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Old 02-01-2016, 12:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Using stock oil pan drain plug for turbo drain

Good afternoon all.. Before anyone throws stones... here me out on this one.. please

I have been doing research on options to configure the turbo drain line into the oil pan. I have been reading through discussions on other platforms (such as BMWs) where the stock oil drain plug was modified and used as the turbo drain entrance back into the pan.

Pros:
- Eliminates the need to remove and tap the existing pan. Simply modify the current drain plug or mock up a new fitting with the turbo drain line attached.

Cons:
- the line will likely fill with oil and remain full up to the oil level in the pan.
- Under heavy acceleration, cornering, etc.. the level of oil in the line can increase (I doubt it will reach the turbo exit location though... but I could be wrong)
- Added drain line length needed since the drain plug for my d16y8 pan is on the back side. (I am not overly worried about this though. just need to figure out how to adapt a fitting that can thread into the existing drain hole and wrap the return line around the driver side of the pan).

Alright.. those are my thoughts.. Any suggestions or advice for/against? Anyone done this and can recommend some fittings to use to make it work?

Thx folks
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Old 02-01-2016, 01:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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oil pan has to be removed to install stronger rods and pistons anyway ,,so why not just drill and tap so the drain is above the oil line and not have turbo seal troubles...
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Old 02-01-2016, 01:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Going to run a low boost setup on the stock block. Know of some buddies who have pushed up to 220whp safely on stock internals. If I blow it, I blow it
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Old 02-01-2016, 01:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Do it the way its suppose to be done.
Drop the pan, drill and tap if or use a bolt in fitting.

Makes no sense to do it wrong and blow the motor.
And makes even no sesne at all to not care about blowing a motor.

So end the end do it the correct way.
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Old 02-01-2016, 03:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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the drain plug is on the wrong side of the pan to do this.

with an $18 ebay -10AN bulkhead fitting, there's an easy and no-weld way to do it right the first time
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Old 02-01-2016, 04:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xile6 View Post
Do it the way its suppose to be done.
Drop the pan, drill and tap if or use a bolt in fitting.

Makes no sense to do it wrong and blow the motor.
And makes even no sesne at all to not care about blowing a motor.

So end the end do it the correct way.
Guess I should have clarified my "blown motor" comment.. with my low boost setup, if I would blow the motor from that alone, then I guess it would be time for a new rebuild anyway. I would not be happy, but it would push me over the edge to do a built rotating assembly swap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shoebox_civic View Post
the drain plug is on the wrong side of the pan to do this.

with an $18 ebay -10AN bulkhead fitting, there's an easy and no-weld way to do it right the first time
Agreed.. after thinking about it some more, any hard acceleration run would prevent that oil from moving out of the drain tube into the pan since it is on the backside.

Sounds like I will be doing it the right way after all. Thx for the responses
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Old 02-01-2016, 04:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Why the HELL would you want to slow down the oil draining from the turbo?
Do it the correct way.

If you really want it easier, tap the dipstick hole, run your drain there.

Then run a d17 valvecover and dipstick if you are d-vtec or 96+ nonvtec
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Old 02-01-2016, 07:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Old 02-01-2016, 09:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You can get drain nipple kits that require just one hole drilled, no epoxy/sealant/welding.

5 8" ID Hose Oil Pan Drain Return Fitting Turbo T3 T4 T6 GT30 GT35R T70 Silve | eBay
Turbo Oil Pan Oil Sump Return Drain Plug Adapter Bung Fitting 5 8" 16mm 45 Deg | eBay
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Old 02-02-2016, 12:49 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Problem with that is they will always leak slightly and the nut can back off (maybe not with that set screw). I did this twice, first time I used aluminum -an fittings and after a year the bulkhead nut backed off and the drain became loose and I ruined a brand new clutch by getting oil everywhere, second time I used a steel fitting and "killed" the threads by tacking it with my welder after it was tightened down. This worked fine but I always had an oil mist on the pan, I then hit a rock and blew my pan up so I got a steel pan and fitting then just welded them.
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Old 02-02-2016, 09:02 AM   #11 (permalink)
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2012 9th Gen Honda Civic Si EFR Turbo Kit Installation

Found that article this afternoon.. Some good info in "Step 3: Prep for oil drain"
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Old 02-02-2016, 09:48 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiProfile View Post
Thanks for posting that I might go that route.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blu3 View Post
Problem with that is they will always leak slightly and the nut can back off (maybe not with that set screw). I did this twice, first time I used aluminum -an fittings and after a year the bulkhead nut backed off and the drain became loose and I ruined a brand new clutch by getting oil everywhere, second time I used a steel fitting and "killed" the threads by tacking it with my welder after it was tightened down. This worked fine but I always had an oil mist on the pan, I then hit a rock and blew my pan up so I got a steel pan and fitting then just welded them.
Wouldn't thread lock solve the nut backoff issue?
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Old 02-02-2016, 02:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Not all threadlock likes to be around oil and a constant heating and cooling environment.

would need the kind of threadlock they use in transmission builds. Bone might know what Im talking about.

I read about it after watching a bunch of T5 rebuild videos on youtube
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Old 02-02-2016, 06:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
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first time I used aluminum -an fittings and after a year the bulkhead nut backed off and the drain became loose
The straight version has a special-ish o-ring and even a jamb screw to keep the nut from spinning. Using hondabond for both threadlocker & thread sealant would help quite a bit too.

The first non-solid drain I used was just a T3 turbo-side drain flange. I used decent SS bolts (head inside the pan) & hondabond along with lock washers & lock nuts. It's stayed tight for the last few years.
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Old 02-02-2016, 11:51 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You're thinking too hard.

Coat the Threads in JB weld.

Tighten until its about to strip/deform the pan.

Done
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Old 02-04-2016, 03:26 AM   #16 (permalink)
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sounds like you made up your mind before you made this thread. Go right ahead and try to re-invent the wheel and post your results
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Old 02-04-2016, 04:36 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
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sounds like you made up your mind before you made this thread. Go right ahead and try to re-invent the wheel and post your results
Have yet to make up my mind actually.. While I am more leaning towards the recommended route of tapping the pan on the forward side just to eliminate risk, I still haven't seen strong evidence against using the stock drain plug. Have continued searching and I have found success stories with guys using the stock plug location (not necessarily on a d16y8 though).
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Old 02-04-2016, 07:19 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Have yet to make up my mind actually.. While I am more leaning towards the recommended route of tapping the pan on the forward side just to eliminate risk, I still haven't seen strong evidence against using the stock drain plug. Have continued searching and I have found success stories with guys using the stock plug location (not necessarily on a d16y8 though).
doesnt work on a d16 motor with the exhaust on the front.
The line would loop and it will just cause headaches.

Now i do believe i saw a 8th gen si civic with the K20 motor using the drain bolt.
But if you look at that setup the drain line is high up and is about a foot long, so its kinda hard to backup.
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Old 02-04-2016, 08:41 AM   #19 (permalink)
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doesnt work on a d16 motor with the exhaust on the front. The line would loop and it will just cause headaches.
Yeah, I think I am just going to avoid the headache and eliminate risk and do it the right way. I do not want to put this full kit in, only to fail the turbo shortly afterwards. Appreciate the info.

On a side note, finished my gauge install this week in prep for the turbo. Modified and used a radio block-off plate:

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Old 02-04-2016, 11:12 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Clean job on the gauge install. Personally I would of utilized the whole block-off plate incase future gauges were required.
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