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Old 01-02-2012, 06:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 350whp d16 bottom end build

I plan on starting my engine build in the next few months.I wanting opinions on my bottom end build plans.

it's a d16z6 block with block guard honed and hot tanked
d16 crank
All acl race bearing and arp bolts
h beam rods
Vitara pistons
Endyne oil pump
Obx oil pan only cause I can't find a moroso
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bh3417 View Post
I plan on starting my engine build in the next few months.I wanting opinions on my bottom end build plans.

it's a d16z6 block with block guard honed and hot tanked
d16 crank
All acl race bearing and arp bolts
h beam rods
Vitara pistons
Endyne oil pump
Obx oil pan only cause I can't find a moroso
pm greg at go-autoworks for a moroso oil pan. OBX is junk!
dont need the block gaurd either!
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bh3417 View Post
I plan on starting my engine build in the next few months.I wanting opinions on my bottom end build plans.

it's a d16z6 block with block guard honed and hot tanked
d16 crank
All acl race bearing and arp bolts
h beam rods
Vitara pistons
Endyne oil pump
Obx oil pan only cause I can't find a moroso
I'd get ARP Head studs too... unless that is what you mean by "arp bolts".
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I would prefer Toga Oil Pump. That is just a personal preference. Also, do you have any power goals set in place?
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Port and shim the stock in if its with in factory spec's.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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dont bother with the block guard, and if you must have it for some unknown reason, fit it before you get the block bored. the GE blockguard is ok.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Piston and rod combo will be good for that. I am shooting for around the same numbers with eagle and vitara. Also what kind of block gaurd is it?
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I would just forget about block guard really. Like Darlin said, just stopping coolant to run through your water jackets...
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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thank on the oil pan
and I'm putting arp studs rod bolts flywheel bolts
I'll go without the block guard then
I'm starting with just the bottom end then I'm gonna build the head this is just my starting point
Thanks for al the info
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I must be out of the loop, what's wrong with the oem pan?
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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it helps keep oil temp down holds more oil already tapped for turbo and I don't have a factory oil pan
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:30 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Lose the aftermarket pan...not needed. Port/shim the OEM one, if within spec. Lose the blockguard. Lose the ARP FW bolts too. With the money you saved here, get a better turbo setup.
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Or put it towards the tuning
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Old 01-06-2012, 04:49 AM   #14 (permalink)
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yeah tuning is key. I finally learned that a couple months ago.
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Old 01-06-2012, 05:46 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Lose the aftermarket pan...not needed. Port/shim the OEM one, if within spec. Lose the blockguard. Lose the ARP FW bolts too. With the money you saved here, get a better turbo setup.
Depends on your application. If it's a drag setup, an aftermarket pan isn't really necessary. For track setups, a y8 (or aftermarket) pan with baffles and cooling fins can be beneficial for keeping oil temps low and preventing starvation under hard cornering.
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:47 PM   #16 (permalink)
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so for street racing and as a DD...the upgraded oil pan is not needed and porting (not shimming) the oil pump is ok for 300whp??? sorry, im a noob and looked at threads for hours and still got confused
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