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Old 01-04-2012, 08:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default P&P on 300hp turbo build?

This is my first post on this website. I am currently building a d16y8, this is my first build. Block is complete, ycp pistons, eagle rods, +.20 bore, and block guard. I have a y8 head stripped down and plan on purchasing racing springs, retainers, valves, and going with cam regrind from exo most likely.

Now how beneficial will a stage 2 port and polish from kms be for my application? What sort of gain would I be looking at compared to stock flow?

I am not willing to cut corners as far as reliability is concerned, but this is not a track car and I don't need every last drop of power out of this engine.

I apologize in advance if this has been addressed or if this thread is misplaced
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You dont need an agressive cam to make 300, hell you dont need a cam as all. 400 hp has been done on the stock head quite a few times.

As for the P&P, youre more likely to make it worse than better. I wouldnt port it at all at that power levels. I would clean up the ports but I would not make them physically larger.

Remember, the things that make power NA are not the same things that make power turbocharged. Youre better off building it to spool fast and drive well and just use a little more boost to make the power you want.
Id rather have a car that drives and idles like stock, that takes 18 psi to make 300 hp, than a car that lopes and spools dirt slow just so that it can make 300 hp at 16 psi.

Last edited by Full_Tilt; 01-04-2012 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Gains will be based on how well the head is worked over and how well the setup works together. A good reworked head will simply allow the setup to make power easier and broader. It's a beneficial option on any setup, but not necessarily a necessity on a mild build.
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I made 300hp/265ftlbs on a stock Y8 head with 155k miles



Block guard is a waste of money
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the information, looks like I will definitely be saving the money and skipping the port. As for the cam, I was looking at a stage 1 turbo cam. I want to keep it streetable. And block guard came on my block, I purchased it with all shop work done.
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Most stage 1 turbo cams are not worth the money, either.
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:50 AM   #7 (permalink)
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So you would recomend using stock cam? Or going with stage 2? Considering I am upgrading valve train that shouldn't be a concern besides drivability. And you say MOST stage 1 aren't worth it, so any recommendations for a good cam?
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:55 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Save your money and run a stock head. No need for springs or retainers on a stock cam with stock or near stock rev limit. Spend your money wisely.
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for the financial advice crx but I'm Looking for the powerband Improvements from an aftermarket cam. This isn't a budget build and I don't mind spending the money on springs, retainers, and cam for a better powerband.
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Old 01-05-2012, 12:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sde780 View Post
Block guard is a waste of money
y u sez ^ ??

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaneEK4dr View Post
Thanks for the information, looks like I will definitely be saving the money and skipping the port. As for the cam, I was looking at a stage 1 turbo cam. I want to keep it streetable. And block guard came on my block, I purchased it with all shop work done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 13g-crx View Post
Save your money and run a stock head. No need for springs or retainers on a stock cam with stock or near stock rev limit. Spend your money wisely.
I'm gonna try my luck with stockers+Bisi2.4 clone/272-2 for cheapo statu$

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Originally Posted by ShaneEK4dr View Post
Thanks for the financial advice crx but I'm Looking for the powerband Improvements from an aftermarket cam. This isn't a budget build and I don't mind spending the money on springs, retainers, and cam for a better powerband.
Check out the 272-2 from Delta cams. Its a Bisi 2.4 clone even though Bisi claims its not, but failed to explain why.. Cant beat the price, and John @ Custon Import Heads is an awesome dude to work with!!
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Old 01-05-2012, 01:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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for the cheap right way talk to delta or one of the other cam regrinders and get the cam redone if you want.

for the head, something most people should be able to do is remove the casting flaws in the head, if you already have the tools doesn't cost you a dime
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:14 AM   #12 (permalink)
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y u sez ^ ??
For 300hp just rods and pistons will be more than enough. But hey since it came with your block already just run it
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Old 01-06-2012, 09:08 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm gonna try my luck with stockers+Bisi2.4 clone/272-2 for cheapo statu$
I would advise againt doing that. At least get the bisi springs and use your stock retainers. I'm ordering up the bisi 1.2 non-vtak cam today and im gonna run sprigs on that!
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Old 01-06-2012, 01:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I would advise againt doing that. At least get the bisi springs and use your stock retainers. I'm ordering up the bisi 1.2 non-vtak cam today and im gonna run sprigs on that!
<- condiders whats the worst that could happen.. Pleas share
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Old 01-06-2012, 01:33 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Likely: valve float = loss of power or no gains. possibly bend or even brake valves in extreme situations. Springs arent that expensive.
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:33 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I would advise againt doing that. At least get the bisi springs and use your stock retainers. I'm ordering up the bisi 1.2 non-vtak cam today and im gonna run sprigs on that!
Please dont get the 1.2, or anything from bisi really. get at least a stage 2, colt cams has good stuff. delta is a good company.

and bisi springs arent the only ones in the world. supertech is good shit
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:00 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Delta will beat their price! Lol same cam, better customer service.
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Old 01-07-2012, 06:11 AM   #18 (permalink)
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The Bisi 2.4 cam makes significant midrange and top end power gains. It is not an extreme cam. The Delta 272-2 cam is a clone of it.
https://www.d-series.org/forums/force...-cam-test.html

Don't port the head. You can easily get the power you want without it.

Running a larger cam without springs is a good way to get no power and make piston-to-valve clearance negative.
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Old 01-07-2012, 12:24 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boostincx View Post
I would advise againt doing that. At least get the bisi springs and use your stock retainers. I'm ordering up the bisi 1.2 non-vtak cam today and im gonna run sprigs on that!
ouch thats a total fail! i had one, it was worse than a stock cam! total shit.

if i was trying to hit 300whp id just use a 100% stock head and a t3/t4 garret 50 trim with a .63 AR hotside at the bare minimum. if u need more rpm you can always upgrade but i dont think you will.


ive seen the stock y8 cam and y8 head make 479whp. i tuned it.
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Old 01-07-2012, 01:13 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Well i have already ordered the cam and a cam gear, i read a lot of good stories and a lot of bad stories. I weighed the good with the bad and made a decision. I personally know someone making almost 700whp on a bisi turbo cam, obviously not the 1.2 lol. IF i cant seem to make any extra power on the bisi 1.2 over my stock d16y7 cam i can always swap the stock one back in... but i doubt that will be the case. Anyways its just a hobby so im willing to try out different things to see what works and what doesnt, its all in fun.
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