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Old 01-22-2012, 07:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Block guard?

I sent my z6 to get the machine work done for my vitrara and fj custom rods. I was talking to the machinist about my plans for the motor. He asked and suggested that I should think about running a block guard since its going to be seeing 15 + psi. From what I been reading you guys are yes and no about running them. I'm just trying to get this motor right the first time while its out of the car.
O my goal is around 300 with my 50 trim and around 400 after I get a bigger turbo probably next year.
Thanks
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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you dont need it.
i ran just over 300 for a year. no issues.
ran 475whp last summer. was tuned without one. eventually i put one in it to stop the sleeves from moving around and breaking the seal. but that was at 28psi.
my 300whp setup was at 20psi and the motor saw up to 26 without one.
dont bother with it.

but if you absolutely want it it will not hurt you. some say it restricts coolant flow. BS IMO. me and a buddy have used them and never had a heating issue.
so you dont NEED it . but you can use it.

15psi isnt shit also. so unless your at alot more boost then that you will be just fine.
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by boostedsohc View Post
you dont need it.
i ran just over 300 for a year. no issues.
ran 475whp last summer. was tuned without one. eventually i put one in it to stop the sleeves from moving around and breaking the seal. but that was at 28psi.
my 300whp setup was at 20psi and the motor saw up to 26 without one.
dont bother with it.

but if you absolutely want it it will not hurt you. some say it restricts coolant flow. BS IMO. me and a buddy have used them and never had a heating issue.
so you dont NEED it . but you can use it.

15psi isnt shit also. so unless your at alot more boost then that you will be just fine.

THis is pretty much all you need to know right here.
im the other guy he talked about above, and had zero issues with the block guard.
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by boostedsohc View Post
you dont need it.
i ran just over 300 for a year. no issues.
ran 475whp last summer. was tuned without one. eventually i put one in it to stop the sleeves from moving around and breaking the seal. but that was at 28psi.
my 300whp setup was at 20psi and the motor saw up to 26 without one.
dont bother with it.

but if you absolutely want it it will not hurt you. some say it restricts coolant flow. BS IMO. me and a buddy have used them and never had a heating issue.
so you dont NEED it . but you can use it.

15psi isnt shit also. so unless your at alot more boost then that you will be just fine.
I was actually reading your build thread about that last night. lol
If I was going to run one, which one did you end up using? Golden eagle or what?
And did you have a machine shop install yours or were you able to do install it in your shop. Cause I never seen how to install one if it need welded in or does it just press in?
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jwright4596 View Post
I was actually reading your build thread about that last night. lol
If I was going to run one, which one did you end up using? Golden eagle or what?
And did you have a machine shop install yours or were you able to do install it in your shop. Cause I never seen how to install one if it need welded in or does it just press in?
i used a GE one.
and they are just press in. they are super tight fit. and i did it myself in the garage while changing the HG.
if you run it i would suggest having your builder put it in and then having the motor built after its in. but i guess since i made it work after the fact you could to.
i did it a very crude way haha. installed it with a hammer and a punch. just made it as even as i could.
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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haha also would you suggest to have it even with the sleeves or a little below them. I also heard and seen them both ways. I heard to set it little below it so some of the coolant can get above it to cool it or something like that.
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by boostedsohc View Post
you dont need it.
i ran just over 300 for a year. no issues.
ran 475whp last summer. was tuned without one. eventually i put one in it to stop the sleeves from moving around and breaking the seal. but that was at 28psi.
my 300whp setup was at 20psi and the motor saw up to 26 without one.
dont bother with it.

but if you absolutely want it it will not hurt you. some say it restricts coolant flow. BS IMO. me and a buddy have used them and never had a heating issue.
so you dont NEED it . but you can use it.

15psi isnt shit also. so unless your at alot more boost then that you will be just fine.
Good stuff. Thank you sir

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Old 01-22-2012, 09:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
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haha also would you suggest to have it even with the sleeves or a little below them. I also heard and seen them both ways. I heard to set it little below it so some of the coolant can get above it to cool it or something like that.
It should be recessed into the sleeve slightly and equally. I used a KMS block guard, and it came with a specification (dont remember off the top of my head) on the instructions on how deep to make it, I think it was close to 3mm.
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377WHP 292Lbs TQ

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Sir, how the eff do you rebuild oil?
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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thanks for the info guys! I just ordered a GE block guard. Cause I'm better safe than sorry with my luck! lol
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:35 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I will run one after I build my high boost setup..
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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yeah I wasn't going to run one til I was reading boostedsohc's build thread last night about how he was having head gasket sealing problems cause of sleeve walk
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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yeah I wasn't going to run one til I was reading boostedsohc's build thread last night about how he was having head gasket sealing problems cause of sleeve walk
I'll put my jdm mad tyt repz on the line when I say boostedsohc and a5hatch know what the fuck they're talking about

*edit* po$t 420
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Last edited by kingyeddi; 01-23-2012 at 05:37 AM. Reason: po$t420yo!! mad tyt
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Old 01-22-2012, 10:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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That's what it looks like from their rep and from what I read on their build threads. Nothing like first hand experience! lol
Thanks again for the quick replies guys much appreciated!
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:25 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I had the same question, going to do a build around 300+whp daily driven like 350miles per week or more and was wondering about the block guard, planning on like 17-21psi daily and like 28psi high boost. So is it best for me to run a block guard also?
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:30 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jwright4596 View Post
That's what it looks like from their rep and from what I read on their build threads. Nothing like first hand experience! lol
Thanks again for the quick replies guys much appreciated!
no prob man. glad me and gabe could help you out.
installing a block gaurd def helped my HG issues. but it did not completely solve them just letting you know. when you get to a higher power lever the only real solution is sleeving the block. but the gaurd most def helps a ton IMO.


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Originally Posted by d16auto View Post
I had the same question, going to do a build around 300+whp daily driven like 350miles per week or more and was wondering about the block guard, planning on like 17-21psi daily and like 28psi high boost. So is it best for me to run a block guard also?
like stated above. you dont need it but it will not hurt to have it.
300whp isnt a ton of whp. but a gaurd may be helpful
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11.01 @ 129mph 1.8 60ft
11.2 @121mph 1.9 60ft missing 4th
1.77 is the best 60ft so far

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Old 01-23-2012, 09:50 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by boostedsohc View Post
no prob man. glad me and gabe could help you out.
installing a block gaurd def helped my HG issues. but it did not completely solve them just letting you know. when you get to a higher power lever the only real solution is sleeving the block. but the gaurd most def helps a ton IMO.




like stated above. you dont need it but it will not hurt to have it.
300whp isnt a ton of whp. but a gaurd may be helpful
ok thanks, any specific brand? supertech or GE?
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:57 AM   #17 (permalink)
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ok thanks, any specific brand? supertech or GE?
ive only used a GE it was good. im sure there all about the same.
i just personaly like GE products
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My boost lag gives your V8 a chance
best times
11.01 @ 129mph 1.8 60ft
11.2 @121mph 1.9 60ft missing 4th
1.77 is the best 60ft so far

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Old 01-23-2012, 01:32 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Good info!

A blockguard isnt gonna make your sleeves handle any more pressure than if it were not there. Your sleeves are a certain thickness of a certain material, so when they reach the breaking point, it will happen with or without the support of a block guard.

However, like boostedsohc stated, it will keep your sleeves from moving and proper seal of the headgasket.

So in short, you dont need one, but if you install one right it wont hurt.
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:24 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Good info!

A blockguard isnt gonna make your sleeves handle any more pressure than if it were not there. Your sleeves are a certain thickness of a certain material, so when they reach the breaking point, it will happen with or without the support of a block guard.

However, like boostedsohc stated, it will keep your sleeves from moving and proper seal of the headgasket.

So in short, you dont need one, but if you install one right it wont hurt.
True true thats why I wasn't going to run one. But if it can prevent HG problems later down the road might as well do it now while I'm putting it together.

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ok thanks, any specific brand? supertech or GE?
I went with GE cause it looks like it would flow coolant better than just holes drilled in the middle.
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