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Old 01-01-2012, 07:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Dry sump and electric waterpump

Anyone ever tried these with success? Searched and found mentions but no opinions for the sump.
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Old 01-01-2012, 07:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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most classes do not allow dry sumped motors if i remember.
theres no reason to really dry sump our motors.
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Old 01-01-2012, 07:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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arent there oiling issues with long turns?
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Old 01-01-2012, 07:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm not sure about that, but I look into an oil cooler for tracking.
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Old 01-01-2012, 07:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Accusump.

There are precisely 0 people on this forum who have run a dry sump system on a D-series.

I know of a few people who have the balls and brains to run an electric WP setup.
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:37 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I see.
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by The_Acid_Beaver View Post
Accusump.

There are precisely 0 people on this forum who have run a dry sump system on a D-series.

I know of a few people who have the balls and brains to run an electric WP setup.
Simple D has a 3 stage pump, but I don't think he ever used it.
I think I have run across one company that make a d-series dry sump pan, but I don't remember who they were.

found it
http://www.drysump.com/honda.htm
looks like a b-series
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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By the time you spent the money on a dry sump setup you can have a well built engine. The electric water pump now i dont see any real good reason to run them
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:50 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2drz6 View Post
By the time you spent the money on a dry sump setup you can have a well built engine. The electric water pump now i dont see any real good reason to run them
electric water pumps will help cool the car down between sessions when the car is not running, and won't have High Rpm cavitation issues

I was planning to do one on my rx7, the pump kept cavitating and overheating my motor above 7600ish rpm so if i shifted before that no issues
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The sump was a long shot and I knew that. Figured with a elec pump I wouldnt have to let the car run while cooling the turbo down after driving hard then I remembered the fact oil has to flow too so that killed it. I dunno just brain farting things and searching for them like a good noob should.
Do they still sell pre cut flanges to make custom intake manifolds out of?
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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No. Most people cut other manifolds apart and recycle flanges.

My best candidate for that kind of thing are the D15B2 and D16Y7 manifolds, since the simply blow goat nads anyway, and the world is better off without them.
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:52 PM   #12 (permalink)
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U could run the stock water pump, then an auxiliary electric pump for when the engines off. Could probably find one cheap from the junk yard from a European car, some of those have like 3 water pumps on them! Lincoln LS, Cadillac catera, to name a few.
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Old 01-02-2012, 04:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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That sucks I bet I could write up a program and cut them pretty easy. would need a blueprint tho. and thanks for the advice LTB thats a good thought. wonder if the stock pump would still allow water to bypass the impeller or if I would have to bypass it some how.
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Old 01-02-2012, 05:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yes, it will, easily. Have you looked at the pump?
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:14 AM   #15 (permalink)
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No havent gotten the motor apart yet. waiting to buy my house so I have a workshop to tear it down in.
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Old 01-03-2012, 04:30 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Sounds interesting but its useless for non Track Racing..
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Old 01-03-2012, 04:44 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I have used dry sumps, but never on a D. Some very exotic cars and a lot of motorcycles have them stock and some racing classes always use them.

A good system probably costs as much as the average D complete car. It's not that they are not great, it's that they just are not good value for money.

The cost of a custom sump is only a small portion of the cost of a total system.

They give more advantages than just control of surge. They increase power by reduced windage, they pull some vacuum in the sump which reduces oil leaks and reduces oil burning.

Electric water pumps are cheap and easy. They can be inserted into the stock radiator hose and just pump through the stock pump. Just make sure you have the flow direction correct. If you can't remove the belt driven pump, they don't really do much for you. You could convert the stock water pump to an idler and avoid very high rpm cavitation and save a very small amount of power.
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Old 01-03-2012, 05:23 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I knew that the cost was insane so that doesnt break my heart. Shoot I will probably end up rebuilding the engine and putting a cage in a car and driving it to work. so I need to keep it street worthy. but I am still looking at the elec water pump option. I figure that if I can up the flow over stock it might help keep things cool. I may be rusty on my thermodynamics tho.
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:51 AM   #19 (permalink)
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U could put a colder thermostat in, or a better than stock cooling fan. U don't wanna run it too cool then u will get condensation in the crank case.
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:20 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I always thought the main benefit of dry sumps (car apps) was simply being able to mount the engine lower into the chassis for lower center of gravity. I realize it doesn't stop there but for a Civic/D series I don't see the benefit.
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