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Old 12-13-2011, 06:31 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Turbo ID and questions

Hey everyone, I found this turbo my dad had in his backyard and wanted to know of anyone knew what it came from(Mitsubishi truck?) and if it's even worth using(the port that would connect to the manifold looks a bit weird..). I was going to rebuild it but there's no shaft play and the wheel spins freely so I think it just needs to be cleaned up a bit. I'll have some pics of the turbo up in a few minutes. It says TD05 on it but it seems different from the others.






Last edited by CapcomEF9; 12-13-2011 at 01:42 PM. Reason: Added photos
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Awaiting pix. But sounds like a 14b I belive.
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Old 12-13-2011, 09:49 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Remove the housings, clean up anything, and mearsure the exducers and inducers.

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Old 12-13-2011, 01:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Pics are up now. You guys see what I mean with the part that bolts on to the manifold? It's really narrow. So I also wanted to know if it would be any good. And thanks blk92 I'll try that when I get a chance.
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Old 12-13-2011, 02:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yea kinda like a 14b .
Turbo Mitsubishi TC-TD05-3-ME015165

What do u need to know about it?
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Old 12-13-2011, 02:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks yeah that looks like it. Well I was wondering if there is an adapter plate for the turbo and the turbo's limits but now since I know what turbo it is, I can probably figure it out. Thanks again, I'll post back if anything.
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Old 12-13-2011, 03:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Glad I helped. Find out how much a rebuild is first because it maybe cheaper to start with another turbo. the flange looks like a t2 but no telling without taking a ruler to it n finding the flange specs. Also dont know if the downpipe part can be turn, but wores thing is your have to cut n weld one on.

Also if u want post more info on ur ride n goals n we can try to see if this turbo meets them.
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Old 12-13-2011, 05:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Well I was already planning on cutting the downpipe to get a flange welded on to make more room, and I don't think the turbo needs rebuilding but I'm going to inspect it carefully when I get the time. Like I said there isn't any shaft play and the blade spins smooth. Goal is just to have a quicker daily with around 160-190whp stock which should be good enough for me seeing that my B20 only had 141whp and was still fun to drive(then again it was in an EF).But I'm sure this turbo may be what I need. I already looked up some stuff on it and I see it can get to 170whp which is good and it spools fast. The motor will remain stock besides head studs and y8 mani....possibly rods and pistons if I can get a deal on pistons that will fit the b20 rods in a D16y7. So this turbo should get that done. It's just about keeping the ac now lol.
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Old 12-13-2011, 10:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Seems like a good start. Everything should work put for u then. And keep ac isnt to hard just need some custom stuff. Ive build my turbo kit with ac n mind. Also dont forget ur need tune n injectors, etc..
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Old 12-14-2011, 09:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Yeah tuning is a must for reliability, and if I'm lucky I can get some DSMs from my friends gst that he's building. Now I just need to look up a bit more about ls/b20 rods and d series pistons. Thanks again.
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Old 12-14-2011, 11:56 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Man, just look at that turbo inlet bottleneck! LOL
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Old 12-14-2011, 12:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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It is off a small diesel motor. Some diesel turbos will work for Gas motors and some will not. It has to do with material and oil seals.

The TD05 part refers to turbine size. This is the smallest TD05 turbine they make. Most likely it is something very small like a 12B or the like. With that turbine housing it would spool by sneezing on it.

Look for some numbers like 12A, 12B, 14G, 13T and then look for a set of numbers like 6cm2 or 5cm2. That will tell you more about then anything else. Or if you remove the housing meaure the compressor itself and post those numbers.

I sent you a PM as well.

I am pretty sure it is a 12B though.
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Old 12-14-2011, 12:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Oh and if you are wondering why it has a Garrett turbine flange instead of a Mitsubishi it is because the manufacturer that used the turbo used a Garrett turbo with the model prior. Mitsubishi will provide a T25 or T3 flange so the manufacturer does not have to adapt to a Mitsubishi flange and it keeps their cost down as they do not have to design a new turbo manifold.
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Old 12-14-2011, 12:59 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Lol yeah it's a free turbo though, so I'll make the best of it lol. Another thing I was actually thinking of - wouldn't I be able to swap the housings of the turbo?
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Old 12-14-2011, 01:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You can swap but I would identify what you have first. You may get lucky. It will also depend on what your goals are. Can't use a turbo that flows 20lb min and make 300hp.

Other issues is that what you swap for must match what you have. Can't use aTD05H housing on a TD05 turbine. Having said that the TD05 is a rare turbo. Most are TD05H. Another issue is good used mhi housings are hard to come by. New housings are expensive. Actually the most expensive part of a turbo. It could cost more to upgrade then by a NEW turbo.

What are your goals?
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Old 12-14-2011, 01:47 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapcomEF9 View Post
Lol yeah it's a free turbo though, so I'll make the best of it lol. Another thing I was actually thinking of - wouldn't I be able to swap the housings of the turbo?
Maybe but when you start doing all that it might just be cheaper to get a used dsm t25 rebuild it and use it. Better choices of flanges and its been done before so there is alot of information out there for what they will output. Which is right within your goals. I once brought a dsm t25 for $30. Owner said it just started smoking and it didnt have an y shaft play. But i ended up selling it before i used it so that i can redo my setup with a s20 t25 which is a little bit bigger.

Just because that turbo was free doesnt always mean it will be cheaper to work with in the end.
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Old 12-14-2011, 02:22 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Honestly I would get a different turbo. Like xile6 was saying a good t25 or 14b would be similar setup, but proven. They would also give you a lot more power potential. When I did my build the turbo was just about the least expensive part that I bought, so its not like you're very invested in that turbo. Plus you can probably find one of the above listed in usable shape for less than the cost of a good rebuild. (good meaning a rebalance included not just replacing parts)
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Old 12-14-2011, 05:09 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The thing is you still do not know what it is. I can tell you right now it is not a 14B though. I am still thinking you have a 10A, 12A, or 12B. You really need to ID what you have before doing anything with it.

As I stated some Diesel turbos can NOT be used for Gas setups. They use lower grade materials in the turbine head because they are low pressure low boost setups. This material will not support the added stress that comes with higher psi levels.

Also I keep hearing you guy say no shaft play. This could not be more WRONG. All turbos have shaft play. They have a certain standard for each model like a T3 is .0015" inside and .0035" outside bearing or .0050" per bearing. It is done this way so once the turbine heat soaks, which it will it expands and makes this clearance even less. Also the journal bearing expands as well and will tighten this clearance up. The Diesel turbos that are low flow have completely different spec for the bearing tolerance. If you try to adapt one for a gas application it will smoke the bearings in a matter of minutes once it reaches operating temps.

All turbos have bearing play and shaft play. 99% of the time if you can feel it then the turbo has too much play. Hell a lot of time what peole assume is no shaft play is out of spec as well. The spec is less then the thickness of a sheet of printer paper. If the housing has oil in it then it will feel like it has no play as it compensates for some of the spec. A common mistake that people make is fiddling with the compressor end. They do not realize the stub shaft is so tiny they are easy to bend with just your fingers.
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Old 12-14-2011, 05:15 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Oh yeah of course I would do the research first for costs but if it's a diesel and it "might" work I don't wanna mess with it at that point. I'm going to check my friend with the gst because I think he upgraded his turbo so I could still be in luck. Thanks everyone I'll get you guys reps when I'm at a computer. IPhone won't let me do it lol. I'll update later with what's up.
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Old 12-14-2011, 05:21 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The thing is you still do not know what it is. I can tell you right now it is not a 14B though. I am still thinking you have a 10A, 12A, or 12B. You really need to ID what you have before doing anything with it.

As I stated some Diesel turbos can NOT be used for Gas setups. They use lower grade materials in the turbine head because they are low pressure low boost setups. This material will not support the added stress that comes with higher psi levels.

Also I keep hearing you guy say no shaft play. This could not be more WRONG. All turbos have shaft play. They have a certain standard for each model like a T3 is .0015" inside and .0035" outside bearing or .0050" per bearing. It is done this way so once the turbine heat soaks, which it will it expands and makes this clearance even less. Also the journal bearing expands as well and will tighten this clearance up. The Diesel turbos that are low flow have completely different spec for the bearing tolerance. If you try to adapt one for a gas application it will smoke the bearings in a matter of minutes once it reaches operating temps.

All turbos have bearing play and shaft play. 99% of the time if you can feel it then the turbo has too much play. Hell a lot of time what peole assume is no shaft play is out of spec as well. The spec is less then the thickness of a sheet of printer paper. If the housing has oil in it then it will feel like it has no play as it compensates for some of the spec. A common mistake that people make is fiddling with the compressor end. They do not realize the stub shaft is so tiny they are easy to bend with just your fingers.
Yeah I think most people know that turbos have slight shaft play, I think it's like how people call ED6 civics EFs or whatever. But yeah I'm going to just leave it alone and try to see if my buddy still has his GST turbo.
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