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Old 10-14-2015, 12:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default d16z6 swap basic boosting options

Hey all!

I have a d16z6 swapped into my classic mini cooper and I was wondering what my options are for boosting. Currently, the only things on the engine are some unknown brand 4-2-1 headers, Skunk2 Manifold, Chipped p28 ECU, and the A/C and Power steering were removed. The car only weighs 1,200lbs with the engine, so 120hp is definitely an improvement from 40hp lol. However, I am going to want a bit more power soon. I was originally going to go with a N/A build, but it seems that boosting is the best bang for the buck. Im aiming for the 170-200hp range when im finished. I have a few questions regarding my options:

1) Can I get away with running on stock internals? Other than maybe some ARP head studs and some top end work?

2) Turbo? Or Rotrex SC? (The Rotrex charger was attractive because I have very little space between the front of the car and the engine, and the Rotrex would not require a turbo manifold)

3) What needs to be done as far as the ECU goes?

4) What is the smallest turbo I can get away with? (Back to the "very little space" thing)

Any other suggestions would be welcomed and appreciated. I am aiming for a fairly reliable setup, but I do want to keep budget in mind. Thanks!
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Old 10-14-2015, 01:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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ARP studs and a good head and deck surface for the OEM d16y8 head gasket to set on.

Stock internals should hold up fine with your power goals.

ECU will have to be re tuned.

What tranny/gearing are you running right now?
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Old 10-14-2015, 01:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Not quite sure. The car is in the shop until next week, so I cant go look right now. I wanna say its the s20 with stock gearing. No LSD. I might change the final drive so that it can go on the highways a bit more comfortably, and Ill throw in an LSD while im in there.
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Old 10-15-2015, 09:44 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The motor was pulled from a stock Del Sol if that helps.
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:02 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Ok, just got off the phone with the shop. I had him check the stamp next to the drain plug and the code is B000.
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:28 AM   #6 (permalink)
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That is the EX/Si gearing with 4.25 FD. You will surely want it a longer F with those small wheels/tire if keeping it near stock size.

I can't believe no one else has chimed in, I don't know much about the whole turbo scene.
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Old 10-15-2015, 11:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I know right? I would love some more insight. Does the A000 transmission have a longer FD?
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Old 10-15-2015, 12:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Has longer gears and FD.

What size wheels/tires are you going to run?
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Old 10-15-2015, 02:12 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I'm not sure if stock studs are ok for 200hp (I'm sure they are with a good tune and good gas) but I ran 166whp and 149tq on my boosted d16y5 completely stock, only thing upgraded was my fuel injectors. Currently my d16y8 is boosted only with arp head studs and I'm making 222whp 177tq (slightly more since I upped the boosted and did some tweaking on the tune), still no upgraded fuel pump (still running 189,xxx mile y8 pump). Don't let anyone tell you it can't be done with stock pump because it can
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Old 10-15-2015, 02:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yes to ARP studs.

By the way, what front end do you have on the car? Most mini honda conversions I've seen have a spaceframe with a one-piece front, so it would be good to know how you fit that all in if the bodywork's stock.

Pictures, please!!
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Old 10-15-2015, 09:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerDrinkin View Post
Has longer gears and FD.

What size wheels/tires are you going to run?
Right now the car is running on 10" Wheels. The tires are 165/70 R10. I will probably be making the switch to 13" Minilites in the future (Christmas is coming ) Its weird though... I drove it down the street and the ratios felt surprisingly normal. I was able to cruise at 65 in 5th at 3500 RPM, which is a little higher than normal, but its tolerable. Plus, I dont intend on taking it on the highway much. Im not sure how much I trust the mechanic who told me what transmission was in it... He seemed very quick to know which one it was and this is the first time ive brought the car to him. I should hopefully get the car back on Monday, and I will check the code then.

Quote:
By the way, what front end do you have on the car? Most mini honda conversions I've seen have a spaceframe with a one-piece front, so it would be good to know how you fit that all in if the bodywork's stock.

Pictures, please!!
The front end is made by a company called Minitech. It is a spaceframe setup, but the specific kit I bought requires no modification to the actual body, other than trimming the inner wings of the engine compartment a bit. Its a pretty tight fit, but ive taken the subframe in and out about a dozen times, so ive got it down lol. Heres a few pics that I have, and a brief video of the day I first got it started. I actually havent taken too many pictures, so some of these pics are a pretty dated. The most recent "picture" i have of it is the video of it starting and running.

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https://vid.me/rAqE
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Old 10-16-2015, 04:17 AM   #12 (permalink)
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thats a sweet little ride.

ARP headstuds , oem y8 head gasket ,Bigger injectors ,and get it tuned.

I think turbo would be a better choice just because .just not alot of room

were you planing on using an intercooler?
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:26 AM   #13 (permalink)
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That is a nice fit, even if tight. The radiator relocation sure makes a difference.

We still have the 1275 A+ engine in ours, which would seem roomy to you ...
... (but not to me!)
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Old 10-16-2015, 08:13 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I ran a Pfab log manifold that was real small.
Here's a pic....



Over here in the UK, loads of people run bone stock engines up to 280bhp. Infact I ran the set up above for 10,000 miles at 280bhp with no issues at all. Other than injectors, it was totally standard. I didn't even open the engine.
If you're keeping the boost low, I wouldn't bother changing anything.

As for turbos, the T25 (or varient) can make a ace low power setup and is pretty small.
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Old 10-16-2015, 08:54 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I ran a Pfab log manifold that was real small.
Here's a pic....



Over here in the UK, loads of people run bone stock engines up to 280bhp. Infact I ran the set up above for 10,000 miles at 280bhp with no issues at all. Other than injectors, it was totally standard. I didn't even open the engine.
If you're keeping the boost low, I wouldn't bother changing anything.

As for turbos, the T25 (or varient) can make a ace low power setup and is pretty small.
About time some agrees with me, no need for all the extra work. If the head gasket goes then ya put arp in but if not just run it as is, only reason I installed arp in my y8 is because I forgot to fill up with premium 91 octane so I got detonation (running 87 octane).
I also say go with a t25, from pictures a rotrex looks like it hangs off the block pretty far. Why not a jrsc? It won't take you past 200hp very easily but can support your lower end goal, I'm a fan of turbos though so I still suggest a small turbo.
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Old 10-16-2015, 08:55 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Nice Frankenstein build, I think it's cool when people drop motors from a different car entirely into another chassis.

If you turbo a D16 you should be able to achieve around 220bhp (max agreed upon limit for stock rods before they bend or snap) and that's on stock everything with a mild 5-7psi on a .63 trim turbo but if you want I would go with an even smaller would spool up quicker. Run a wastegate with around 5psi spring, or get a boost controller.

Everyone always says the weakest link on these motors are the connecting rods, but like said above you can get away with stock rods if you don't up the boost too much.

You can run any OBD1 ecu that's socketed, I have one for sale if interested. There are also a lot of tuning options from Crome->Neptune->Hondata depending on your budget and local tuners availability. Make sure to get one which can control VTEC such as the P28.

I would at minimum upgrade the injectors, get some 320CC injectors should be enough to run moderate to small amounts of boost. A lot of people say you can run the stock injectors and you could, while your in there I would say just replace them you don't want the stock injectors running at 90% or higher duty cycle.

The other consideration is fuel pump, I know nothing about the fuel pump in a mini or if it will be sufficient to supply the fuel for a boosted D16 setup - I would look into this, to make sure you could always upgrade to a Wahlro 255lph.

On the topic of studs vs head bolts, I would just run a basic compression/leak down test nad make sure the head gasket is in good condition and leave it. You don't really need ARP studs with low to no boost, if you're pulling the head off completely to replace the head gasket, and have the budget - then I would say spend the extra $100 or so to get the ARP studs.

On a car that small/light 200hp will launch you into the stratosphere! GL with the build, keep us posted with progress.

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Old 10-16-2015, 10:00 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Maybe a GT25 turbo will fit pretty good there, since there is not much space, you should locate a very small housing turbo. A integrated wastegate would be a good option.

ECU must be tuned as mdrouillard1983 said. Stock map sensor measures up to 9-10 psi without any problem.
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Old 10-16-2015, 11:55 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Rods generally snap when power comes in too quickly.
There's loads of 250bhp dailys over here on stock rods. Parts are silly money for D's over here, so people do them as cheap as poss.
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Old 10-16-2015, 01:27 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robgoof View Post
were you planing on using an intercooler?
Yeah I am, but i definitely don't want the intercooler to just be hanging off the front of the car. Im going for a sleeper style build. I want to make it so that you would not be able to tell that there is anything done to this unless you popped the hood or floored it . I have found one setup that I think would work, but im not sure if it would require a hood scoop.
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Is an intercooler completely necessary?
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:55 PM   #20 (permalink)
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The reason I'd go with ARP is simply that it's not big job on a Z6 and you get peace of mind. I'd agree with the posts that say you can forget the rest.

As to the intercooler, I sometimes wonder if a dual rad can't be used. Something like you get when a car has aircon. There's nearly enough space next to the radiator you've installed. Add a bit of airflow direction to the front of the intercooler and it might work?

I don't know that an intercooler is absolutely necessary. The ducting can be a real pain in the limited space you've got and you're not exactly going for silly power for a D-series. Why not give it a go without? If you've any sympathy for what an engine should sound like, you're not likely to break it, are you?

Away from your build, I'm reminded that the Minivan we had with 1380cc gave over 90hp at the wheels. This was enough to out-accelerate most things to, say, 40mph. You'll be astonished what the potential is with only a small boost. Putting it on the ground is another matter!


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