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Old 02-18-2016, 06:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Post boost questions

So I don't want to get flamed so I will post what info I have found. Maybe It can help someone with the same questions.....

I am trying to find a good guide on a turbo DIY. So I can find out how to run the oil and return lines correctly and also the correct way of how people are running their wires/hoses through the firewall.

I found this Turbo DIY. Which is great but no pics...

Complete Guide for Drag 3 Turbo Installation - Honda-Tech

great write up for the resistor box wiring

https://www.hondata.com/techinjectorwiring.html



ANYWAYS

My questions are, Whats the easiest place to run my hoses for my boost guage and the biggest and safest place to run my wideband out of the firewall? I can imagine the boost guage hose will be easy but just want to make sure nothing melts.....or looks like shit. lol.

I will be pulling my oil from the filter (sandwhich feed plate) only went that route so I can run a oil pressure guage as well.

need to figure out the return line. Not sure if I should just buy a spare oil pan and work on that so I can just swap everything over. This is my daily......but I can always borrow my wifes car for a day or two.

FINAL question. What's the best way to get a stupid ass snap ring clamp off of a BOV. I bought the plier tool and it keeps coming off and royally pissing me off.

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Old 02-18-2016, 07:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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What year is your civic? There's a couple places to run wires and such through on the fire wall. If you don't have an aftermarket IM, I suggest using a vacuum block.

I'll check out you build and just comment on there.
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Old 02-18-2016, 08:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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What year is your civic? There's a couple places to run wires and such through on the fire wall. If you don't have an aftermarket IM, I suggest using a vacuum block.

I'll check out you build and just comment on there.
Thanks man! I have a 98 EX coupe. I have been trying to get my fat ass under the dash lol. I have seen where the wiring harness goes out (from the fuse box) but when I look down in the engine bay I don't even see the harness. Idk lol maybe im missing something.

PS. I miss the street racing in Hawaii lol. Oahu! h1 and h3 runs for days haha
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Old 02-18-2016, 11:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks man! I have a 98 EX coupe. I have been trying to get my fat ass under the dash lol. I have seen where the wiring harness goes out (from the fuse box) but when I look down in the engine bay I don't even see the harness. Idk lol maybe im missing something.

PS. I miss the street racing in Hawaii lol. Oahu! h1 and h3 runs for days haha
Ha! Nothing has changed. Some monster k's are coming out of the wood works. Also been seeing gtrs and supras. When were you in Hawaii?

Does the 98 have any grommets on the fire wall? I have a 92 and there's all types of ways to run things through the firewall.
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Old 02-19-2016, 04:17 AM   #5 (permalink)
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just want to make sure nothing melts.....or looks like shit. lol.
If you are worried about the plastic lines for boost and/or oil pressure gauges you can always swap out the plastic line for one made of copper. They use the same fittings. If you don't like the look of copper line, slap some wiring loom on it.
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Old 02-19-2016, 05:36 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I have a 98 EX coupe as well, as for the boost gauge mine came with an external map sensor for the gauge which I mounted on the firewall so the rubber hose is small and goes from intake mani to the map sensor ( don't have to worry about it melting )

As for routing wires through the fire wall; for my build there was a rubber grommet behind the intake where the A/C / heat cable was coming though. Since I took out a/c i put the switch permanently on heat setting and just got rid of the cable. That hole is now where all my wires go through, and you cant really see it with the intake in the way.

I have a sandwich plate for my oil feed tied out of the way from heated sources coming over the valve cover. Your going to need to weld a bung on the oil pan above the oil level. whether you want to buy another pan to do it or just take the one off you have, either way its a quick job. Ill take some pictures and post it to give you a better idea.

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/...l/IMG_0029.jpg

picture of oil drain, its dirty i know..had to drive it from Saint Louis to TN. and can never get oil pan and valve cover to stop leaking lol

Oil Feed
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/...l/IMG_0027.jpg

Hole for wires behind intake
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/...l/IMG_0025.jpg

Last edited by cbidwell; 02-20-2016 at 06:20 AM. Reason: photo update
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Old 02-19-2016, 11:12 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Ha! Nothing has changed. Some monster k's are coming out of the wood works. Also been seeing gtrs and supras. When were you in Hawaii?

Does the 98 have any grommets on the fire wall? I have a 92 and there's all types of ways to run things through the firewall.
I will post pics of my bay for refference. Will be attempting this today lol. Want to get everything outta the way so when my clutch comes everything else can get done

Also I was stationed there from 2011-2014 in the Army Lived all over, waipahu, schofield, etc. I do miss me some don quijote and Genki sushi.....no real sushi places like that here where i live lol.

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Old 02-19-2016, 11:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cbidwell View Post
I have a 98 EX coupe as well, as for the boost gauge mine came with an external map sensor for the gauge which I mounted on the firewall so the rubber hose is small and goes from intake mani to the map sensor ( don't have to worry about it melting )

As for routing wires through the fire wall; for my build there was a rubber grommet behind the intake where the A/C / heat cable was coming though. Since I took out a/c i put the switch permanently on heat setting and just got rid of the cable. That hole is now where all my wires go through, and you cant really see it with the intake in the way.

I have a sandwich plate for my oil feed tied out of the way from heated sources coming over the valve cover. Your going to need to weld a bung on the oil pan above the oil level. whether you want to buy another pan to do it or just take the one off you have, either way its a quick job. Ill take some pictures and post it to give you a better idea.

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/...l/IMG_0029.jpg
picture of oil drain, its dirty i know..had to drive it from Saint Louis to TN. and can never get oil pan and valve cover to stop leaking lol

Oil Feed


Hole for wires behind intake

Looks great dude!!! thank you for the advice. I dont want it to leak any type of oil lol. So Im going to try and do everything right and make sure its 110% before i start beating the piss out of it haha
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Old 02-19-2016, 11:26 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Have you checked youtube? I know of at least one video on "how to turbo your honda over the weekend" or something like that. Wideband I used a plug that is in the floor under the dash, comes out right in front of the shifter linkage and that way you can tuck the controller and extra wire they usually have under the carpet. Boost gauge vacuum line and a couple others I ran through a plug in the firewall kind of in between the clutch master cylinder and brake booster.

You can run a oil pressure gauge on a oil sandwich or off of the oil pressure dummy light hole, either way will work but if you use the dummy light spot you need to use bspt-npt fitting and don't crank it down or you can break the block right there, then you run a line to a T fitting (I have to 2 T fittings like this TT) then you zip tie that line to the firewall somewhere, I have the stock dummy light and my line going to the turbo and last hole is plugged.

My advise for that hks snap ring is don't try to use cheap snap ring pliers because they have bad angles and also flex sometimes, also try using some thin needle nose pliers but watch your fingers if the pliers pop out
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Old 02-19-2016, 11:33 AM   #10 (permalink)
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are those real an fittings? thought you wernt supposed to use hose clamps on em
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Old 02-19-2016, 12:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
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are those real an fittings? thought you wernt supposed to use hose clamps on em
I was reading a how to on this last night! This dude put them in a vice and did a buncha shit to properly install them
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Old 02-19-2016, 03:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Looks great dude!!! thank you for the advice. I dont want it to leak any type of oil lol. So Im going to try and do everything right and make sure its 110% before i start beating the piss out of it haha

no problem, and its hard not to leak oil i guess when your pushing 20psi. Only 15 at the moment though.

And I just moved from waipahu! was station on schofield as well, just got to campbell. Awerice was a great help to my build, has a very nice hatch as well.
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:01 PM   #13 (permalink)
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are those real an fittings? thought you wernt supposed to use hose clamps on em
AN push loc fittings, should be used with push loc hose like Chris has them. I've. Had some and they need to be cut off to be removed.

OP, I wish we had a track everyday lol. Yeah cbidwell ditched and left me here to rot lol
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Old 02-20-2016, 09:48 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Alrighty. Is this the correct area to be looking?

Also need to rip all this shit out lol. My cruise doesn't work.....my AC pretty much everything is new....so I'll keep till I buy a AC manifold
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Old 02-20-2016, 11:15 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Alrighty. Is this the correct area to be looking?

Also need to rip all this shit out lol. My cruise doesn't work.....my AC pretty much everything is new....so I'll keep till I buy a AC manifold
yea.

I just used the one on the driverside where all the wires are already going into the cabin.

Also since your removing cruise you can use that port on the manifold for your boost gauge/ bov.

MY wideband harness is zip tie to the brake valve on the firewall.
Doing so gives me a stock like setup. (easily discount and remove the sensor if needed)

*edit

also a metal coat hanger with a string tie to it works great for pulling wires through.
Normally ill tie the string to the wires then tape it so the ends dont get caught on anything while pulling them.
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Last edited by xile6; 02-20-2016 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 02-20-2016, 12:20 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Got it figured out guys! Ripped out the non working cruise control and used that existing hole.
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Old 02-20-2016, 12:24 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Alrighty. Is this the correct area to be looking?

Also need to rip all this shit out lol. My cruise doesn't work.....my AC pretty much everything is new....so I'll keep till I buy a AC manifold
yea.

I just used the one on the driverside where all the wires are already going into the cabin.

Also since your removing cruise you can use that port on the manifold for your boost gauge/ bov.

MY wideband harness is zip tie to the brake valve on the firewall.
Doing so gives me a stock like setup. (easily discount and remove the sensor if needed)

*edit

also a metal coat hanger with a string tie to it works great for pulling wires through.
Normally ill tie the string to the wires then tape it so the ends dont get caught on anything while pulling them.




Oh dang so I can use that port on the manifold!!! Awesome. So just plug the clear boost gauge hose to it? Still gotta figure out the wiring for this stupid gauge. I have the ground done...just need the power. It's to short to reach the fuse box. I bought a foot long piece of 18guage wire to extend the power wire.
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Old 02-20-2016, 01:11 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Id remove that clear line.

Most of the clear stuff is cheap and will Collapse during vacuum.
But yes the clear hose to the cruis controll port on the intake.

Boost gauge wiring is easy.
There Spades On the fise box. 1 hot all the time, 2 ignition, 1 headlights
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Old 02-20-2016, 02:50 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Id remove that clear line.

Most of the clear stuff is cheap and will Collapse during vacuum.
But yes the clear hose to the cruis controll port on the intake.

Boost gauge wiring is easy.
There Spades On the fise box. 1 hot all the time, 2 ignition, 1 headlights
wait what? lol.

pics? So i need to go get 2 more power wires?
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Old 02-20-2016, 04:06 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Pulled from google. Ita for a 92 to 95 but 96 to 00 will pretty much be the same.


As far as wiring goes, it depends on your gauge.
mines had battery, igition power, ground and headlight.
Batt to rememeber my led color choice
Igition power to turn on the led
Ground for ground
And headlight for diming the led when the headlights are on.
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