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Old 05-21-2011, 05:07 AM   #1 (permalink)
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ok so ive built a few nitrous cars, so i thought id give a turbo car a try.. the car is a 2000 civic ex with the y8, had 160,000 miles, ran perfect n/a got 38mpg etc..yesterday i finish putting the kit on only to find out as soon as i boost it starts pushing coolent out the overflow.. im only running 6psi, and the afr is between 11.5-12 in boost.. i took 1deg out per psi, ive read around its looking like alot are saying headlift but i was wondering what else i could try first, the guy said he put a thermostat in it a few months before i for it, and both hoses are hot, and have pressure.. any thoughts
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Old 05-21-2011, 05:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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oil is good, my setup is a cast manifold, .48/.50 turbo, type s bov, tial 38mm, egay front mount, tuned on crome, 255 walbro, fuel pressure regulator, koyo radiator
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Old 05-21-2011, 05:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Can you datalog? Find out the coolant temps while in and out of boost and compair. Sounds like head lift tho. Does it run find while out of boost? Over heat any?
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Old 05-21-2011, 05:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
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i havent put datalogging on this ecu yet, i was planning on seeing how i liked it then doing a vitara build with s300..it runs fine in and out of boost it just pushs coolant under boost

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Can you datalog? Find out the coolant temps while in and out of boost and compair. Sounds like head lift tho. Does it run find while out of boost? Over heat any?
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:25 AM   #5 (permalink)
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blown headgasket...like this
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:31 AM   #6 (permalink)
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well looks like im going to build my spare z6, it just kills me becasue the first time i took it out tune was perfect, and i did 2 2nd gear pulls stopped to check everything and it was already spraying coolant.. ive had buddys run 10psi on older d16s with no problems, and i actually had a solid smooth running motor and this happens
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:03 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Try pulling more timing.

If the compression is good, it runs fine out of boost, and isn't mixing, the headgasket isn't "blown"... Yet. If you continue boosting and pushing coolant through it, yeah it will blow pretty quickly.
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:21 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Had the same issue with a fully built sleeved block so I took it out went to a vitara build back up block and no issues at all 17 psi daily driver no blockguard. It sux cause I hear something different every time on what can be causing this issue. G/l
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:35 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Just wanna point out that usually around 150K is when Honda HG begin to go, and it might not have been changed yet. It probably is slight headlift combined with an old HG is causing that. Also, the AFR is a little rich at only 6 psi.
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:36 AM   #10 (permalink)
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the only reason the cooling system is going to be have excessive pressure is overheating or blown headgasket, if its completely sealed it wont push out coolant or at least any significant amount
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:59 AM   #11 (permalink)
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stock headbolts? but i would pull the head replace the gasket and put some arps on there to be safe
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Old 05-21-2011, 09:14 AM   #12 (permalink)
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did a compression test all were 190-200psi.. reved it up sitting in the driveway under the hood and it came out of the overflow higher up in the rpms.. yes stock head studs and gasket.. i pulled 2 degress everywhere in boost after my 1degree per psi and it still did it.. i really didnt mean to say real rich, its 11.6-12... to be on the cheap side im going to put another thermostat in, and put my stock radiator in with a new cap since i cant find one around here to fit my koyo
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Old 05-21-2011, 09:25 AM   #13 (permalink)
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post a screen shot of your low and high cam ignition maps.

problem with saying i pulled x amount of timing per psi is that those numbers are based on your vacuum cells, and without knowing that knowing how much you pulled in boost means nothing.

i'd bet you are around 17-20 at 10psi in your maps and 24 or higher at 6psi.....

once the head lifts once its time for new head bolts (if using stock bolts) and a new gasket. if your using head studs then just swap the gasket. anytime coolant pushes past the gasket it wont seal correctly again....

what engine management are you using?
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Old 05-21-2011, 09:35 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I'd throw some arp head bolts in there too. better to be safe than...... well where you are right now.
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Old 05-21-2011, 09:37 AM   #15 (permalink)
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hope this works not shure on how to post a screen shot
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Old 05-21-2011, 10:20 AM   #16 (permalink)
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It's a y8 head. Try pulling more timing across the map. Is your low cam map rich enough?
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Old 05-21-2011, 12:23 PM   #17 (permalink)
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yep fuel is good everywhere.. ill give that a try i got the dizzy fully retared as well... looks like ill be ordering some arps, and a honda head gasket... how often dose a head warp when its been lifted
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Old 05-21-2011, 12:24 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiledwhitecivic View Post
It's a y8 head. Try pulling a couple * more. I think your timing map looks ok for 92 octane. Is your low cam map rich enough?
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I had a y7 on a map that had 16* and one with 21* ignition in idle. It always ran on the hot side and seemed to lag a little, was smooth but felt like something was missing. I switch it to 12* and it ran fine and had great power and mpg.

Running 16* on your map throws the map off by about 4* so your not taking out as much timing as you believe.

please people dont start a y8 timing war. Im just posting what i been through.

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yep fuel is good everywhere.. ill give that a try i got the dizzy fully retared as well... looks like ill be ordering some arps, and a honda head gasket... how often dose a head warp when its been lifted
not sure but i drove on a blown head gasket for about 30miles till i lost all coolant and the motor stop. Put a another head gasket in and the car ran ok. Cylinder 2 had low compression and valve were burnt, but but the head didnt warp

Got that car for cheap and was already looking for a motor before i picked up the car jsut didnt want to tow it
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Old 05-21-2011, 01:56 PM   #19 (permalink)
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what exactely do you mean running 16* on my map throws it off by 4*?

[QUOTE=xile6;2319112]2x
I had a y7 on a map that had 16* and one with 21* ignition in idle. It always ran on the hot side and seemed to lag a little, was smooth but felt like something was missing. I switch it to 12* and it ran fine and had great power and mpg.

Running 16* on your map throws the map off by about 4* so your not taking out as much timing as you believe.

please people dont start a y8 timing war. Im just posting what i been through.
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Old 05-21-2011, 01:59 PM   #20 (permalink)
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the obd2 timing is 12* vs. the obd1 engines which were 16*
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