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Old 05-21-2016, 03:16 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default D16z6 build for 200 hp. Opinions?

Im starting to gather parts for a small turbo build. My goal is around 200 HP. The motor will be a z6 head and IM on a y7 block. Possibly b series throttle body. The block may get new bearings and rings depending on what condition I get it in. Head is stock but new oem parts. Car will be my daily driver and maybe some autocross.

The turbo setup will be as follows
Go Autoworks cast manifold
Garret T25 turbo from an older Saab. (yes I know it's small and will not have top end) it was free and I already have it.
Side mount IC probably from a VW
Custom IC pipping
DSM injectors
Custom down pipe
Go Autoworks oil lines
Demon 2 w/neptune

Should this setup be able to reach my goal?

After playing with this I plan on building a d16 bottom end with pistons and rods. Suggestions are welcome on rods and pistons. I would like to stay around the stock compression ratio.
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Old 05-21-2016, 05:11 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Why do you want to run a vw side mount? The inlet and outlet on those don't look very Honda friendly. I'd also ditch the DSM injectors and get a set from Injector nation then you dont have to wire in a resistor box. You need to add a set of arp head studs to your parts list. And when you go to built another d16 block I'd recommend an obd1 block. You're goals are practically identical to mine, you should check out my build thread.
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Old 05-21-2016, 07:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Add some ARP head studs to your list although a few folks have hit 200 HP without using them. Use the DSM injectors if that's what you got but new injectors will almost guarantee equally flowed injectors and you wont have to use a resistor pack, not that its much work BTW. If you already have the SMIC and its not a pain to fit then go ahead and use it , otherwise a $50 eBay FMIC is your best bet. Lastly i would add a fuel pump to the list. Stock pumps have taken folks to 200 HP but we would be gambling with a 20 year old pump.
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Old 05-21-2016, 08:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Theres alot of odds and ends your not figurng into your build that add up..

+3 on the injectors. Plug and play make things so much easier.

Also, I ddnt know AutoWorks had a T25 cast manifold. Thought he only had T3.
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Old 05-21-2016, 03:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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My goal was to stay under 220hp so here is what I have done.

stock d16z6 with a y7 cam
ported oil pump
opened up main bearings for better rod oiling
Im calling it a-hybrid log manifold
precision 5431 on 9psi.
full 3" exhaust
Tial MV-S wastegate
untouched performer x intake manifold
omni 70mm throttle body with omni 3 bar map
big fmic that is a back door set up (basically 1g dsm)
aem fuel rail
FID1000 injectors
AEM 044 rep fuel pump
also got a 2jz tucked engine harness since these cars are so old I didnt trust the wiring anymore

virtual dyno has it at 183hp and 173tq, it went [email protected] last night at the track in full street trim on a 2.1 60'. The car is a lot of fun to drive and if the head gasket pops I will get some studs at that point, but so far the cooling is on point. It never broke 194 at the track and usually driving around the temps will actually drop some in a pull. It even burns a little bit of oil.
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Old 05-21-2016, 04:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Holy injector overkill

You might want to downsize to smaller injectors, 1000cc is wayy to much for your power level.
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Old 05-21-2016, 04:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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op should do some more reading. there is a showcase section of people who have built 200+ hp cars. hop, skip, and a click away
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Esotericimage View Post
Holy injector overkill

You might want to downsize to smaller injectors, 1000cc is wayy to much for your power level.
I have 900cc injectors in my set up and it idles just fine and drives smooth.
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Old 05-21-2016, 07:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well youll get a better spray pattern and opening timing with an injector sized to the power level..

Smaller injectors stay open longer vs the same power level where large injectors will use a small amount of time and short blast.

This is no secret.

Just because your tuner spent extra time working your map set up doesnt mean its optimal.
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Old 05-22-2016, 05:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Hmmm. Well I bought my injectors from Hiprofile and was originally looking at a smaller injector. I told him my power goals and I that I was hoping for more in the future. He told me injector size won't matter as long a the tuner knows what he's doing. So unless he fed me a line of bs to make a few more bucks off me, I'd like to believe him.
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Old 05-22-2016, 05:56 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Ok... On the flip side..

I re used my 600cc injectors from my turbo build for my NA build and while tuning, my tuner said it would be best to use 310's or even cleaned and rematched OEM for my engine power output.


But, you telling someone that you plan on growing in the future, then yes, go big and keep them as you gain more power.
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Old 05-22-2016, 06:25 AM   #12 (permalink)
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That's a good point I could see it making a difference in a N/a application.
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Old 05-22-2016, 06:53 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I have a set of Toyota 3sgte 540cc injectors on my turbo build and I think they are and will be the perfect size for me and many builds I see on here. They are good for approx 375 whp, more than I think I will ever make on turbo D.
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Old 05-22-2016, 07:14 AM   #14 (permalink)
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That's a good point I could see it making a difference in a N/a application.
It makes a difference on all applications. Its just like people running too big of a MAP sensor. Youre wasting resolution for tuning.
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Old 05-22-2016, 08:34 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Injectors have come a long ways big cc injectors can handle short on time and have a good spray petter still. That's not to say a smaller Injectors would need be better.

If my car finally last a summer without anything dumb happening then it will get a built motor over winter and the boost turned up. Then my fuel set up won't be so overkill.
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Old 05-22-2016, 04:18 PM   #16 (permalink)
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well this is the basics of my build. I don't have the IC yet. Only reason I was going with side mount is because the junkyard has them for $21. Injectors for the same reason. Although I may have found some RC's for $200. I didnt even think about the flange on the go autoworks manifold I'm going to have to look into that
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