the size of a T25. Pretty much zero lag on either my mini me or D17 set up. Worked great until the D17 pushed it out of it's efficiency range and it ate itself.
Seems like that would be a pretty good choice then. It would be really easy to slap one of those on a cheap log manifold and it would make the power he wants. Out g curiosity, how much boost were you running before pushing it out of its efficiency. I'm being lazy, I don't want to go looking around for the compressor map and plotting it to figure it out lol.
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Old 04-27-2017, 02:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Love ur build threads btw
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Old 04-27-2017, 05:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Autox, it sounds like your motor (b7) may have been in similar shape as mine is, an unknown mileage jdm motor w 45k since the swap, w great maintenance. Do you think your issues with the rear seal were pcv/catchcan related, or can I expect similar failures at low boost levels?

A more detailed story on the failures of your b7 and the events that led to it's eventual destruction, what <10k after going turbo would be a great read if youd indulge us...

I don't run my car hard daily and do 2-3 events (drag or autox) a year plus a few laps on weekends when i work corners (only partial laps each run to and from my station, but with gusto)....honestly now, it sounds like you ran it pretty hard for that 10k. With less arduous use, can I reasonably convince my other half that reliability won't be problematic, and still sleep soundly knowing I'm not living on borrowed time? (Both w car and family lol) ....i can lay off the autocross. Dunno bout laps and drags
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Old 04-27-2017, 09:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Out of all the China made turbos available, CXracing is the one I'd go with.

I've read some decent reviews on them.
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Old 04-28-2017, 09:53 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Seems like that would be a pretty good choice then. It would be really easy to slap one of those on a cheap log manifold and it would make the power he wants. Out g curiosity, how much boost were you running before pushing it out of its efficiency. I'm being lazy, I don't want to go looking around for the compressor map and plotting it to figure it out lol.
You likely won't find a compressor map for the 13c anyway ... I never did. It didn't like 14 psi ... I was running it around 10 - 12 (IIRC) ... but it spooled way too fast on my stroker and it started to fall on it's face at about 6500 RPM. It was fine up to 6800 ish on my 1.5 mini me.

You can find some dyno plots in the "stolen" build thread in my sig.
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Old 04-28-2017, 10:05 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Autox, it sounds like your motor (b7) may have been in similar shape as mine is, an unknown mileage jdm motor w 45k since the swap, w great maintenance. Do you think your issues with the rear seal were pcv/catchcan related, or can I expect similar failures at low boost levels?

A more detailed story on the failures of your b7 and the events that led to it's eventual destruction, what <10k after going turbo would be a great read if youd indulge us...

I don't run my car hard daily and do 2-3 events (drag or autox) a year plus a few laps on weekends when i work corners (only partial laps each run to and from my station, but with gusto)....honestly now, it sounds like you ran it pretty hard for that 10k. With less arduous use, can I reasonably convince my other half that reliability won't be problematic, and still sleep soundly knowing I'm not living on borrowed time? (Both w car and family lol) ....i can lay off the autocross. Dunno bout laps and drags
B7 motor did not fail ... it stared smoking after adding boost ... at ~180k miles the rings were just tired. I had the bottom end built because ... why not. Not because of any grenading of the B7 bottom end. I had originally planned to build the B7 bottom end ... but it just ended up being simpler to do the D16 stroker.

Rear main seal was just old and tired ... and gave me an excuse to replace my transmission. I had zero issues once the transmission and seal were replaced.

Pretty much any "problem" I had was extremely minimal and I just used it as an excuse to upgrade parts ... instead of just repairing the existing problem.

I was not kind to the car and it kept begging for more flogging.

Another option you can look at ... the Volvos that I got the 13c from also used a Garrett T25 (same flange) interchangeably ... you might be able to find parts for the T25 more easily than the 13C.
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Old 04-28-2017, 09:38 PM   #16 (permalink)
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ding dong ping pong ching chong!

Keep the AFR in check, dont detonate, and keep the EGTs from melting shit and you are GTG!
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Old 05-01-2017, 05:15 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I'm going on my 2nd year with my ebay ching chang 50 trim turbo. It does lag a bit until 4k but it pulls hard after that and stays in boost with good shifting.

With the amount of extra work it takes to use a junkyard turbo these days its kind of a no brainer to just go with a ebay turbo. They are proven to work. Mine is a rev9. Id recommend one of those or like the other guy said, a cx racing.
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Old 05-01-2017, 05:21 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Gtg and proven to work sounds good to me!
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Old 05-02-2017, 05:47 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Just picked up extra work as a corner marshal at Pacific Raceway and the Ridge in Shelton so I might be able to start collecting bits sooner than later
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Old 05-11-2017, 11:22 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Just a fyi, mazda speed protege are ball bearing t25 and spool super fast.
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