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Old 08-12-2015, 07:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default BOV Loose or normal?

Hey guys, another possible issue I've run into tonight. Just finished installing my turbo piping and I run into an issue with my BOV. It seems loose to me. Is it normal to be able to spin your BOV 360 degrees? I assumed it would be on their rock hard because you wouldn't want leaks. I've searched online and different car forums say some BOV's are meant to do this while others stay solid so I'm not sure what to think.

I found a video on youtube of the exact issue I'm having. Similar BOV and piping. I tightened it as much as I could without stripping something.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VLeCVqLP44

Is it normal to have play so it'll spin?

As always, thanks guys!
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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no it might be thread just tighten it by turning it clockwise
Not a bad idle to add some rtv or something to the threads.
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Old 08-12-2015, 08:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8killaz View Post
no it might be thread just tighten it by turning it clockwise
Not a bad idle to add some rtv or something to the threads.
Thanks for the reply!

Hmmm I was thinking of rtv sealant too. I don't think it's an issue with the BOV as much as it's the flange on the actual pipe. The flange actually spins 360 degrees with no BOV on it nad it has a gasket in there to allow this movement. Tomorrow when I get home from work I'm going to post some pics of it with the BOV off and show you guys so you see what I'm dealing with.

I was considering buying a new BOV tonight but thinking about it when I took it apart, like I said, I think it's the actual flange that spins, not the BOV so it would be pointless. The other option would be cutting the pipe and buying one of those inserts with the solid flange pipes and a couple couplings. Or bother one of my friends again to weld something for me which I hate doing lol. I already need to do some major modification to my down pipe to make that work. That's gonna suck lol

My issue is my tuner is a 3.5 hour drive and I really don't want to drive there to find out he can't tune my car cause of something dumb like a leaking BOV lol.
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Old 08-12-2015, 09:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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No.
It should be tight. If its rotating then its losse.
You can add some rtv and see if it leaks.
The flange you now has a lip on the pipe so the flange itself can rotate to the angle you need. But once everything is bolted down it should not move.
I dont really like thise flanges because most of ebay crap that leaks.
Ita best to get a solid flange
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Old 08-13-2015, 03:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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it should not move ,if it is moving there is potential for leaks.
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Old 08-13-2015, 07:15 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Do you really have to crank on it to turn it? I mean, my HKS is only held in there with a snap ring.. it's pretty tight but if I really try I can move it.. it doesn't cause a vacuum or boost leak..

just watched the video.. that things fucked.. beef it up with a teflon washer or two
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Old 08-13-2015, 04:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Is there supposed to be a rubber gasket in there?
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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^^ x2 my hks ssqv sequentail utilizes a rubber o ring about maybe 1.25"-1.5". it will rotate if i put a good amount of pressure onto it due to it being an o ring design but it doesnt leak.

just saw your video but its still hard to see it as a whole. from the looks in the video that seems to be a design similar to how tools hook up to compressor air hose but i could be wrong too as i only have exp with hks ssqv and tial
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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have you tried making your own smoke machine or do you hooka or vape? you can try to plug both sides of piping up and connect a hose into either side and blow some smoke into it. not sure if thatll work on your designed bov but works for detecting leaks.

Also you cant go wrong with a real hks ssqv or tial
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To Double D or not to Double D. That is the question.- presently contemplating this "daydreaming" dual engine all wheel drive build.

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Old 08-13-2015, 06:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrodj View Post
Is there supposed to be a rubber gasket in there?
I believe its a greddy type r or s (rs or whatever the hell)
Either way he has a flange that uses a lip on the pipe to hold the bov flange to it.

There should be a paper gasket there also.


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You could post a pix but i really thing you cannise some rtv and tighten it down and you should be ok. But when in doubt boost test it.
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Are the bolts tightened all the way? That's a weird BOV flange. I have a greddy BOV and my flange is welded directly to the pipe. The flange also has the 2 holes that bolts the BOV on it.

Looks like by tightening the bolts its supposed to sandwich the BOV or something.
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Old 08-13-2015, 10:37 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hey guys, thanks for all your replies. Sorry I was unable to post any pics tonight of my situation. I think most of you have hit the nail on the head though with the o-ring/gasket missing. I was out in the garage trying to hook up my oil feed line to my turbonetics turbo but it's been an f'n nightmare and that's putting it mildly. My buddy has driven down from 4 hours away to help me finish up this build. He's way more experienced than me and even he was cursing up a storm. We had to clock the turbo tonight which was a nightmare. Got the turbonetics turbo clocked and fitting the 90 degree elbow with the restrictor was incredibly insane because everything is so tight together. He finally just ripped the turbo manifold off my engine and is taking it somewhere he can work on it with better tools. My garage isn't exactly pep boys lol. So needless to say I didn't have a lot of time to work on my BOV tonight. He also wasn't happy with my choice of tube sizes for my vacuum lines lol. So I gotta fix all that too.

But back to the BOV, I did have a chance to show him my issue with that and like most of you have said, he doesn't really mess around with BOV's that don't have a flange welded down but he said it looks like it's missing an o-ring? there is a circular channel on the flange where it looks like an o-ring could sit. I find it hard to believe that a o-ring would stiffen up the BOV that much but maybe it would. If all else fails I guess I could RTV sealant the shit out of it lol.

What do you guys think of these things?



That's my other option is to cut the pipe and fit that in or try to get that piece of shit flange grinded off and a stationary flange welded on.

Like why the hell do they even make a rotating flange like that? Who the hell would want that. Just make the frigging thing solid, vacuum lines bend for fuck sakes lol.
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Old 08-13-2015, 10:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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That kinda shows you what I'm dealing with. It's one of those shitty BOV's that I got with the kit I purchased off of a guy who was selling a turbo kit engine forged pistons rods etc. He had a lot of good stuff for the engine like weisco pistons eagle rods arp studs etc but his turbo components weren't the greatest so I've been upgrading those components over the summer. I got a turbonetics turbo to replace the EMUSA one he gave me (anyone want an emusa turbo?) lol.

Uhh I upgraded the injectors too and a few other things. I was hoping to get it on the road before winter and next spring finish upgrading a few of the other components over winter.

But anyway in that pic you can kinda see how I have literally no clearance in between my turbo manifold and turbo. Sometimes I wonder if it would be easier to just get a ram horn manifold and be done with the f'n thing.

Anyway the BOV you can see has that weird ass spinning flange that kind of floats there. When the BOV is off I can literally spin that flange easily, I've never seen anything like it. Weird.
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Old 08-14-2015, 12:32 AM   #14 (permalink)
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That link you posted is the type of flange that I'm using. Just need to make sure the flange is flat. I had my friend weld it to the existing pipe, so I don't need to use couplers. You can also order a paper gasket for a greddy rs flange.
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Old 08-14-2015, 02:19 AM   #15 (permalink)
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My go autoworks piping for my hks ssqv3 has a screw on flange and it works fine, most likely the play is from not having an oring. What's weird is my bov was loose in my old adapter pipe (like posted above but for ssqv) and it would spin without an oring in but with the oring installed it was a huge pain in the ass to get the c clip under the lip to hold the bov in. When I bought my go autoworks piping I had to remove the oring because it was such a tight fit, I thought I got it in with the oring then boosting down the road my bov popped off because the c clip wasn't actually seated
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Old 08-14-2015, 03:40 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I hate that stupid ssqv oring/c clip design, what a nightmare
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Old 08-14-2015, 05:49 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I hate that stupid ssqv oring/c clip design, what a nightmare
2x
I like something i can put a sealant on the flange and crank down.
I had a ssqv and the snap ring setup was crap IMO. Onces that oring wears down you gotta replace it and dealing with the snap ring is a pain in the ass.

@shep

Just get another flange.
The reason some rotate is because it lets you angle the bov after its been welded to the pipe. If you get a good name brand flange. It will lock into place. But im sure a flange like that would cost more then what you paid for the bov kit itself.
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Old 08-14-2015, 07:46 AM   #18 (permalink)
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My ssqv3 fits so tight in the go autoworks piping that I had to install it without the oring and it was still a bitch. Yes the design is terrible but I love the way they sound, I'm running 7psi just fine without that oring to.
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Old 08-14-2015, 10:08 AM   #19 (permalink)
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The ssqv bov part is actually really clever with the two stage valve, it's a shame the mounting method is so garbage
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Old 08-14-2015, 04:52 PM   #20 (permalink)
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The ssqv bov part is actually really clever with the two stage valve, it's a shame the mounting method is so garbage
Explain this 2 stage valve?

I had one well an ebay knock off. It was just a pull type valve. It use boost pressure to seal it while under boost, then pulled back to open and release the air.
Is there something else im missing?


And i run a greddy FV (floating valve). It has dual springs. One for normal use and one for the valve to stay fully close at idle.
It blows off nice and smooth even at 1 psi and havent had any leaks from it.
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